South Luangwa - Lusaka

I wake up with everything hurting after a restless night with no electricity until the generator came on at 05:20 this morning.

Today is merely a travel day, as we will make our way south from South Luanwa National Park to Zambia's capital Lusaka for our next part of the adventure.

Breakfast

As we have a later start this morning, we are offered a full English breakfast, and it would seem rude not to accept.

I wander around the grounds of the Wildlife Camp this morning, struggling to tear myself away, knowing that we have two full days of travel ahead of us, and no game drives for another four days.

The restaurant, bar and lounge

The toilets

Some of the guest chalets

The reception area

The internet café

Some of the sculptures in the grounds

Our chalet

The lounge area

The road is initially straight, smooth, and almost empty, just occasionally decorated with goats and cattle; but lacking the usual potholes we have become accustomed to.

When Jim stops at a service station to fill up with diesel and suggests that we use the facilities there, I am reminded of why I much prefer to go behind a bush!

Picnic

Always prepared, Jim brings out a table and chairs, tablecloth, and flask of hot water and set up our picnic at the side of the road.

The lodge has provided us with a simple packed lunch consisting of a bread roll, a couple of eggs, an apple, and an orange. Much to my delight, they’ve even provided a pinch of salt wrapped in foil, as I am not keen on eating my eggs naked (i.e., without salt).

Passing truck drivers sound their horns and wave, and just as we are packing up, two boys on bicycles stop and stare at these strange creatures bringing their dining table to the roadside in the middle of nowhere.

From here the road becomes narrower, more winding, and offers roadside shopping opportunities.

And then the dreaded potholes disappear, just in case we have missed them.

The problem is that from a distance you can’t gauge how deep the pothole is, or even if it has been filled in, so you need to slow right down anyway.

At least they are doing some repair work on the road, smoothing the surface and filling in the holes.

As we get nearer the capital, the traffic increases, and the road is 'owned' by huge trucks, moving at a snail’s pace. To help the traffic move smoothly, they indicate left when they can see the road ahead and consider it safe for other vehicles to overtake.

Controlled bush-fire

Yet again we cross the Luangwa River, on a weak bridge with strict rules of only one vehicle at a time. The car behind us – a self-drive safari vehicle from South Africa – continues immediately after us, and subsequently gets stopped by the bridge-keeper and probably fined US$200. Ouch.

Wild Dogs Camp

The access to the lodge does not do the place justice, along a very uneven gravel track from the main road. Two security guards open the heavy metal gates, and they are obviously expecting us judging by the warm welcome and the fact that by the time we have gathered our personal belongings and exited the car, our luggage is halfway to our room. None of this ‘finding the reception and signing in’ here. I like it.

Our room

The lodge is set in lovely undulating grounds, with a restaurant and pool area to one side, and the rooms (two rooms to each chalet) on the other side.

The lush grounds

The pool area

It's a shame it is too cold to use the pool, it looks very inviting

The restaurant and bar

Winding paths lead around the grounds

The chalets - ours is the left-hand room of the right-hand chalet

Lots of little sculptures in the grounds

A wooden crocodile and an enclosure for their pet tortoise

Our room is lovely, with two large single beds, indoor seating, and a veranda.

I always appreciate a bed where the mosquito net is on the outside of the bedside table – not only does it make it easier to access anything on the table in the night, it also means my legs don’t get tangled in the net as I try to get out of the bed.

Seeing the hot water bottle on the bed, I am expecting the temperatures to drop drastically overnight.

Towels with a pink hibiscus flower - such little touches make a difference

The toilet roll holder and the spare

Hand wash and lotion in the bathroom

Facecloths

The shower is powerful with plenty of hot water

Just in time to empty the Duty-Free rum we bought at Heathrow, we enjoy a pre-dinner drink in the room.

Dinner

This is our last night in Zambia and our last night with Jim. He is also staying here at the Wild Dogs camp and is therefore able to join us for dinner this evening.

A table is laid for us on the patio by the swimming pool, and staff have kindly placed a chiminea next to it. It gives out an amazing amount of heat, to the point where I have to ask them to move it a bit further away from me as I am being roasted on one side.

Us with Jim

Chicken steak with mash – a huge portion of two chicken fillets

Tasty chocolate ice cream

It is always sad to say goodbye to a guide at the end of a trip, and today is no exception. Jim has been so much more than a guide, he has become part of our family and a very good friend. Just as we are sharing a last hug, the local street dogs start howling – very appropriate.

While we wait for the staff to come and fill our hot water bottles, we share the last dregs of the other Duty-Free bottle we brought with us – Tia Maria coffee liqueur.

Thank you so much to Undiscovered Destinations and their local team for making this portion of our Great Africa Trip 2024 so enjoyable.