A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about anhinga

Cristalino - Birds, Otters and Tapir

Another day, another boat trip


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

We go out in the boat with Gui again at first light to see what nature has to offer us today.

large_58d9ecc0-16fc-11ed-be55-ebf9cc47a4b4.jpg
Great Black Hawk

large_57ed90f0-16fc-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Amazon Kingfisher

Tapir
With great excitement, Gui points out a tapir swimming along the bank.

large_9ed8ee60-16fc-11ed-bd16-6f37adf3c236.jpg

We follow him as he continues along the shoreline until he eventually exits the water and disappears into the jungle.

large_588d0540-16fc-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg

large_582c47a0-16fc-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg

large_595892a0-16fc-11ed-bd16-6f37adf3c236.jpg

large_58df6b00-16fc-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg

large_58bb4130-16fc-11ed-a8ab-0328631d5faa.jpg

My animal wish list for this trip is now complete: jaguar, giant river otter, capybara, agouti, armadillo, anteater, and tapir. I am a very happy bunny!

large_a2599430-16fd-11ed-bd16-6f37adf3c236.jpg
Pale Vented Pigeon

large_c27b2260-16fd-11ed-bf2c-b141e48b4a84.jpg
Long Nosed Bats

large_a273abe0-16fd-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
A very shy otter

large_a1fef110-16fd-11ed-bd16-6f37adf3c236.jpg
Southern Rough Winged Swallow

large_a310fd50-16fd-11ed-bef5-21854a1074ae.jpg
Black Fronted Nunbird

large_a241ed80-16fd-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
White Bellied Parrot

large_a23199d0-16fd-11ed-bd16-6f37adf3c236.jpg
Blue and yellow Macaw

large_57eda610-16fe-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Red Throated Piping Guan

large_41790d70-16fe-11ed-bf2c-b141e48b4a84.jpg
Anhinga drying its wings

Beach
I never expected to see beautiful sandy beaches here in the Amazon - these have become exposed as a result of the dropping water level. The lodge arranges excursions to the beach for swimming and canoeing – having seen numerous caiman and the teeth of the otters, and knowing that there are piranhas in the river, I think I will give it a miss.

large_41b29400-16fe-11ed-bf2c-b141e48b4a84.jpg

large_424907a0-16fe-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_41544760-16fe-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Blue Grey Tanager

large_41bad160-16fe-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Southern Lapwing

large_41301d90-16fe-11ed-bf2c-b141e48b4a84.jpg
Osprey

large_1fa34a20-16ff-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Pied Lapwing

large_1ff62510-16ff-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Muscovy Ducks

large_1ffd29f0-16ff-11ed-90ba-812028a9b0e2.jpg
Neotropic Cormorants

large_1f2dcc00-16ff-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Another dragonfly lands briefly on the boat

large_1f61d450-16ff-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Yellow Billed Tern

large_20016fb0-16ff-11ed-b630-b5f45c8b3114.jpg
Black Caracara

large_1f38ef90-16ff-11ed-bd16-6f37adf3c236.jpg
Blue and Yellow Macaws

large_7e876f30-16ff-11ed-b630-b5f45c8b3114.jpg
Greater Yellow Headed Vulture

White Throated Mango
The captain pulls up at a shrub on a small island, with a labyrinth of criss-crossing branches. I can see no sign of life. Gui uses his laser pointer to draw our eyes to a small green patch, well hidden inside the bush. A beautiful hummingbird on her nest.

large_7e98d450-16ff-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg

“How on earth did you manage to spot that?” I ask Gui. He explains that he went out with a scientist last week, who had a heat-spotting device that helped them locate nests such as this.

large_7e86d2f0-16ff-11ed-90ba-812028a9b0e2.jpg
Southern Rough Wing Swallow

large_7e9e5290-16ff-11ed-bd16-6f37adf3c236.jpg
Swallow Wing Puffbird

large_7ed08620-16ff-11ed-88d4-7fb3dce08539.jpg
Striated Heron

Back to the lodge.

large_d493d390-1700-11ed-bd16-6f37adf3c236.jpg

Gui has arranged for me to get a taxi (the luggage truck) back to the room again, while David takes the long route via the shop which is near the restaurant. I ran out of deodorant this morning, so am looking to replace it. The shop does not keep any in stock but Gui arranges for someone in town to nip out and buy one for me, and they will send it with this afternoon's boat carrying new guests.

My diarrhoea has returned with a vengeance (it has never really gone, but has been manageable until now), so instead of going to lunch, I take some Ciprofloxacin and go to bed for the afternoon.

Dinner
Feeling considerably better, I decide to brave some food this evening. Dinner is served as a buffet tonight, much to my disappointment. At least it means no-one will notice if I don't eat much.

large_96863f60-1701-11ed-aa15-f70db530a80a.jpg

large_968e55b0-1701-11ed-ae79-2db3e6c9b930.jpg

large_9686b490-1701-11ed-bf90-3b7286dfe4f8.jpg

large_96c67cb0-1701-11ed-b23f-e975e1f9c73d.jpg

large_966c75d0-1701-11ed-9700-9582a6c68c9b.jpg
The guava souffle for dessert is incredibly light and very nice indeed

While we are sitting at the table eating our dinner, the waiter comes over and plonks a deodorant in front of me. Great!

large_964a47d0-1701-11ed-aeec-1b1127f8a8e2.jpg

I message Gui to let him know it has arrived.

large_962e3450-1701-11ed-ae47-670d2483c5a7.jpg

Goodnight from Cristalino and thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip.

large_715318e0-1705-11ed-8f6b-516a7b7be0fd.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 23:06 Archived in Brazil Tagged wildlife beach river safari parrot swimming hawk brazil birding brasil luxury duck boating amazon pigeon mango south_america bats buffet tapir osprey tanager heron vulture anhinga caracara guan kingfisher macaw cormorant dragonfly diarrhea bird_watching hummingbird otter boat_safari undiscovered_destinations swallow tern lapwing diarrhoea wildlife_photography puffbird cristalino nunbird cristalino_lodge ciprofloacin Comments (2)

Amazon Day One - chasing swallows and otters mating

Such a privilege


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

The room finally cooled enough for me to put the covers on at 01:00. The alarm is set for 05:00, but I am awake from 03:00 anyway.

Boat Safari
Like Araras, the activities here at Cristalino revolve mostly around trekking, but because of my bad knee, Gui has arranged boat safaris instead.

It is still dark when we go out at 07:00, so not good for photography.

large_af7a4580-15c5-11ed-8231-272219761e25.jpg
Amazon Kingfisher

The sun soon comes up, though, giving me more light to work with.

large_c55499f0-15c5-11ed-8231-272219761e25.jpg
Red Throated Piping Guan

large_c56c40a0-15c5-11ed-9391-837b432495c3.jpg
Green Kingfisher

large_c5d67420-15c5-11ed-8231-272219761e25.jpg
Great Black Hawk

The guests that are staying here at Cristalino Lodge are mostly a combination of families looking for adventure, and avid bird watchers. Not sure where we fit into that.

large_ab6ec5d0-15b9-11ed-a2d4-99e4bab767b3.jpg

Long Nosed Bats
With clever camouflage, these bats attach themselves to the bark of a tree, hiding from the Bat Falcon.

large_c5c02d00-15c5-11ed-9391-837b432495c3.jpg

This caiman is also very well camouflaged amongst the logs and rocks in the river.

large_c58a01d0-15c5-11ed-8231-272219761e25.jpg

large_87ec54c0-163a-11ed-b22b-d19dee7c69c3.jpg
Sunbittern

White Winged Swallow
I spend ages trying to make this little chap fly, but he is not very cooperative, and when he finally does take off, I am not ready with my camera.

large_066cdd00-163c-11ed-ac16-57435785f16c.jpg

I follow him to his next perch.

large_254f8d20-163d-11ed-b1a1-f1a9623197c0.jpg

After hanging around for ages, I yet again miss him taking off. I give up for now.

Until I see a couple of a rock, that is!

large_b124f590-1644-11ed-9f73-d50a220f581c.jpg

large_b1443d60-1644-11ed-b381-d9073b73d170.jpg
Green Ibis

large_cfcb2e60-1644-11ed-b381-d9073b73d170.jpg
White Banded Swallow

large_e18ecfd0-1649-11ed-928d-158408f3e7a6.jpg
Swallow Winged Puffbird

We are now at the beginning of the dry season here in the Southern Amazon, so the level of the river is slowly going down. You can see just how much lower the water is already.

large_e1d108f0-1649-11ed-9bcf-d5c2f576a5ef.jpg

These rocks are completely submerged in the rainy season.

large_e1b28470-1649-11ed-ab8e-3d16751dbe2d.jpg

It certainly makes for challenging navigation and heightens my admiration for our skilled captain.

large_8a9062f0-164b-11ed-ad83-53627b7b338c.jpg
Blue and Yellow Macaws

large_dc4bbcb0-164c-11ed-ab8e-3d16751dbe2d.jpg
Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_23c43790-1650-11ed-8e14-53e4e57c1795.jpg
Spectacled Caiman

large_1f5544b0-1650-11ed-8e14-53e4e57c1795.jpg
Anhinga

large_3e783cb0-1652-11ed-ba8a-abe5030b7080.jpg
Scarlet Macaws

large_efb354b0-1652-11ed-b93c-6f870ce7570c.jpg
Capped Heron

large_ecc3e070-1653-11ed-96fd-35d16a36f881.jpg
Plumbeous Kite

We spend most of our time motoring gently along the shady side of the river. David and I agree how incredibly privileged we are to be here, doing this.

large_a38ed9c0-1656-11ed-a537-3b3db5501f4d.jpg
Amazon Taricaya Turtle

large_7bbd4200-1657-11ed-ab7e-9555550eab3d.jpg
Green Ibis

A dragonfly lands on the boat, and I try – not altogether successfully – to capture it before it flies off.

large_b91c5470-165b-11ed-9096-f3004554992a.jpg

Neotropic River Otters
We see a couple of otters mating.

large_ce793750-1662-11ed-a1b6-c950c17523ab.jpg

It looks like this one is in the throes of passion.

large_cf427ac0-1662-11ed-bdc0-51149494000e.jpg

Rapids
Where the water level has gone down, and rocks have become exposed, a number of rapids have developed.

large_2537f790-166b-11ed-8a9a-550fe66d4540.jpg

large_25216250-166b-11ed-9451-736c356d26c0.jpg

Look at how that water glistens in the sun!

The moving water attracts birds and is fun to navigate – for us. Again I admire the captain and his experience and knowledge as he steers us safely up the river.


large_251e7c20-166b-11ed-b3e1-47f94aa97c6a.jpg
Capped Heron

large_24fc7530-166b-11ed-ad59-d718b864ad67.jpg

large_24f1ede0-166b-11ed-8a9a-550fe66d4540.jpg

large_9f9b8810-166d-11ed-be29-0b58dfca0736.jpg
Southern Rough Winged Swallow

Back to Cristalino Lodge
We return to the lodge mid-morning, where Gui has arranged for me to have a ride back to the room in the electric luggage buggy in order to save my knee. I sit on the flatbed at the back, while David joins the driver in the front.

large_8aba8060-1670-11ed-87d5-cfa7d7b35682.jpg

large_959a50a0-1670-11ed-be75-6d8dc34ff400.jpg

We chill in the room and later on the patio before lunch

large_95bbe260-1670-11ed-bcda-d1a829593241.jpg
An unusual rocking chair


Lunch
This oppressive 38 °C heat is making me feel lethargic, and I struggle to muster up the energy to walk to the restaurant for lunch.

Cristalino Cream of Tartar: with tomatoes, red onions and green herbal oil, plantains, Dijon mustard, capers, and ginger. Served with banana chips.

large_94f02df0-1670-11ed-87d5-cfa7d7b35682.jpg
Very refreshing, quite sweet, tastes predominately of banana

Regional spaghetti dish with cured beef, tomatoes, and orange sauce

large_95ea6c70-1670-11ed-9f40-db057c2a29ee.jpg
Very nice

Banana Crumble
large_953ec320-1670-11ed-87d5-cfa7d7b35682.jpg
Yum! Must try this at home!

We opt out of taking an excursion this afternoon due to the heat, my knee, and David's sore throat; instead, we snooze for the afternoon before I drag myself to dinner. It doesn't feel any cooler after the sun has gone down. This heat is really getting to me.

Dinner
We start with a drink, while we wait for the food to arrive.

large_ebddc330-1674-11ed-9c81-6bcae3dddd34.jpg
Passion Fruit Caipirinha

large_ebcea800-1674-11ed-9b53-ddf032d1ea1c.jpg
David's beer even has its own small ice bucket

large_ebf9d6b0-1674-11ed-a4bd-81fb8b4e062d.jpg
Courgette hash with a poached egg - dry and tasteless

large_ec25a1a0-1674-11ed-9c81-6bcae3dddd34.jpg
Cristalino salad: seasonal leaves, pickled red onion with mustard seeds, cherry tomato confit, cucumbers, pickled palm heart, olives, red cabbage, served with savoury granola. The dish is overly salty (which is saying something as I love a bit of food with my salt), the crunchy topping is nice though

large_ec478180-1674-11ed-a4bd-81fb8b4e062d.jpg
Savoury Granola

large_ec3b2570-1674-11ed-a356-331a035790c6.jpg
Tucupi risotto and smoked catfish: rice, tucupi (cassava broth), jambu (paracress), Grana Padano cheese, and catfish smoked in cashew and blackberry leaves.

large_ebf85010-1674-11ed-a356-331a035790c6.jpg
Brazil nut mousse - I am not at all keen on this dish

And so to bed. Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip for us.

large_b1dc4160-1675-11ed-a4bd-81fb8b4e062d.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 18:39 Archived in Brazil Tagged birds wildlife kite hammock dinner safari hawk brazil lunch birding luxury amazon bats turtle caiman heron anhinga ibis rapids guan kingfisher macaw dragonfly bird_watching otter boat_safari dry_season undiscovered_destinations swallow wildlife_photography river_safari puffbird cristalino sunbittern water_level Comments (5)

Araras Day Two - Bridge 3, Armadillos, night safari

Exciting morning, slow afternoon


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

It's a very early start this morning – we are up at 04:15, and leave the lodge at 05:00. Roberto wants to catch the sunrise!

large_c481da00-13eb-11ed-b1a3-d1aa568419ee.jpg

large_a1cfcf30-13e6-11ed-b945-5bfb6cb40771.jpg

The sky takes on a fiery red this morning, painting everything with a surreal warm glow.

large_a2147950-13e6-11ed-b33d-c5d85bd10ecb.jpg

large_a22d7f90-13e6-11ed-8456-8b3e72a435e9.jpg
Capybara crossing the road

large_55504680-13eb-11ed-8ffc-dbd88f3ed76c.jpg

large_e0803da0-13e6-11ed-8456-8b3e72a435e9.jpg
Dust on the bushes along the side of the road

large_dbe002c0-1400-11ed-a7c8-93c29cdde39f.jpg
It hasn't rained for well over three weeks here

While getting up so early for the beautiful sunrise and the flaming red in the sky is tremendous, it does mean that there is still not much light for bird photography by the time we reach the pond at Bridge Number Three (which goes on to become my favourite spot in the area). While the colour in the sky – reflected on the ground – is sensational, the quality and detail of the images are anything but.

A number of birds fly over us, heading to a spot to chill for the day.

large_e0a259b0-13e8-11ed-b9fd-0bbcf95b6ec6.jpg
Black Bellied Whistling Ducks

large_6de16110-13ec-11ed-b1a3-d1aa568419ee.jpg
Snail Kite

large_c8332cc0-13ec-11ed-b1a3-d1aa568419ee.jpg
Jabiru

Black Skimmer
These birds fascinate me – their lower mandible is larger than the top one, allowing them to skim the surface of the water for small fish or insects.

large_e0632dd0-13e8-11ed-b9fd-0bbcf95b6ec6.jpg

I am captivated by this, and watch them for ages, just whooshing from one side to the other, around and around.

large_fb7040b0-13f0-11ed-9a3e-1916da0b331a.jpg

As the sun gets higher on the horizon, the light gets brighter, and the deep colours fade, making it easier for photography as the day goes on.

