Islamabad City Sightseeing

I continue my quest to try local foods this morning, opting for a Pakistani omelette for breakfast. I am asked if I want it spicy or non-spicy. I choose the former, while David asks for a plain omelette – he likes spicy food, just not for breakfast.

The omelette is a little on the dry side, but very tasty. It is better with toast and butter

David with his plain omelette

Daman-e-Koh Viewpoint

Set on Mangala Hill overlooking all of Islamabad, Asif tells the security guard that we are very special VIPs from the British embassy, and he needs to let us drive to the top rather than park in the car park and walk.

The guard lets us through, and at the next ‘barrier’, Asif simply moves a couple of plant pots.

The view from the top is definitely worth it – we can see all of Islamabad laid out before us.

A relatively new city, Islamabad may be Pakistan’s capital, but it is only the country’s tenth most populous city with around 1.1 million people. It was built as a ‘planned city’ in the 1960s, with the capital transferred from Karachi in 1967.

The name Islamabad simply means City of Islam. Located in northern Pakistan, Islamabad is notable for its modern architecture, tree-lined avenues, and organised layout, and is divided into a series of colour coded areas. We are staying in the Blue Area.

We bump into another British couple who are also on a private tour similar to ours, and we chat for a while, comparing our two different itineraries. They are flying up to Skardu (as they only have two weeks unlike our three weeks in the country), whereas we are driving up as well as down.

The Jamia Farida Islamic religious complex

The three towers house Mövenpick Hotel and a shopping mall

Shah Faisal Mosque - our next stop

On the way up to the viewing platform we saw dozens of monkeys running around the grounds, so I get my long zoom lens out ready for the journey down. They’ve all gone. Not. A. Single. Monkey. Oh well, here is a short clip from David’s video from the drive up the hill.

Shah Faisal Mosque

The same VIP treatment happens here, with Asif managing to get special permission not just to drive right up to the mosque, but also to go inside (normally just reserved for dignitaries outside of prayer time).

Shah Faisal is the national mosque of Pakistan, and the sixth largest in the world. It is named after the late King Faisal of Saudi Arabia, whose $28 million grant helped to pay for it. The design was inspired by the shape of a Bedouin tent, without the typical dome usually seen in Islamic religious architecture.

As soon as we arrive inside the mosque (with permission to carry the shoes to the locked VIP area inside rather than leave them in the public boxes outside), a couple of chairs are brought out for us, and a fan positioned to cool us down (it is 36 °C outside, and not much cooler inside).

Asif explains about the mosque

I am particularly taken with the chandelier

The large open book represents the mihrab which indicates the qibla (the direction of Mecca).

Behind you can see an electronic display of different times relating to daily prayers

The stairs lead to the lectern used by the Khateeb (preacher during the all-important Friday Prayers).

The larger platform you can see at the back on the right hand side of this photo is reserved exclusively for the King of Saudi Arabia.

Not only is the interior of the mosque quite stunning, the whole VIP experience leaves me in awe. I certainly feel like a Very Special Person indeed, and can’t believe the lengths Asif is going to for us. My head is spinning with the wonderment of it all and I feel quite overwhelmed.

Us in front of the lectern. Cameras are not allowed but using the phone to take pictures is OK

Displayed around the room are calligraphic versions of the 30 chapters of the Koran, each more impressive than the previous.

The complex has the capacity to hold up to 74000 people in the main areas including the inner hall, and the courtyards, with the surrounding grounds being able to contain up to 200,000 people.

We are offered some sweets to share in the celebrations of a young couple who have just got married and came here to have photos taken.

I'm amused that someone has seen fit to take a bite out of a rasgulla and put it back in the box

The happy couple

Some birds in the grounds of the complex:

Common Myna

House Crow

Mawlid Celebrations

As we drive away from the mosque, we encounter what I initially believe to be a political protest. “Not at all” Asif reassures us, "it’s a religious celebration for the birthday of the prophet". The devotees carry banners, and often sing in praise.

Saidpur Village

This 400-year old village has been turned into a bit of a ‘tourist spot', with the entire street lined with restaurants (none of which appears open when we are there).

