Islamabad - Hasan Abdal - Naran

We are leaving very early for today’s long journey, so early in fact, that breakfast is not available when we go down at 06:40. David is fine as he can have cereal with milk, whereas I grab what looks like a croissant.

The pastry is incredibly dry and dense – the French would be horrified!

Hasan Abdal Decorated Trucks

This area is known for creating those incredible painting on the side of the huge trucks that ply the Karakoram Highway. It is too windy (whipping up loose sand from the side of the road) for any painting to actually take place today, but we do see a number of these beautiful vehicles at a popular truck stop.

The large trucks are covered inside and out with elaborate and colourful artistic designs, a form of folk art known as Pakistani truck art. Motifs include flowers, symmetrical designs, village and mountain scenes, calligraphy, various birds and animals found in Pakistan, and also bells, garlands and cloth tied on.

Inside one of the trucks

Truck art is big business in Pakistan, with an estimated 250,000 people employed in the industry. There is also a lot of friendly competition as to who has most beautifully decorated vehicle and they are considered symbols of personal pride. Huge sums of money are invested in decorating the trucks in the best and most unique fashion. The more flamboyant a truck is, the more it stands out.

Even the inside of the cargo bed is decorated!

The black cloth tied to the corners helps ward off evil, and many drivers decorate their vehicles with reminders of home, as they are often away for long periods of time.

A decorated truck in the wood-panelled Khyber Pakhtunkhwa style, with the unmistakable canopy (crown prow) rising from the front of the vehicle, known as a taj. I can’t but question how this impacts the aerodynamics of the truck.

Also known as ‘jingle trucks’ as a nod to the chains and bells often suspended from the bumper (fender), which make a jingly sound as they move over uneven road surface.

Asif shows off the bells

Truck art has also been used to spread news to remote areas (before social media), and as here, highlight the plight of missing children!

Later we pass a shop selling stickers, garlands, bells, and whistles, flashing lights, and anything else you can possible want to make your truck stand out from the rest.

I first became aware of these pieces of travelling art many years ago while watching a film of travel through the Khyber pass. I’ve wanted to see one in real life ever since, and today I have fulfilled that dream!

Gurdwara Sri Punja Sahib

When we set off this morning I ask Asif whether he thinks it would be possible for us to visit the Sikh Gurdwara (which isn't on our itinerary, but we will be more of less passing on the way). Asif is doubtful, as westerners were recently banned from entering after a TikToker made a video inside, put western music to it, and made disrespectful comments of ridicule about it.

We stop right outside and Asif chats with the guards. They are happy to let us in, but fear they would get into trouble with the police and intelligence if they did so. The gurdwara is a very sensitive area as a result of the India-Pakistan relations. I can totally understand that, and I really don’t want to cause any problems for anyone.

Heavy barriers protecting the entrance

Karakoram Highway

We are now travelling along the fabled KKH, also known as the China-Pakistan Friendship Highway. It runs between Kashgar in China, and Hasan Abdal in Pakistan, and is the highest paved international road in the world. Construction began in 1959, and the 1300km (810 miles) long highway was opened to the public in 1986. During the construction, 810 Pakistani and 82 Chinese workers lost their lives, mostly in landslides and falls. As a marvel of civil engineering, it's said to be the 'Eighth Wonder of the World' due to its high elevation and the difficult conditions in which it was constructed. It’s considered one of the ultimate road trips, and has been on my wish list for a number of years.

Roads signs written in English, Chinese and Russian, reflecting the importance of this highway as a trade route.

Roadworks along the way

We stop in a small village where Asif goes off to buy water for us. While I watch this chap carrying baskets of concrete to a construction site on a roof, Haider is being pestered by a young girl begging for food, money and water. Using hand signals, he suggests the person she needs is Asif, and she goes off to hound him instead, making us laugh out loud. Asif initially shoos her off, but just as he is getting back into the car, he slips her a small amount of cash, as do both Haider and I.

Lunch

We stop in Abbotabad in a KFC to use the toilet, and stay for a bite to eat (Asif’s choice, not ours!).

Asif and Haider

Asif orders burgers, fries and wings for us to share

Zinger burger with chicken and cheese

David sees the opportunity to have an ice cream, and I join him.

Manshera

Ashoka Rock Edicts

Driving up a steep, narrow side road, we stop by a fence surrounding an area with a couple of structures sheltering two rocky outcrops.