large_4a19e310-13f1-11ed-9a3e-1916da0b331a.jpg
Caiman

large_91b1b7b0-13f2-11ed-9a3e-1916da0b331a.jpg
Little Blue Heron

large_08f603a0-13f1-11ed-9a3e-1916da0b331a.jpg
Wood Stork and Snowy Egret

large_50ddb080-13f3-11ed-82ac-5bf58fc99d34.jpg
Little Blue Heron

large_08be03b0-13f1-11ed-9a3e-1916da0b331a.jpg
Black Bellied Whistling Ducks

large_5fb3f2d0-13f4-11ed-b464-ff06480a9f09.jpg
Lesser Yellow Hooded Vulture

large_f8579230-13f4-11ed-b464-ff06480a9f09.jpg
Boat Billed Heron

large_625c12f0-13f5-11ed-b464-ff06480a9f09.jpg
Anhinga

large_7bb140d0-13f6-11ed-b613-051dd9040007.jpg
Greater Kiskadee

large_dabb8b80-13f6-11ed-b613-051dd9040007.jpg
Black Collared Hawk

large_3115b730-13f7-11ed-b613-051dd9040007.jpg
Immature Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_996200a0-13f7-11ed-b613-051dd9040007.jpg
Adult Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_19ca9f40-13f8-11ed-b613-051dd9040007.jpg
Roadside Hawk

large_59255770-13f8-11ed-b613-051dd9040007.jpg
Black Collared Hawk

large_b9f32410-13f8-11ed-b613-051dd9040007.jpg
Capybara

large_346ce690-13f9-11ed-96f1-898b062d260a.jpg
Wattled Jacana

large_356f9410-13fa-11ed-a81c-1befa2802cbe.jpg
Guira Cuckoo

large_f1db3460-13fa-11ed-a81c-1befa2802cbe.jpg
Black Capped Donacobius

large_640435f0-13fb-11ed-a81c-1befa2802cbe.jpg
Black Howler Monkeys. Only the males are black, the females are golden brown.

large_1a13b960-13fc-11ed-a81c-1befa2802cbe.jpg
Rhea

large_acee0600-13fc-11ed-a81c-1befa2802cbe.jpg
Muscovy Duck - the oldest domesticated duck in the world (although this one is wild)

large_cd3b1b90-13fd-11ed-a4ac-c5b7d701fa4a.jpg
Great Egret

large_4c065de0-13fe-11ed-aaa9-c50d7896adcf.jpg
Brazilian Teal

large_c10fa690-13ff-11ed-a7c8-93c29cdde39f.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_19d6e530-1401-11ed-a7c8-93c29cdde39f.jpg
Snail Kite

large_5b1dae90-1404-11ed-b651-4969005c96d7.jpg
She's got a snail!

large_464cd380-1407-11ed-9478-f56fa2e7a297.jpg
Monk Parakeet nest

They are everywhere on the trees and the ground around here

large_40e448f0-1408-11ed-9478-f56fa2e7a297.jpg

large_6df9ebf0-1409-11ed-a924-7f460764adf5.jpg

large_c99d7a10-140b-11ed-8962-cb8582e8611e.jpg

large_66326a20-1407-11ed-9478-f56fa2e7a297.jpg
Roadside Hawk

large_45fb5820-1407-11ed-9478-f56fa2e7a297.jpg
Savanna Hawk

large_bbe36b40-140c-11ed-86a3-6b75bc325bc7.jpg
And a nearby juvenile

large_dcc77860-1407-11ed-9478-f56fa2e7a297.jpg
Maguari Stork

large_633639c0-140a-11ed-8808-0724459833c8.jpg
Limpkin

large_cd587ee0-140e-11ed-9cd1-97a5203b629f.jpg
Blue Fronted Piping Guan

large_1e4d97e0-140f-11ed-9cd1-97a5203b629f.jpg
Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_b00c3b50-140f-11ed-9cd1-97a5203b629f.jpg
Black Tailed Marmoset

large_4f7f0f40-1411-11ed-917e-89fb49da0957.jpg
Chaco Chachalaca

The Chachalaca are such noisy birds, we hear them in the morning at the resort.

large_fc4ba990-1411-11ed-9b4c-4bdfc034a8e7.jpg

large_b4716d60-1413-11ed-83c2-9d05a22fbceb.jpg
Neotropic Cormorant drying his wings, his wet feathers glistening in the sun

We return to the lodge for breakfast, I can't believe it is only 9 o'clock, considering the number of birds and animals we've seen already.

Later this morning I take a walk around the grounds to see what birds are around.

large_edcebd80-14a2-11ed-a938-430d264af806.jpg
Chaco Chachalaca

large_ed792370-14a2-11ed-b2be-0bac2c6f68b4.jpg
Yellow Billed Cardinal

large_ed556ed0-14a2-11ed-80c3-01eec5cf9f1f.jpg
Greater Kiskadee

large_ed0bbba0-14a2-11ed-886d-991669d512bf.jpg
Saffron Finch

I join Tina, a German lady, and Alexandria, her local guide, for a cool drink in the shade. Tina, in her own words, is on a “one-woman mission to show the world that Germans do have a sense of humour”. By sheer coincidence, Alexandria is the sister of Julinha, the pilot who flew us here. It's a small world.

Lunch
The barman has got the message that we like to sit out on the patio rather than under the straw roof for lunch. It is less to do with the roof keeping the heat in and that area being crowded, and more to do with the fact that the tables on the patio have proper chairs with backrests rather than the picnic-style benches.

Jeep Safari
For our afternoon excursion today, we head off-road opposite the lodge rather than along the Transpantaneira. Initially, there is not much to see, but then Roberto spots something in the dry grass.

