A Travellerspoint blog

Cristalino - birds and butterflies

Our last full day in the Amazon


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

Another early start today, up at 05:00, breakfast at 06:00, and leave at 06:30.

There is a mist hanging over the river this morning, creating an ethereal scene.

large_071032c0-1709-11ed-8b22-136b12fafdc0.jpg

large_165831c0-174e-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg
Black Fronted Nunbird

Long Nosed Bats
They are so incredibly well camouflaged, as they try their best to hide from the Bat Falcon.

large_165c2960-174e-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg

large_a25e9970-174e-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg

large_16f8de90-174e-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg
Sunbittern

large_a1a3d4f0-174e-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg
Striated Heron

large_17016a10-174e-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg
Greater Ani

large_1744b4a0-174e-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg
White Tipped Dove

large_1690cdf0-174e-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg
Saffron Playboy Butterfly

large_17b88510-174e-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg
Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_a18b43e0-174e-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg
Plumbeous Kite

large_a19a5f10-174e-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg
Capped Heron

Centipede
I love the way the pattern creates a false set of eyes on his rear end, and that he looks like a series of glass beads joined together.

large_c2f8da10-174e-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg

large_dd226460-174e-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg
White Throated Toucan

Rapids
We return to the same area we visited yesterday, as the moving water often attracts birds.

large_ddf767a0-174e-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg


large_dd8b5f60-174e-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg
Red Throated Piping Guan

large_dd36d6c0-174e-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg

White Banded Swallows

large_36c21e20-174f-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg

large_3640b920-174f-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg

large_369dcd40-174f-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg

large_36c6d910-174f-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg
Bearded Turtle

We are not the only ones from the lodge out and about on the water today.

large_36b266b0-174f-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg
Bird Watchers

large_372f85f0-174f-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg
A boat waiting for the trekkers to return

White Winged Swallow
I am still chasing these little birds around trying to catch one flying – I have some success, but still not completely happy.

large_8e39c7c0-174f-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg

large_8e589a60-174f-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg

large_8e30c710-174f-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg

large_8e222110-174f-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg
Scarlet Macaws

large_8e3b0040-174f-11ed-b5e8-ada71a96a947.jpg
Red Throated Piping Guan

large_8e8ec590-174f-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg
Ruddy Ground Dove

Reflections
From the rapids we enter an area where the water is completely still, creating perfect reflections.

large_2f8d4290-1751-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg

large_fd5206e0-174f-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg

large_ebd31d50-174f-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg
Amazon Kingfisher

large_ebf52440-174f-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg
Snowy Egret

large_ebaaadc0-174f-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg
Olive Oropendula

Cristalino Lodge
The usual taxi (luggage truck) is waiting for me at the top of the steps to take me to the room when we get back from our morning's boat safari.

large_ec626500-174f-11ed-8866-9fc701354bf6.jpg

Butterflies
On our way to the lodge when we arrived on the very first day, I saw a number of butterflies on a rock near the lodge, and I asked Gui if we could go back and take a closer look. They are more active in the middle of the day, so we go out at 11:45 to see if they are there.

large_2f2d2130-1751-11ed-b7dd-45bd56d02fda.jpg

There are literally thousands of them, and they rarely stay still for more than a second, flittering about left to right, right to left.

large_19ad21c0-1751-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg

large_09b46300-1751-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg

large_198d3db0-1751-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg

It is like being in the middle of a living, breathing, confetti shower.

large_0a1b6230-1751-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg

large_19da9a60-1751-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg

I spend over an hour photographing these mesmerising butterflies, with lots of exclamations of “wow” and “isn't this amazing”. The experience is like nothing we have ever known before.

large_2f69dc10-1751-11ed-b7dd-45bd56d02fda.jpg
We have a photobomber

large_229fa0f0-1751-11ed-b7dd-45bd56d02fda.jpg
Not one, not two, but three photobombers

large_22013e10-1751-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg

large_21c2fc90-1751-11ed-ab5b-518d6eac6a70.jpg

large_21c06480-1751-11ed-95c6-bfd94a03c5dc.jpg

My taxi takes me directly to the restaurant this lunchtime, via the staff quarters (the truck can't drive the pedestrian path as there are too many tree roots along the way).

Lunch
I try and remember what I ordered last night (you pre-order the food for the next meal at the previous one). I photographed the items on the menu, but the starter bears little resemblance to what I receive. Whatever it is, it is very enjoyable.

large_57ded860-1753-11ed-830f-cfa24fb90e14.jpg

The main course is a Micaela-style tenderloin stew with parsnip chips and country-style corn meal.

large_57e56810-1753-11ed-9c96-039ae21d88f6.jpg

Dessert is something called Cupuaçu, a traditional dish of fruit pudding with crunchy Brazil nuts

large_57dbcb20-1753-11ed-9735-4552f8d2313d.jpg

I spend some time trying some gentle exercises for my knee, as it is feeling very much better today. The rest of the afternoon is spent chilling in the room with the fan on before confidently walking the ¼ mile path through the jungle to reach the restaurant for dinner, without the use of my knee braces.

Dinner
Everything seems a bit of a shambles this evening, and while the service is friendly and helpful, it is a little hit and miss and at times rather slow.

After sitting down at our usual table, we ask the waitress for a jug of water. When after a while it has not arrived, we ask another of the waiting staff. Some time later, the maître d' comes over and asks if everything is OK. We mention the missing water, and he goes off to chase it. Soon after someone arrives with two jugs, immediately followed by two other people carrying three jugs between them. We now have five jugs of water, although they do take four of them away, thankfully, otherwise, I'd be up every half an hour throughout the night.

large_ab6b2c20-1755-11ed-9367-5351e51bb81a.jpg
Courgette hash with poached egg

large_ab7b58c0-1755-11ed-bb6f-afe71945984c.jpg
Cristalino steak - so tender and tasty

large_Pudding.jpg
Coconut pudding - delicious!

So much for the confidence earlier – walking back to the room, my knee is suffering big time. Full of disappointment and frustration, I take some painkillers before bed.

Goodnight from the Amazon, and thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip for us.

large_d4fc0aa0-1755-11ed-bb6f-afe71945984c.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 21:43 Archived in Brazil Tagged reflections wildlife river bird safari brazil lunch mist birding brasil amazon toucan south_america bats butterflies heron egret dove rapids guan ani boat_trip centipede boat_safari undiscovered_destinations swallow early_morning_mist wildlife_photography river_safari painful_knee cristalino sunbittern nunbird cristalino_lodge bird-watching centiped oropendula painkillers

Email this entryFacebookStumbleUpon

Table of contents

Be the first to comment on this entry.

Comment with:

Comments left using a name and email address are moderated by the blog owner before showing.

Required
Not published. Required
Leave this field empty

Characters remaining: