Goa

It seemed a good idea to finish with some chill time at a luxury resort on a beautiful beach, but by lunchtime we'd confirmed what we knew all along – we are not beach people. What on earth do people do on a beach all day?

We'd walked to the shops, bought some post cards, walked along the whole length of the beach, taken several photos, watched other tourists strut their somewhat ample bodies around in rather skimpy swimwear (and not just on the beach, also in the restaurants, shops and along the road, which to me is totally inappropriate in a conservative country like India), we'd had a beer and some snacks, written all said post cards, and it was still only lunchtime. Back to the luxury of our tent, the most comfortable bed we've ever had in India, and an afternoon siesta.

My legs are in a bit of a state, covered in bruises from the rafting and bites from my own stupidity (not putting insect repellent on until it was too late at sunset last night), and they are now itching like mad.

In the afternoon we met up with Madesh (our very cute driver) quite by accident, and for the first time since he picked us up at Bangalore Airport some ten days ago, we actually had a (sort of) conversation with him. Up until now, most of his conversation has been limited to 'yes maam', but today he was very chatty. His English is extremely limited and pronunciation leaves a lot to be desired (still way better than my Hindi!), but we managed to ascertain that he is 25 years old (a mere babe in arms, but an extremely good driver for his age) and got married to his sweetheart two months ago who he'd known for five years and been in love with for four. He proudly showed us her photo, and she was suitably attractive.

Amarya Shamiyana is located next to the reputed best French restaurant in Goa, but unfortunately it was still closed last night (it is right at the start of the season here in Goa). We were told this morning, however, that it would be open tonight, so we immediately got the hotel to book us a table. I did feel rather special when we walked in to the restaurant (which was completely full by 20:00) to be greeted by the manageress: “Grete yes?” Fame at last!

The food lived up to my expectations, the rare tuna in sesame seeds and soy sauce with wasabi mash was to die for, but the crowning glory was the dessert. I have never seen anything like it! Named 'Chocolate Thali', it was a typical Indian thali style metal plate with several small bowls containing a selection of no less than nine different chocolate desserts: chocolate mousse, hot chocolate fondant, chocolate crisps, white chocolate soup, a creamy chocolate drink, chocolate cake, chocolate covered almonds, chocolate ice cream and chocolate covered strawberries. Talk about chocolate overload! I'd had a craving for chocolate for a few days, and I've certainly satisfied that craving for months to come!