The gate to the complex is locked, and according to some people hanging around further down the road, the guard with the key has gone home for lunch. They give Asif his telephone number, but when Asif tries to call, it just rings out. Plan B: Asif sends a man on a motorbike to fetch him from home. The motorcyclist comes back to report that according to the guard’s wife, he has gone out for lunch. Plan C: Asif sends someone out to look for him, with me stressing that we will wait until the poor man has had his lunch!

I amuse myself meanwhile by taking photos of utility metres on the wall. Oh, the excitement!

Eventually the guard turns up and we are allowed inside. There is a huge sign forbidding photography, but I am told to take no notice of that!

These boulders are culturally and historically important in that they are covered with edicts carved into the surface of the rock by the Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC.

After a particularly bloody war in India, Ashoka, dismayed by the human misery caused, converted to Buddhism and renounced all kinds of violence. He created a set of rules and conducts, which he started to enforce throughout his empire. With no Facebook, TikTok or other forms of mass communication in those days, he started to inscribe rock surfaces and pillars of polished sandstone along major highways to spread his message (we first came across Ashoka Pillars in India back in 1988). Over the years the inscriptions have eroded, and these days are difficult to make out.

It was only fairly recently (mid 19th century) that the rocks and pillars bearing Ashoka’s edicts came to light, spread across Northern India, Nepal, Pakistan and Afghanistan. I find it mind blowing that I am here, looking at something written by an emperor 2400 years ago.

We continue on our journey, with Haider stopping at various points when we see something interesting along the side of the road.

Children bathing in a small pond

A man with a couple of horses

An overcrowded Jeep that we followed for some time

I count ten passengers plus the driver and a large amount of luggage and goods

Chai Stop

In order to give Haider a break from driving (and us a chance to stretch our legs), we stop for chai at a roadside café near Balakot.

Haider and Asif

David tries the local chai, whereas I stick to black tea

The view from the terrace

The toilets are situated down a steep staircase with no hand rails, clinging precariously to the side of the cliff. Thankfully I do not have the urge to go at this time.

Action Camera

We brought with us a small action camera to be attached to the front of the vehicle to record some of the ‘interesting’ roads we will be travelling on during our three weeks in Pakistan. Below are a couple of videos – speeded up – showing the road with its numerous S-bends leading up into the mountains and on to Naran.

We pass some amazing scenery as we climb higher into the mountains.

Look at these roads!

We pass a gaudy restaurant that is built over a cascade, with the seats positioned so that patrons have their feet in water. Asif asks if we would like to stop and have a drink. We decline.

One of the many pretty bridges we see spanning various canyons, and in the picture below, you can see a pulley system where a dolly (basket) is used to haul people and goods across the river.

With autumn well on the way, it is now the end of the grazing season for animals in the mountains, and we see many sheep, goats, cattle, donkeys, mules, and horses being brought back down to the lowlands for winter.

Naran

By the time we get to Naran, it is raining quite heavily, and dusk is creeping in.

As I mentioned in my blog from the 3rd September, our original hotel in Naran has decided to close early for the season. Asif explains that a number of tour groups have cancelled their trips at the last minute as a result of the recent floods and landslides (you can read all about that in my blog post here). From Naran, the road north goes over the Babusar Top high pass, which is a seasonal road that closes in winter. The hotel we were re-booked into, has also closed early, only letting Asif know a couple of hours ago. After numerous phone calls and using some of his contacts, Asif has managed to find us yet another hotel at very short notice.

Northern Retreat Hotel

The hotel is nice and modern, but certainly doesn’t appear to be overbooked.

The lobby

There are some interesting artifacts around with a nod to the British Empire days.

Some of the staff ask to have their photo taken with us before we go to our room.

We have a large double and a single bed

Dinner

Being on a hill far from any other civilisation, the hotel restaurant is the only choice for dinner. The room is in darkness as we enter, but a couple of members of staff spring into action as soon as we arrive, with lights being turned on, and menus appearing.

My chicken malai handi is mild and creamy with strips of ginger and cashew nuts

David's Lahori Chicken Karahi is quite spicy with chicken on the bone

We share a tandoori naan to go with it. As the restaurant has no Coke, Pepsi, Fanta, or 7Up, just local drinks, we stick to water.

Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this incredible tour of Northern Pakistan.