Armadillo
We follow this little guy for quite some time as he munches his way across the field.

large_a8f4f010-14a4-11ed-a157-bb70a26afe4a.jpg

He rarely looks up from his food.

large_a8e22b60-14a4-11ed-8f51-cb1b90921a2f.jpg

Red Legged Siema

large_d42b6840-14a4-11ed-a157-bb70a26afe4a.jpg

large_d37b5220-14a4-11ed-a157-bb70a26afe4a.jpg

Crab-Eating Fox
We see a couple of foxes lurking around the edge of the field.

large_d636a190-14a4-11ed-8f51-cb1b90921a2f.jpg

large_d5c9d600-14a4-11ed-8f51-cb1b90921a2f.jpg

large_d5754d60-14a4-11ed-8f51-cb1b90921a2f.jpg

Stopping to photograph the sunset, we make our way back to the lodge as the light fades fast.

large_bba1b5d0-14a5-11ed-a157-bb70a26afe4a.jpg

large_baa55470-14a5-11ed-a157-bb70a26afe4a.jpg

large_bb75eae0-14a5-11ed-a153-2961be2b82b3.jpg

large_bb704590-14a5-11ed-a157-bb70a26afe4a.jpg

large_d5068600-14a4-11ed-a157-bb70a26afe4a.jpg
Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_d5422f70-14a4-11ed-a157-bb70a26afe4a.jpg
Capybara

Dinner
It's the job of our favourite barman to decide who sits where at meal times, and this evening he has placed us with a lovely Brazilian couple from São Paulo and their two young children.

While the buffet dinner is nothing special, the milk pudding with a fruit (plum?) sauce is delicious.

large_a7e351a0-14a7-11ed-b0a8-8bba6eb78aee.jpg

Night Safari
At 20:00, we go out for a night safari to get a different perspective of the Pantanal wildlife. To be honest, the trip is probably not worth it. The only wildlife we see is two rabbits and a rhea, plus domesticated buffalo and zebu cows.

Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip.

large_811d4040-1415-11ed-9f0e-2d899ebaea00.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 19:37 Archived in Brazil Tagged animals monkeys bird sunrise kite safari hawk brazil birding brasil ducks south_america caiman dust heron stork vulture anhinga parakeet egrets cormorant capybara howler_monkeys birds_nest bird_watching rhea teal jacana undiscovered_destinations wildlife_photography kiskadee skimmer black_howler_monkeys araras birds_of_brazil no_rain jaribu donacobius marmoset black_tailed_maromset chacalaca Comments (0)

Porto Jofre Morning Safari Day Two

Exploring further afield


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

We have a later start this morning: breakfast at 05:30, leave at 06:30. David is still feeling pretty rough, so again decides to stay behind when Roberto and I go off.

Having already seen eight jaguars (including the one at dinner the first night), we head to a different location this morning.

large_396cb350-117e-11ed-b928-17654d84d72d.jpg

The scene may look idyllic, but the water is dirty and certainly not good for swimming as there are a number of dangers lurking under the surface: caiman, piranha, and sweet-water stingray to mention a few.

large_38a82ad0-117e-11ed-b86a-bd631b1dddec.jpg

Capybara
These giant guinea pigs are the world's largest rodents, at twice the size of the beaver.

large_82430920-1184-11ed-830c-c92343ac37e3.jpg

The most interesting thing about capybara is that they are known to eat their poo in the mornings.

large_821c4740-1184-11ed-beef-ed1b4a3ab89f.jpg

I am disappointed that we don't see them do this (I think). We do see one of the youngsters drinking, however.

large_81d52c20-1184-11ed-beef-ed1b4a3ab89f.jpg

large_81be6fd0-1184-11ed-830c-c92343ac37e3.jpg
Pied Lapwing

large_ebe52920-1185-11ed-830c-c92343ac37e3.jpg
Amazon Kingfisher

large_6269a020-1187-11ed-9be2-97cedb4ed962.jpg
Wood Stork

large_3e3441f0-1188-11ed-9ab8-3b9e3c77bee2.jpg
Great Egret

large_57632320-1189-11ed-b6c9-4b1e4823a1b3.jpg
Roseate Spoonbill

large_9fb52000-118a-11ed-92e3-d3827be4404e.jpg
Black Crowned Night Heron

large_0ed33610-118c-11ed-9c24-8757d17f35aa.jpg
Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_972dacc0-118c-11ed-9c24-8757d17f35aa.jpg
Greater Ani trying to hide

Black Howler Monkeys
Today we see the male – which is actually black – as well as the golden-coloured female we saw yesterday.

large_ce037f30-118d-11ed-b1b2-8763511f2620.jpg

large_ce0553f0-118d-11ed-9252-3b49d3280f9c.jpg

large_d3864bb0-1190-11ed-86bf-0d460c6d59f7.jpg

large_a3298210-1191-11ed-85c3-dd1c4fcf93a6.jpg

One of the females has a baby on her back!

large_c9a0cf10-1192-11ed-b4ea-0f81bd942b8f.jpg

large_06099440-118f-11ed-b1b2-8763511f2620.jpg
Golden Tegu Lizard

large_862b76d0-1198-11ed-85b0-d19ea1bae735.jpg
Green Iguana

large_1f8d3610-1199-11ed-8d5d-61d87ee227df.jpg
More Capybara

Caiman
There are caimans everywhere!

large_38670320-117e-11ed-b86a-bd631b1dddec.jpg

large_d37f7aa0-11a0-11ed-bd38-cf6bc692d925.jpg

This guy is a real giant of a grandaddy!

large_db127bc0-119e-11ed-af2a-0110177dc3ae.jpg

I didn't realise until today, that caiman (and crocodiles) have no tongue as such. Well, technically they do, but the tongue is held in place at the roof of the mouth by a membrane. Because caimans spend so much time underwater, the tongue helps keep the throat closed, protecting the animal's airway. Unlike other species, the tongue plays no part in feeding.

large_dae59f60-119e-11ed-acf2-49efe8316a9f.jpg

This poor guy is missing the tip of his tail – he could have had an encounter with a jaguar, or possibly even one of his own. Caimans have been known to turn to cannibalism.