This Mughal era village has a wide spectrum of cultural and religious heritage. It is one of the oldest villages in the region that is still inhabited. It started life as a Muslim village, later to be set up as a place for Hindu worshippers. Today there is a Hindu Temple, a dharamshala (public resthouse where Hindus could sleep, eat and drink for free), and a Sikh Gurdwara right next to each other. An Islamic Mosque as well as a Christian church are found not too far away.

The 16th century Rama Mandir Hindu Temple, dedicated to the Hindu god Shri Ram, who is believed to have lived in the area with his family during 14 years of their exile.

Sikh Gurdwara dedicated to Guru Nanak

The dharamshala 'guesthouse'

The dharamshala is beautifully decorated with frescoes on the walls, made from all natural colours.

In the complex stands a 200-year old bodhi tree. This sacred fig tree (Ficus religiosa) is considered to have religious significance in four major religions: Hinduism, Buddhism, Sikhism and Jainism.

Lunch: 14th Street Pizza

Asif orders a couple of large pizzas and some BBQ wings for us to share. Having ascertained that we are quite happy with spicy food, he gets a Mughal Pizza as well as an Extreme Peri Peri Pizza. The latter is extremely delicious, deep pan, with a creamy filling.

Extreme Peri Peri - really yummy

Mughal Pizza - good, but not a patch on the other one

BBQ Wings - they are tasty, but I am not so keen on wings as I don't like food with bones

International Friendship Gardens

Yet again Asif manages to magically open gates for us. Not only are we allowed to drive right up to the entrance, someone unlocks the gate to the garden for us and we walk past the NO ENTRY sign. Later we see other people being turned away.

The NO ENTRY sign

Being opened up especially for us

Part of the much larger Shakarparian National Park, the Friendship Garden showcases trees planted by various international heads of state.

Asif, Haider (our driver), David and I all look at the various plaques, but it seems that neither the UK, nor Norway, has sent any horticultural representatives to this place.

Burma, Zimbabwe, and USA are all represented, so why not Norway or UK?.

Between us we cover the entire area, but to no avail.

From there we drive through Islamabad's Red Zone where all the government buildings are. Normally a security guard at the end of the road will stop traffic, but today, for the first time for three years, Asif is allowed through. I am again told not to use my 'big camera', but it is OK to take photos and videos with my phone.

Pakistan Monument

The walk from the car park to the entrance is thronging with domestic tourists, vendors, food stalls, and hustlers.

A decorated camel is ready for tourists to ride. I am not tempted.

We see a Ukrainian girl having her hands painted with henna, and Asif helps her to negotiate a fair price. I am drawn to having mine done as well, of course.

The artist uses a stamp, which is very much quicker than painting freehand.

As soon as she stamps my hand, I feel a burning sensation, which is rather worrying, having read horror stories online about people suffering serious burns from chemical henna. I decide not to have the second hand done for that reason, nor the inside of my palms as the other western tourist did.

The area around the actual monument is extremely busy, and we are the only westerners here. People are mostly shy, sometimes trying to photograph us covertly, but none of the pointing, crowding around us, and just standing there staring, which we are used to from India. I wave at a young mother who is trying to take my photo, and she comes over with her family to have her photo taken with me. A few others follow suit, but it it is all very calm and not overdone, thankfully.

We climb up onto the platform, and Asif explains about the various aspects of the monument. The four large petals represent each of the four cultures, the Punjabi, the Baloch, the Sindhi and the Pakhtun. The three smaller petals represent: the minorities Azad, Kashmir and Gilgit-Baltistan. Standing together, they are protecting the star and the crescent of the flag of Pakistan.

Each of the petals is covered in artwork on the inside, illustrating the story of the independence of Pakistan.

Our visit here is planned to coincide with dusk, so I can take photos as the lights are turned on for the monument.

Asif kicks the youth sitting on the wall in front off so that I can take a photo

The platform below is absolutely full of people, however.

It isn’t Asif who gets rid of them, but Photoshop!

The obligatory selfie:

There are some rather threatening clouds around, and by the time we get back to the hotel, one of the most incredible thunderstorms I have ever witnessed takes place. Initially we just stand and watch, then I take some videos of it on my phone, and finally I get my camera and tripod out to take some ‘proper’ photos. There is no rain, just a terrific light show.

It's a shame that there is not an interesting foreground, but beggars can't be choosers. The hotel car park, it is then.

What an incredible finish to an amazing day! Thank you Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this fabulous adventure to Northern Pakistan.