Chimwenya - Zomba - Liwonde

I damaged my sacroiliac joint a few days ago on the very first bump we went over on the very first game drive on this trip, and last night icied it with ice from the bar and self-massaged it with a wooden ball (as suggested by my chiropractor who I have been messaging). Despite this, everything I do seems to hurt this morning: getting out of bed, getting dressed, coughing, blowing my nose, walking, going to the toilet. I dose myself up with painkillers and hope it will ease as the day goes on.

Breakfast

My fried eggs on toast

David's Full English Breakfast

David riding a wooden hippo in the reception of Game Haven Lodge. As you do.

Moving on

Today we are driving from Chimwenya to Liwonde, giving me ample opportunities for my usual drive-by-shooting (taking photos from a moving car)

Who needs the latest iPad when you can have a motorcycle tyre!

Carrying firewood

Animal fodder

At the well

We stop to photograph this woman pumping water at the well, and Jim, always the gentleman, pops out of the car to help her.

Jim explains that the blue container attached to the pump is for chlorine which the government has provided to help prevent the spread of cholera.

The lady now has a two-kilometre walk back to her home, carrying the heavy bucket on her head.

Papaya Tree

The trees are gender specific, and this is a male tree. It carries flowers but no fruit and needs the help of bees to pollinate a female papaya tree.

The tree has another use, however, as infertile couples make a drink from its roots in order to help them conceive.

Pottery for sale

Zomba

Until 1975, Zomba was the capital of Malawi, and it still holds vestiges of grandeur as well as remnants of the British Colonial past.

The War Memorial to those who died during the First and Second World War

Botanical Gardens

Jim tells me just that little bit too late not to take photos of the entrance to the Presidential palace - fortunately no one noticed and I put the camera away after this shot.

Zomba Market

We wander up and down the various alleys of this colourful market.

Chillies

Papaya

Catfish

Bananas covered with leaves to help them ripen

Tangerines

Passionfruit

Metal workers

Jim buys this hammer, which is made from a wheel stud from a truck! I love the resourcefulness.

The people are quite happy to be photographed

The lemons are enormous!

Soursop

Photography Bean Bag

Jim purchases some thick green material to have a bean bag made for me to use in the safari vehicle to support my 600mm lens.

He takes the material to a tailor to sew it all together, then to another stall to fill it with rice.

The Baobabs Restaurant

For lunch, we stop at a small roadside restaurant specialising in African food.

The restaurant is open-sided, and just as I have ordered a plate of Chicken Braai (BBQ chicken), I am dismayed to see my lunch trying to sneak out of the restaurant.

Jim persuades us to try a couple of different canned drinks that are popular with locals: Cherry Plum and Cocopina. They are both very refreshing and make a pleasant change from the usual Coke or Lemonade.

Chicken Braai with a delicious side of sautéed mustard leaves

Today is Joyce, Jim’s wife’s birthday, so he calls her while we are at the restaurant, and we all sing “Happy Birthday” to her on the phone.

Liwonde National Park

It’s the usual procedure to check us in at the entrance gate to the park.

There was some doubt about whether we’d be able to enter the park through the eastern gate, as the road has been affected by flooding recently. Jim checked with the camp last night to make sure – otherwise it would be a very long diversion if we had to drive down to the southern gate.

Although we do some game viewing on the way to the lodge, Jim’s vehicle is not really suitable for safari driving, with its tinted windows (which do open, of course, but are not easy to lean out of), and windscreen that distorts images takes straight ahead.

Brown Hooded Kingfisher

Hammerkop

The very striking Python Vine, which curls itself around other trees. There is no evidence it causes the host tree any harm, apparently

Jim is shocked by the amount of flooding in this area, and claims it's the most water he has seen since 2003

The hippo seem to like the extra water, however

Waterbuck

Open Billed Stork

Lilac Breasted Roller

Meve's Starling

Red Billed Hornbill

A side effect of the flooding is the invasive water hyacinth that is now found in damp areas – spread by being carried on the backs of hippos.

Grey Heron

Little Bee Easter

Mvuu Lodge

As we pull up to our accommodation here in Liwonde, Mvuu Camp, we are greeted by a member of staff who informs us that we are in fact NOT staying at the camp, we have been moved to the lodge of the same name. This is quite an upgrade, so we are certainly not complaining.

The entrance to the lodge

From the car park, shaded paths lead to the main building and the rooms

The restaurant overlooking the river

The 'Beach' where there are chairs and a firepit

Our Room

We're in room number 6, also known as Nangondo, meaning "a body of running water"

The room is made from canvas, wood, glass, and straw, and set on a large wooden platform alongside the river.

On the platform is also a small, private plunge pool, and a couple of chairs to relax in the shade in the midday heat.

A series of glass doors open up to a narrow patio that leads to an outdoor shower.

The interior is spacious, with twin beds under a mosquito net, a sofa, a lounge chair, free-standing double basins, an indoor shower, and a toilet.

David lounging

The indoor shower on the left, toilet on the right

The free-standing basins

Interesting taps

Safe, mosquito spray, and a fog horn to alert staff should we have a medical emergency in the night (for safety, walking about outside after dark is not permitted). Note the African style lock (the code does not work)

There is also a drum to attract attention for non-emergencies

Claudia, the very enthusiastic manageress comes to give us a briefing on dos and don’ts and what to expect from the camp.

Afternoon Game Drive

As soon as we have had our briefing and dumped our stuff, we are off out on an afternoon game drive, in a proper open-sided safari vehicle.

Another Brown Hooded Kingfisher

Yellow Baboon

It may look like a cactus, but it's a Candelabra Tree - there are no wild cactuses in Africa.

Crocodile

Impala

African Fish Eagle

Helmeted Guineafowl

Green Backed Heron

Sundowners

As the sun sets, we stop for drinks and nibbles – awfully civilised.

Savanna (of course!), popcorn, biltong and cheese straws

With Danger, the driver (yes, that really is his name!), on the left, and Emanuel, the spotter, on the right

With Emanuel and Jim

Trying to get started again after stopping for the sunset, we find the car battery is flat, but with Jim and Emanuel pushing we manage to get going again.

Night Drive

The light fades quickly, and Emanuel sits on the jump seat right at the front of the vehicle with a spotlight as we continue our safari after dark.

It may not be ideal as far as photography goes, but spotting wild animals after dark adds an extra excitement, and allows us to see those critters who generally only come out at night.

Scrub Hare

Kudu

Porcupine

Spotted Hyena

Hippo

White Tailed Mongoose

Dinner

We head straight for The Beach to enjoy a drink in front of the camp fire before dinner, where we chat with a lovely young American couple.

David at dinner

Vegetable spring roll to start

Grilled chicken breast (boneless and tasty), served with garlic mashed potatoes and roasted root vegetables (thankfully not overcooked, but nicely al dente)

Dessert is ginger pannacotta, but I am too busy enjoying it (as well as Jim's portion as he didn't want it) to remember to take a photo. Sorry.

Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this amazing Great Africa Trip 2024 for us.