large_8dd27550-11bb-11ed-b5da-7391502e3318.jpg

large_4a47f4f0-11a1-11ed-a3e2-1fa95f27c98d.jpg
More Capybara

large_95261060-11a1-11ed-a3e2-1fa95f27c98d.jpg
Jabiru

Nesting Site
We arrive in an area where almost every tree has a birds' nest. It is a beautiful, peaceful place with lots of tall trees offering shade, and we are the only people here, so I ask if we can just hang around for a while.

large_3d992f10-11b7-11ed-95fd-97ecad776e6a.jpg

large_3d2f97d0-11b7-11ed-95fd-97ecad776e6a.jpg

large_54289e80-11be-11ed-869e-1d33e76275c6.jpg
Jabiru on her nest

I try to photograph some of the numerous birds flying above the canopies, without a great deal of success.

large_75fe4220-11ba-11ed-b5da-7391502e3318.jpg
Large Billed Tern

large_57a657c0-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
Lesser Yellow Hooded Vulture

large_579a70e0-11b7-11ed-b5ec-e52cd38ed7f3.jpg
Southern Caracara

large_56e8d420-11b7-11ed-95fd-97ecad776e6a.jpg
Neotropic Cormorant

I have a bit more luck with the perched birds.

large_90c76f30-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
Anhinga

large_909080b0-11b7-11ed-b9be-cbe526c0908f.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_90a2d030-11b7-11ed-b5ec-e52cd38ed7f3.jpg
Lesser Kiskadee

large_90db6c60-11b7-11ed-b9be-cbe526c0908f.jpg
Southern Caracara

large_c734d850-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
Cormorant and Anhinga

large_c74f3e20-11b7-11ed-b9be-cbe526c0908f.jpg
The Anhinga is not happy

large_c6a2d180-11b7-11ed-b9be-cbe526c0908f.jpg
She has more than her hands full with feeding her young. I am amazed at how far down her throat the youngster sticks his head!

large_c6b3e880-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
His brother tries to muscle in on the action.

large_c6ef91f0-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
Enough is enough!

We move on to see what else nature has to offer us today.

large_2a622350-11b9-11ed-96c7-177d6b7f844a.jpg
More Capybara

large_263d0ab0-11b9-11ed-96c7-177d6b7f844a.jpg
Southern Screamer

large_ddbe9f40-11ba-11ed-b5da-7391502e3318.jpg
Jabiru

large_d551dff0-11bc-11ed-8335-43de3788f1b3.jpg
Black Collared Hawk

large_6578cc60-11bd-11ed-8335-43de3788f1b3.jpg
Bare Faced Ibis

large_3ed14040-11bf-11ed-9808-5b33a233383c.jpg
Black Crowned Night Heron

large_62872de0-11c1-11ed-be7f-f984be4ecc4a.jpg
Green Iguana

large_02e05fa0-11c2-11ed-be7f-f984be4ecc4a.jpg

large_2a987f20-11c5-11ed-8f91-b3720ff0ee62.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_a218b0b0-11c5-11ed-ad40-bff75f45c3a2.jpg
Another Jabiru - this large bird is the symbol of Pantanal

We return to the lodge for another buffet lunch.

large_dfcdd9c0-11c6-11ed-aa0f-5f17cf45d6e5.jpg

Goodbye from Porto Jofre for now. Thank you Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip.

large_f10bb820-11c5-11ed-ad40-bff75f45c3a2.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 13:01 Archived in Brazil Tagged animals boat wildlife safari iguana hawk brazil brasil south_america caiman heron egret stork vulture anhinga ibis spoonbill caracara kingfisher ani cormorant pantanal capybara howler_monkeys bird_watching boat_safari jabiru porto_jofre green_iguana undiscovered_destinations tern lapwing wildlife_photography kiskadee monekeys black_howler_monkeys birds_nests screamer Comments (2)

Porto Jofre Morning Safari Day One

A good start!


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

I had a dreadful night: my shoulder, back, wrist, knee, pelvis, and ankle were all hurting at some stage, and my stomach felt very unsettled (I still have the runs); while David spent the night coughing and blowing his nose. I finally give in and get up just after 04:00.

David decides to stay in bed for the morning, so I go out with Roberto in a boat to see if we can find any jaguars. The Pantanal is said to have the world's highest density of these beautiful cats, and Porto Jofre is known as Jaguar Central, so I am hoping we'll get lucky.

large_601a1d30-0e9a-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg

We agreed quite early on at the planning stage that we didn't want to be in a group (too many bad experiences as a photographer on group tours), so we paid extra and upgraded to a private tour. Seeing some of the bigger boats with up to 12 people in them, I am grateful for the small four-seater boat with me, Roberto and Captain Dinio.

large_5f1b98f0-0e9a-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg

We leave the hotel before dawn, and the sunrise is beautiful with the early morning mist hanging over the water! It is surprisingly cold this morning with the wind from the moving boat. I am glad I listened to Roberto and put a wind-proof jacket on!

large_144ace80-0e9b-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg

large_140d7760-0e9b-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg

large_141a48a0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg

large_14688fb0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg

We are heading in a leisurely fashion towards an area where jaguars were spotted yesterday, stopping to photograph the birds and animals we see along the way.

large_ab86eea0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Bat Falcon

large_abb5ede0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Pied Lapwings making baby lapwings

large_aba747e0-0e9b-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Black Skimmer

large_d6bc7c70-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Large Billed Tern

large_efd24cd0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Green Iguana

All the boat captains are in touch via radio, and we get word that some guests from the hotel have seen a family of five otters, so we decide to go there to check it out.

It seems to take forever to get there, as the captain is very courteous and slows right down every time we pass fishermen in their boats. I worry that the otters will be gone by the time we get there.

