South Luangwa - Lions, Hide, Baby Elephant, Chameleon

After going to bed in a power cut last night, we were pleased when the electricity was restored at 00:14. At least it means we don’t have to get dressed in the dark this morning.

Morning Game Drive

Giraffes

Just along from the lodge, we are greeted by a tower of giraffes, all 16 of them!

These are Thornicroft Giraffes, a subspecies of the more common Maasai Giraffe, although some people do believe it is a species in its own right. It is endemic to Zambia.

Today I learn that while the collective noun of giraffes standing around is called a tower (which I knew already), when they are walking, they are known as a journey.

I love how the different colouring develops as the giraffes age

Impala

The reason for these impalas gathering on a mound under a tree is that there are monkeys in the branches above who drop fruit on the ground and also act as an early warning system for any danger.

Park Entrance

This morning there is a line of cars waiting to enter South Luangwa National Park; the delay is caused by a South African self-drive vehicle whose paperwork is not in order.

The security guard checks Andrew's papers and our permits

Blacksmith Lapwing

Black Crake

African Jacana

Hammerkop on a Hippo

The Hippo has a baby!

Puku

Impala

Saddle Billed Stork

Weaver Nests

The White Browed Sparrow Weaver builds nests on thorny trees for protection against snakes. The nests are usually found on the far end of the branch, as the snake would be too heavy to go out that far. The nests are built on the Eastern side of the tree in order to catch the early morning sun.

These elaborate nests have an added security detail in case of an attack by a snake – they have two entrances, so if the predator enters one of them, the bird can quickly exit through the other.

Mfuwe Pride of Lions

This is the most successful - and largest - pride in the area, although we initially see just two males under a tree in the distance.

The older they get, the darker the mane becomes

Moving closer, we see another 14 cats soaking up the warmth from the early morning sun spread out over an open area. Lions do not like walking in the long grass early in the morning or late afternoon, as the grass is damp from dew. In other words: they don't like getting their feet wet. But then again, who does?

At first, they are extremely inactive, barely raising a head to look around before lying down again.

Sub-adult cub, around three years old

Then one of them spots a couple of zebra, sparking some interest.

Hunting position - will we see a chase?

They soon lose interest.

Many of the other vehicles around the pride also lose interest, and leave, being replaced with others. We, and a hardcore of two other cars, stay to see what happens and are rewarded with some gentle action as the lions start getting up, one by one.

Having warmed their bodies in the morning sun, they now head into the bush to find a shady spot to spend the day.

After being blessed with a delightful hour with these beauties, we move on to see what else nature has to offer us today.

Red Necked Spurfowl

Grey Crowned Cranes

Helmeted Guineafowl

Picnic

As usual, Andrew finds us a safe place to stop and have a cup of tea and some biscuits.

Andrew and David

We overlook a small waterhole

Getting back in the car to continue our explorations of the park

Also known as The Modern Dinosaur, the Southern Ground Hornbill can live to 70 years old or more.

The stunning Malachite Kingfisher

Fork Tailed Drongo

Hippo

A magnificent Baobab tree

Crawshay's Zebra

Wildlife Hide

As soon as we get back to camp, we head straight for their hide, which is accessed across a rickety metal bridge.

Padded bench seats and a shelf for camera equipment and binoculars

There is not much going on out there at the moment

After sitting quietly for a while, a few birds and animals start to arrive.

Fork Tailed Drongo

Greater Blue Eared Starling

White Fronted Bee Eater

One of them is having a funny moment

The other one catches a butterfly

Banded Mongoose

Originally rescued from the floods in 2014 by the barman, they have stayed around and brought up their babies here ever since. The camp enjoys having them around, as they keep the snake population at bay.

Lunch

After having no dinner last night, I am really hungry when lunch comes around. So hungry, in fact, that I forget to take photos. The quiche with bacon is served warm, which I didn’t expect. I am normally not a fan of quiche, but I really enjoy this one – even the pastry is nice.

David tries out the local beer

Afternoon Game Drive

Waterbuck and Impala

Waterbuck

Saddle Billed Stork

You can tell their sex by the colour of their eyes: this one is a male (brown eyes, while the female has yellow eyes). The red patch at the front is where he has removed his feathers to help incubate the eggs. It makes us wonder where his mate is, as they mate for life.

They spread their wings like this to glean acid from their uropygial gland which they spread on their body to get rid of ectoparasites.

Elephant Loop

We take a drive down a track called Elephant Loop, and sure enough, we soon spot a little family of them.

The little baby (Andrew estimates he’s around three years old) is so cute. He is bothered by a fly, and does a little ‘dance’ while waving his trunk around trying to get rid of it.

Kudu

The chevron pattern of the forehead is designed to improve their night vision.

Female

Fully grown male with its magnificent horns

Cape Buffalo

Sundowners

We stop and alight the vehicle down by the river to indulge in some drinks and nibbles.

The light is fading fast now, and our spotter, Mago, gets his powerful spot-light out to shine on any animals we come across after dark.

Puku – I notice the one on the right has lost its tail.

Large Spotted Genet

I am really impressed how Mago manages to spot this tiny Flap Necked Chameleon in the foliage on the side of the road. What a treat!

Elephants

Initially hiding in the bushes, we are delighted when she breaks out and crosses the road. Even more exciting is the fact that she has a young baby with her.

Elephant Shrew - another tiny animal that Mago manages to see in the undergrowth

White Tailed Mongoose

Andrew assures us there is a Bushbaby in the tree. It’s not until it moves that we can see it, and even then only its tail and some more fur.

Dinner

We start with something they call “Half Moon”, which is pasta filled with spinach in a tomato sauce – basically like a large ravioli. It is very pleasant.

The main course is pork tenderloin with mash and vegetables. The meat is tender and rather enjoyable.

The dessert of waffles and homemade ice cream is delicious.

I set up my tripod and camera on the terrace in front of the restaurant, hoping to do some astrophotography, but I am disappointed to find that the Milky Way is lurking behind a bunch of trees. Time to go to bed instead.

Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this amazing Great Africa Trip 2024.