Kanha National Park Part II - Suri Zone

When we arrive back at Kipling Camp after our morning safari drive, we are greeted with the very welcome wet flannels (a custom I like very much – here in India it happens after every game drive and is very much a necessity because of all the dust. In Africa, despite the same amount of dirt generated, the flannels are generally just offered on your very first arrival at a lodge, not usually thereafter)

Tara

One of the main reasons I chose Kipling Camp when I was in the planning stages of this trip, was Tara, the resident elephant. Featured in the book Travels on my Elephant by Mark Shand, Tara was gifted to Kipling Camp in 1989 (you can read the full story of how Tara came to live at Kipling Camp here)

Lunch

A lunch table is laid out in the shady courtyard under the trees, and we have a refreshing nimbu soda (fresh lime soda) while we wait for the food to arrive.

Lamb curry, okra, chillies, dhal, yogurt, chutney, poppadom and puri

All around the grounds there are signs of wildlife, from butterflies to frogs and birds.

Greater Coucal

Orange Headed Ground Thrush

Afternoon Game Drive

This afternoon we have been allocated the Suri Zone of Kanha National Park and we head off to see what this area has to offer.

King Vulture, a very rare bird and a first for us

Hanuman langurs

Sambar Deer

Porcupine
There is much excitement when a porcupine is spotted; it's an extremely unusual rare sighting indeed and a first for us. Absolutely rubbish photo, as by the time I'd turned and pointed my camera, he was well on his way into the undergrowth. But trust me: this reallys is a porcupine.

Jungle Owlet

Gaur (Indian Bison) - the laregst wild cow in the world

Jackals

Hanuman Langur

This guy is also a new one to us: Lesser Adjutant

And then he was gone

Indian Roller

Cheetal with a Black Drongo passenger

Cheetal with a Common Myna on its back

Cheetal

Barashinga
This particular genus of Barashinga, the Southern Swamp Deer, is only found here in Kanha National park, so it is obviously our first sighting in the wild, thus generating considerable excitement.

We ford the river in a beautifully serene area, where we also spot a Common Kingfisher.

Common Kingfisher

Bees Nest
The action of the bees moving in unison on this nest reminds me of a Mexican Wave.

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Barashinga in the water
As the sun becomes lower in the sky, we spot a small herd of barashinga in the water. As we stop they look up and across at us, water dripping from their heads, backlit by the evening sun. Another magical moment.

More animals backlit by the low sun, this time cheetal

More barashinga

The last rays of the sun are seeping through the trees.

Rose Ringed Parakeet

Sambar
The light is faded fast and it is getting dark quickly.

Tiger
As we make our way back towards the exit gate to leave the park for the evening, I comment to Lyn that as we haven't seen a tiger, at least we don't have to tip the guide quite as much this afternoon. Then we turn a corner and see a number of vehicles all looking into the bushes.

Just as we pull up alongside them, we spot a tiger disappearing into the undergrowth. Wow! It is brief, but at least I manage to shoot off a couple of frames.

“Hold on!” shouts Rahim, as he reverses the Gypsy at great speed, around sharp bends, on a badly potholed road, uphill; with some of the most admirable driving skills I have ever been party to. Experience and knowledge means he knows exactly where the tiger will be coming out of the bushes.

And he is right, of course. Again.

Great excitement ensues as we are joined by the other vehicles (whose drivers were not as on-the-ball, or maybe not as capable, as Rahim, and thus much slower off the mark), to watch the tiger saunter down the road.

It is getting quite dark now and I am having to push my ISO right up to 8,000 in order to get a decent shot.

ISO 10,000 now, despite Rahim having moved the vehicle nearer the tiger for a closer shot.

ISO 16,000 - gotta love the Canon 5D IV's low light capabilities!

Sadly we have to say “goodbye” to our new-found friend, as we have a deadline time to be out of the gate.

There is now a mad rush to get to the gate so as not to be fined for overstaying our welcome.

It's impossible to avoid the dust generated by the other vehicles.

We do make a couple of stops though, one for a Sambar crossing the road...

… and some wild boar.

Including some little baby piglets.

We make it out of the park without penalty and return to the lodge for a shower, change, drink and dinner.

What an amazing day we've had!