Giant River Otters
The otters are still around, eating fish. They are quite large (I guess there's a hint in the name), and they have viciously sharp teeth. You can easily hear the crunching of the fish bones as they eat.

large_c4accf20-0e9c-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg

large_c3f58d10-0e9c-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg

large_c3f45490-0e9c-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg

Other Wildlife

large_faddf290-0e9c-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_faaa3860-0e9c-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
White Winged Swallow

large_faac0d20-0e9c-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Wood Stork

large_fb3190d0-0e9c-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Great Egret

large_fb506370-0e9c-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Neotropic Cormorants

large_49728650-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Amazon Kingfisher

large_49fbb380-0e9d-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Black Crowned Night Heron

large_49c53a30-0e9d-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Wattled Jacana

large_49d73b90-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Anhinga drying its wings

large_997cf130-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Caiman

large_991fdd10-0e9d-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Southern Screamer

large_99fca880-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Brown Capuchin

large_996634e0-0e9d-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Crane Hawk

large_c4aba130-0e9d-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Lesser Yellow Hooded Vulture

large_c4a0a4b0-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Toco Toucan

A passing boat indicates to us that they have heard of a sighting, so "hold on to your hats, it is full speed ahead!" Sod the fishermen, this is business!

large_5f264a80-0e9e-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg

Jaguar
The first hint that there is something of interest, is a boat jam!

large_a37fb270-0e9e-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg

At first, I can't spot the cat, as she is doing her best to be camouflaged (very successfully) while she stalks an unsuspecting caiman through the long grass at the riverbank.

large_8d3c9b00-0ea7-11ed-9664-570d6e7b7b2a.jpg

large_8df2cba0-0ea7-11ed-b5f1-8164d4492a9a.jpg

large_8e04a5f0-0ea7-11ed-8e31-d1e7fa43cf21.jpg

Her camouflage skills are better than her hunting skills this morning, however, as she pounces with a menacing growl, the caiman gets away with a large splash at the last minute!

large_8eb38390-0ea7-11ed-adad-49086ffb7efd.jpg

large_d3f21b60-0ea7-11ed-8e31-d1e7fa43cf21.jpg
The look of dejection on her face as the caiman gets away!

The jaguar walks along the bank. We follow.

large_e0fbdb10-0ea8-11ed-9664-570d6e7b7b2a.jpg

She stops. We stop.

large_e0e60920-0ea8-11ed-b5f1-8164d4492a9a.jpg

She turns around. We turn around. We lose sight of her for a while and thinking she might have wandered over to the other side of the peninsula, we check it out. Nope. We return to the original side just as she appears out of the undergrowth.

large_c5b307a0-0eb4-11ed-bfd4-5b7bf471217b.jpg

large_c6745bd0-0eb4-11ed-b2be-014d876dc086.jpg

large_c5a747d0-0eb4-11ed-9ab6-9f69e8df3aab.jpg

large_de3c7680-0eb4-11ed-b2be-014d876dc086.jpg

Soon she gets fed up with sitting on a log and disappears into the undergrowth again.

large_88bba8f0-0eb6-11ed-bfd4-5b7bf471217b.jpg

Our next spotting is one of her two sub-adult cubs in a tree further down the bank.

large_533eebf0-0eb7-11ed-9ab6-9f69e8df3aab.jpg

large_1820d940-0ffa-11ed-89ac-e368c2c2fcc0.jpg

large_1824f7f0-0ffa-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

The other one is hidden in the thicket behind the tree.

large_181a70a0-0ffa-11ed-a853-5b9e23fd9354.jpg

Meanwhile, mum is keeping an eye on them from the riverbank.

large_9ba18d50-0ffa-11ed-89ac-e368c2c2fcc0.jpg

We're all getting roasted by the fierce sun while waiting for further action.

large_9bc82820-0ffa-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

Mum is fidgety and heads along the edge of the river towards where her babies are.

large_deab91e0-0ffa-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

large_ded58810-0ffa-11ed-89ac-e368c2c2fcc0.jpg

large_df04ae60-0ffa-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

She looks straight at us and heads for the water.

large_43dda300-0ffb-11ed-89ac-e368c2c2fcc0.jpg

There is a strict code of conduct for boat safaris in the Pantanal, and keeping at least 25 metres away from any big cats is one of them. When it looks like she is going to swim across the river, all the boat captains move to a respectable distance.

large_441777b0-0ffb-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

As it turns out, she swims away from us along the bank and disappears into the jungle further along.

large_43c69890-0ffb-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

It's time to head back for lunch. Last night Roberto suggested we start at 06:00 this morning, and be back at the hotel between 10:00 and 10:30. It is now 12:30, and lunch is served in half an hour. David must be wondering what on earth has happened to us!

When I get back to the hotel, I find David sitting outside the room. While he is up and about, he does not look well, with his right eye swollen and watering. He tells me he is feeling slightly better and we both go off for some lunch.

large_d0e18b40-1000-11ed-9c06-6964d3bbfd2e.jpg

Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip for us.

large_dc07e330-11e9-11ed-a059-914cf7e2c1e5.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 19:19 Archived in Brazil Tagged wildlife monkey iguana hawk brazil birding brasil toucan heron egret stork vulture anhinga jaguar kingfisher falcon capuchin cormorant pantanal bird_watching otter porto_jofre jacana swallow tern lapwing wildlife_photography undiscovered_destination skimmer river_otter giant_river_otter swollen_eye Comments (2)

Iguaçu - day trip to Argentina

A new day, a new country, a new viewpoint


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

This morning at breakfast, we pick up an extra cookie, which we break up on our table hoping to attract some of the colourful birds. You could say “that's the way the cookie crumbles”. We don't have to wait long before the first visitor arrives.

