Lake Malawi: sunset feeding the cichlids and the fish eagles

Despite the hot room and narrow bed, I slept well last night here in our lodge on the shores of Lake Malawi..

Mouse?

The first thing we do this morning is to sort out the cases. I notice that a pair of my socks has something sticky and brown stuck to them, and later discover that the sachets of cappuccino power that we brought from home have been attacked by a small rodent of some sort.

When I later mention this to Jim, he tells me that they had to repair the thatch on our cabin in Mvuu, after a tree squirrel managed to get in. It is strange that he (or she) went for the coffee rather than the cereal bars that are in the case. There is now a hyperactive squirrel in Liwonde, high on caffeine. Oops.

Breakfast

For some reason, I find the fact that we are presented with a breakfast menu this morning rather at odds with the somewhat basic standard of the lodge, especially as there was no menu for dinner last night.

Fruit salad - not on the menu, it just arrives

My pancakes

David has his usual Full English Breakfast while keeping up with the Euro 2024 news

Before we leave the restaurant, we are asked to order both lunch and dinner. I guess there is only us staying here again tonight.

We move one of the tables from the restaurant to our private veranda so that I can plug my laptop in while I back up my photos.

With my camera at the ready, just in case I see something interesting.

Black-Faced Vervet Monkey playing in the grounds of the lodge

White Tailed Skink

With breakfast

Fishermen on the lake

Lunch

The waiter offers to serve our lunch at the chalet, which seems to make sense.

David enjoys a succulent chicken burger

My sloppy fries are slightly spicy, with minced beef, beans, and cheese piled on potato fries

Sunset Cruise

We have to step into the water in order to get into the boat, as the jetty has been washed away by the recent floods.

Solomon, our guide for the afternoon

View of our lodge from the water - with a couple of ladies visiting for a late lunch

According to the locals, the water level in the lake has never been this high: many of the lake shore lodges are now partially under water.

Sangalala means "Be Happy". A bit difficult when your livelihood is flooded, I guess

All along the coastline of the lake are fishing villages. They catch a small fish known as Johnson, which they dry for three days before transporting it to sell in Lilongwe, Malawi's capital.

Johnson

David and Solomon

David and Jim

The captain, whose name I don't catch, despite asking three times

Cichlids

More than a thousand species of cichlids live in Lake Malawi, hundreds of which are endemic, and many of the fishtanks in houses around the world are home to these easy-to-keep aquarium fish. According to the Smithsonian, more than half the species in the lake have not yet been described.

We stop close to a series of boulders known as Thumbi Island, and Solomon brings out some cake which he breaks into smaller pieces and throws in the water.

There is instant chaos. Through the crystal clear water, we see thousands upon thousands of shimmering fish: blue, purple, yellow, brown, and the occasional flash of red swimming towards a small piece of cake as if their lives depend on it. Which in some ways it does, I guess.

Taken holding a waterproof camera under water over the edge of the boat

Fish Eagles

Once we have had our fill of cichlid photos, and the cichlids have had their fill of cake, Solomon eats the rest of the cake and we continue around the corner of the island for the next part of our adventure: feeding the African Fish Eagles.

A pair of eagles, known as Jo and Jerry, live in the trees on the island, and certainly know when food is being brought out on the boats.

Solomon whistles and calls their names, and they soar from their lofty perch to swoop down into the water where Solomon throws a fish.

Taking their supper back up into the trees to eat, once they have finished, they sit on a perch as if to say: “I’m ready for another fish, please”.

Eagle's eyrie

"Please may I have some more"

This scenario is repeated several times, until the birds let us know they are no longer hungry, but not appearing again after eating.

A time lapse photo collage of an African Fish Eagle diving

Sundowners

It’s time for our customary sundowners – I could get used to this.

"Would sir like a Savanna?"

No need to ask.

"And madam?" "I don't mind if I do."

Solomon enjoys a Coke as the sun goes down

It's not a bad sunset

Engine trouble

As is often the case with us and boats, the engine splutters and dies. After a few attempts by the captain and Solomon to get it going again, Jim comes to the rescue and declares it is caused by a ‘dirty filter’. Soon we are on our way back to the camp.

Chembe Eagles Nest

As we approach the lodge, I notice a couple of motorhomes have arrived in the campsite attached to the lodge.

Back in the restaurant, I try to log in to the hotel's wifi, but it seems they haven’t paid their bill.

Dinner

We are again the only diners in the restaurant this evening, and tonight Jim is not joining us either. The people from the campsite, however, are in the bar talking to the staff, apparently trying to arrange something. We chat to them as they return to their vans: they are from France and shipped their motorhomes from Rotterdam to South Africa and April and are making their way back to France overland, hoping to be home by Christmas. What an adventure! (they do admit to it being VERY frustrating at times)

The starter of chicken satay comes with a nice kick and a creamy sauce

The kampango fish fillet is more than big enough for the two of us to share. I find the coating a little greasy, but the flesh is quite nice and creamy. It is not until I get home and google the spelling of the fish, that I find it is a critically endangered large catfish. I feel guilty now.

Me: "What is it?" Waiter: "Dessert.". Me: "Yes, OK, but what is it?" Him: "Dessert". I give up and just eat it. I think it is meant to be a tiramisu.

Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this amazing Africa trip for us.