Shkodër – Koman Lake – Valbonna

In order to reach the 10:00 ferry on Lake Koman, we leave the hotel at 07:30 this morning, which is before the hotel starts serving breakfast. They kindly supply us with a packed breakfast consisting of a bap with cheese, ham, tomatoes and cucumber, which we eat in the car.

Snaking its way along the side of the valley, following the shoreline of Drin River, the road is narrow, winding, and full of roadworks.

Fisheries on Drin River

Roadworks

It doesn’t help that Vladimir is unfamiliar with the width of the car (it's a much bigger car than he is used to), and he slows right down every time we meet an oncoming vehicle - even when there is plenty of space, or a white line separating the two different directions.

The last stretch of road goes through a narrow and roughly-hewn tunnel, with cars parked along the side, making it even more narrow.

The end of the tunnel leads directly to the ferry point, where confusion reigns. There are cars parked everywhere, and several people milling about.

Arriving at 09:40, we are flabbergasted, and disheartened to find the 10:00 ferry left half an hour early because it was full.

My heart sinks. The ferry trip on Lake Koman was billed as one of the highlights of the trip, and described in guide books as probably the most spectacular ferry ride in the world. It is frustrating, and upsetting, but there is nowt we can do about it. There is no point in crying over spilt milk. It is Vladimir I feel sorry for, as instead of a 2½ hour relaxing boat ride, he now not only has to contend with the challenging road back, he then has to drive all around the countryside for six hours to meet up with the original route.

The map below shows how much further it is: We left the main road for the unsealed and under-repair gravel track at point A. The ferry departs (or rather departed) from point B, culminating at point C. We have to retrace our tracks back to point A, and drive the winding roads to point C where we re-join the original route.

While Vladimir negotiates the bends, rough road, and heavy machinery on the way, we sit back and enjoy the view.

The road clinging to the hillside

The views are great, but there is nowhere to stop and get out to take photos, so I have to make do with my usual ‘drive-by-shooting’ (taking pictures from a moving car).

Finally we are back on a sealed road, but it is no less winding.

Soon we are whizzing past pine forests, with snow-capped mountains in the distance.

Three things have become somewhat urgent: fuel for the car, coffee for the driver, and toilet for the passengers. We spot a suitable café alongside the road, and after being cooped up in the car for the last four ours, it is nice to get out and stretch our legs.

The cappuccino is also very welcome, it is rich and caramelly, and not at all bitter.

The toilets, on the other hand, are not quite so… what can I say… “agreeable”.

In the amusingly-named town of Puke, we find a petrol station, by which time the car is running on fumes.

As we ascend the road into the mountains, I look for a suitable place to stop and launch my drone.

I never really imagined Albania to be so mountainous

The launching pad

This photos above shows the difference between the view seen at ground level (top photo), and what the drone sees.

Lunch

In the small town of Fishë-Arrës, a little roadside diner temps us to stop for lunch. It has just a handful of tables, and no menu, but Vladimir orders a few dishes to share.

Beans with beef - the meat is very well cooked and falls apart

Cheese

Salad

There is also a big basket of bread.

From here, the road clings steadfastly to the steep forested hillside of the deep ravines, covered in 50 shades of green, with bright new growth on age old trees bringing promises of a new summer.

In the distance, snow-capped mountains peak through the mist as a reminder of the cold winter days we have left behind.

We have now joined up again with the Drin River, with its deep blue water. There is evidence along the shore that the water level is considerably down.

The river ends in one of the most unusual hydroelectric dams I have ever seen.

Fierza Hydroelectric Power Station

This is the first dam I have ever seen with a switchback road leading up its side

The icy-blue Valbonnes River tumbles over rocks as we follow it up the valley, crossing from one side to the other.

Hotel Rilinja

Built on one of the only flat areas around, the hotel is surrounded by forest, meadows, huge boulders and majestic mountains beyond. What an idyllic setting!

Huge boulders in the grounds

The mountains beyond

The manager comes out to the car, concerned that I will not be able to get up the steep and narrow steps to their accommodation. David goes back with him to have a look at the stairs, takes some photos and comes back to show me.

Yes, they are steep, but I am sure I can make it, albeit slowly. The building is like a ski lodge, all wood and earthy colours. We both immediately love it. The only thing we are not so keen on is the narrow bed which is up against the wall on one side, meaning David will have to climb over me should he need to get up in the night.

Our room is up under the eaves by the chimney on the right hand side.

As the sun is still shining, we wander down to the lovely gardens and soon after we sit down, the manager comes over to ask if we would like a drink. Good man.

We ask him for permission to send up a drone, and he is quite happy for us to do that.

Us, circled, in the grounds of the hotel

As always, the drone gives a completely different viewpoint.

Dinner

As there is nowhere else for miles around, Vladimir eats with us this evening. The table is laid with crisp white linen, and cloth napkins in artistic shapes. I always judge a restaurant by whether they have cloth or paper napkins.

We try some local wine, which is infinitely drinkable.

Cream of vegetable soup with croutons

Appetisers to share: mixed vegetables, beetroot tzatziki, local yogurt, polenta, byrek (under the tongs – my favourite), corn break, and meat patties.

Herby salad with cheese

Trout from the stream on the premises. This has to be the least food miles of any meal I have ever had - the stream is literally outside the window we are sitting by. Even allowing for the kitchen being at the back of the building, this fish has not even travelled ten metres from water to plate.

We see the staff fishing in the stream as we eat our dinner.

Dessert - Rushendi - Milk Pudding with Nuts

And so ends another day in Albania, on a Balkans adventure arranged by Undiscovered Destinations