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Delhi - Jabalpur - Bhedaghat - Kanha

Don't rock the boat

View Tiger, Tiger, Burning Bright - India 2017 on Grete Howard's travel map.

The jetlag continues to blight me this morning as I lie awake from 02:30 onwards.

Flight from Delhi to Jabalpur

At Delhi Domestic Airport we are approach by a uniformed official as we queue to check in. “Would you be interested in an upgrade?” At 700Rs per person (less than £10), we gladly accept. It includes extra legroom and free food, as well as priority baggage. It doesn't stop us from having to pay excess baggage fees for being over the 15kg limit for checked in bags, however.

Waiting at Delhi Airport

The choices for food on board are not great – sandwich or pot noodle (or rather pot lentil).


It's a quick flight and soon we are met at Jabalpur Airport by Rakesh, our driver for the next few days. He takes us directly to a fancy hotel for use of the facilities and where his boss (I assume) talks to us about our itinerary; about which there seems to be some confusion. Rakesh does not speak any English, just a simple few words, and my Hindi is no better.

Jabalpur from the air

Fire engine at Jabalpur airport

Baggage trolley at Jabalpur airport

Marble Rocks

Before heading to Kanha National Park for our tiger safari, we want to make a detour to Bhedaghat.

The small town is famous for two things: Dhuhandhar Falls, and Marble Rocks. After climbing down a number of steps, we reach the river's edge where we board a covered boat for our trip into the steep-sided gorge where the aforementioned marble rocks can be admired.



As the boat moves upstream, the Narmada River flows through a narrow gorge flanked either side by steeply rising cliffs in various colours, from dazzling white to pale yellow and from a pinkish hue to different shades of green.




Indian Cormorant




White Browed Wagtail


Red Wattled Lapwing

Jumping boys
For 50Rs, young buys jump off the cliffs into the water below.



The Journey to Kanha

The steps back up to the town and car again seem steep and we are all feeling the heat. The car, thankfully, is beautifully air-conditioned as we make our way towards our home for the next three nights: Kanha National Park. At this stage we realise that we will unfortunately not have time to stop at the waterfalls, as we still have a 4½ hour journey ahead of us.

One step up from a zebra crossing - a horse crossing

Overloaded bicycle


Judging by the number of people we see along the road carrying hay, I would say it is harvest time at the moment.





We go through some rural and agricultural communities, with the odd long-distance truck on the road.






Once the sun goes down, we realise we are not going to reach the lodge in the light.


Indian roads can be quite intimidating for the first time visitor, and even more so after dark. Lyn describes the experience as “Wacky Races on Speed”.

Kipling Camp

Our arrival at Kipling Camp is exceptionally welcoming. As we pull up in the dark, a whole welcoming committee appear with torches and wet flannels to wipe away the dirt from the journey. Astrid shows us around the main facilities of the camp – the Shamiana, an open sided terrace with comfortable seating as well as a bar and dining area; while the two volunteers, Alex and Franco, take the luggage to our rooms.



As we relax with a drink, Ahmed, the friendly chef, brings round the tastiest pakoras I have ever eaten, followed by cream of vegetable soup in little cups. Dinner is buffet style, with chicken curry, cabbage, potato with capsicum and dhal, followed by a tasty sweet treat (banana fritters if I remember rightly).



After dinner we continue our friendly chats with the staff: Astrid, the manager, the two young boys, Alex and Franco, who are here as volunteers and show a maturity way beyond their years, and Jeswin, the naturalist. We are the only people staying tonight, and by the end of the evening, we feel very much part of the Kipling family. What a fabulous place!


Our Room
Our room is in a single-storey cottage set in the lovely grounds, shaded by tall trees; and with a path leading to it, lit by intelligent solar lamps that glow dimly and 'magically' light up brightly as we approach.

Our cottage in the middle.

Our room is on the far right of the cottage

We have a balcony with seating, and the interior consists of a four-poster bed with mosquito netting, ample storage space and a generously sized bathroom.

The terrace in front of our room


My only 'complaint' is that the bed is rather high, making it impossible to sit on the edge of the bed to get undressed


I know we will enjoy our stay here very much, and I go to sleep a very happy and contented bunny.

Posted by Grete Howard 01:18 Archived in India Tagged boat canyon india cows harvest boat_trip jabalpur kipling_camp bhedaghat marble_rocks rowing_boat harvest_time khana

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That gorge is beautiful and I love your photo of the fisherman there, as well as all the pictures taken on the road. And what a lovely place to stay!

by ToonSarah

Superb photography!


The gorge looks amazing and you captured it beautifully. It looks like a great choice of places to spend a few nights.

by kbrus

Found your blog through the Kipling Camp link. Hope you enjoy your stay, we had the most magical time there. Great blog and wonderful photography - so much so I'm tempted to look at flights again...!

by Benoculars

Thank you all for your kind comments.

by Grete Howard

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