large_0af9cbe0-09ca-11ed-9855-edf7109a3930.jpg
Saffron Finch

large_0ae5a7a0-09ca-11ed-9df9-974eb4050c6a.jpg
Plush Crested Jay

We deliberately sit at the table nearest the one that staff use as a bird feeding station, despite the seats being outside the covered roof, thus damp from the spray of the falls overnight.

large_0afa6820-09ca-11ed-883e-bb0000a070a9.jpg

Melissa comes along, puts some crumbs in her hand, and a jay almost immediately lands and stuffs its face while perched on her fingers. Apparently, only one bird will eat from the hands, and they have affectionately named it Philhelmina.

large_5b3ad720-09ca-11ed-9855-edf7109a3930.jpg

David tries to do the same, holding his arm out at a right angle for so long it begins to hurt, but he only gets one very quick grab-and-go visit.

large_5add9bf0-09ca-11ed-883e-bb0000a070a9.jpg

large_5b1ffc20-09ca-11ed-883e-bb0000a070a9.jpg

While we wait for Carini to pick us up for today's excursion, we do some more bird watching out the front of the hotel.

large_99057970-09ca-11ed-a8bb-33212fccf616.jpg
Black-fronted piping guan, colloquially known as Jungle Turkey. I can see why.

large_98fc51b0-09ca-11ed-883e-bb0000a070a9.jpg
Southern Lapwing

large_98faa400-09ca-11ed-9855-edf7109a3930.jpg
Scaly headed parrot

We make a quick stop at another viewing platform on the Brazilian side of the falls before continuing.

large_61b86d90-0aad-11ed-b184-2137ba48f8b8.jpg

large_0b55cc90-09e0-11ed-ba04-bf814ffc7837.jpg

Unlike yesterday, which had a reasonably thick cloud cover all, day, today the sun is shining; creating beautiful rainbows over the falls.

large_0b63fd60-09e0-11ed-987c-29035e217583.jpg

Since the start of the Covid Pandemic, the park is closed for cleaning every Monday, so the only people we see today are those who are staying in the Belmond Hotel.

large_0ba1f0c0-09e0-11ed-ba04-bf814ffc7837.jpg

Argentina
From the viewing platform, we continue out of the park and the short distance to the Argentine border. 80% of the falls are in Argentina, and while Brazil has the best views for that very reason, there are some interesting boardwalks on the Argentine side, including one that goes right up to the edge of the most impressive of all the falls, The Devil's Throat.

But first, we have to get into the country.

large_77d31210-0a7b-11ed-b18e-013626b9bba2.jpg

Getting out of Brazil is reasonably quick, but the official at the Argentine immigration claims that we should have filled in and printed out an online application before we arrived. Carini is confused about this, as she came through here last week with British tourists and was not asked for this paper then. “They can be so bureaucratic,” she says. We are sent to a 'special immigration office', but to get there we have to make a U-turn and join the original queue again. Carini is having none of that and opens up a new line by moving some bollards.

large_77b5c610-0a7b-11ed-b622-6570aa27a74a.jpg

Carini is gone for ages, and we can see the official typing away on his keyboard, completing the online forms for us, and we are each issued with a number, which we then take back to the original immigration booth for them to access our online form.

large_7837ee60-0a7b-11ed-97e4-7fe9f2e3da77.jpg

The official studies us intently (David and I have been in the car all this time, letting Carini sort out all the paperwork – that is one of the many reasons we like to have a guide!), before declaring that David's date of birth has been typed in wrong. Sigh.

Being sent back to the 'special immigration office', Carini is at her wit's end, and states that she is prepared to use tears to get what she wants. David and I both burst into song: “Don't cry for me Argentina...”

After one hour and lots of frustration, we are finally in!

The last time we came to the Argentine side of the falls, some 32 years ago, we parked up at the then Sheraton Hotel (now the Grand Meliá) and walked down from there. These days it is very commercialised, very modern, very well organised.

The entrance is huge and the distances great, so Carini arranges a buggy to take me to the train station. Despite there being plenty of room in the buggy, Carini, as a local guide, is not allowed to travel with us, but has to walk.

large_1d6eabf0-0a7f-11ed-a13a-bdd9e86aef48.jpg

Train tickets are timed, and at the station, there is a large waiting area with a souvenir shop and cafeteria.

large_1d1bf810-0a7f-11ed-a13a-bdd9e86aef48.jpg

The announcer is a perfect character for the job, and obviously very funny, as he creates a lot of laughter. It's a shame I can't understand what he is saying. He comes over to me and explains that despite having tickets for the following train, he will not only get me on the next one, but ushers me onto the platform to ensure I get to board first!

large_be4088c0-0a82-11ed-acd6-2195e45f110f.jpg

large_9a239490-0a83-11ed-acd6-2195e45f110f.jpg

At least Carini is allowed to travel with us on the train!

large_bd918410-0a82-11ed-94ea-5b179278e874.jpg

The train makes one stop at the start of the falls, before continuing to the end station and the trail leading to The Devil's Throat.

large_9a70ca30-0a83-11ed-acd6-2195e45f110f.jpg

On the map below, you can see the route from the car park, through the Visitors Centre and Entrance, then the train track down to the station at the end.

large_99da7da0-0a83-11ed-acd6-2195e45f110f.jpg

Last time we only walked the yellow trail along the top of the different cataracts nearest the hotel, so this is an all-new experience for us.

large_6b76ebf0-0a84-11ed-acd6-2195e45f110f.jpg

David and I make a slow start on the boardwalk, while Carini goes off to get a wheelchair for me.

large_38ad60b0-0a88-11ed-b6bf-7f4c7d86412b.jpg

The trail is around a mile in each direction, so theoretically I should be able to do it under my own steam. I don't want to completely ruin my already painful knee at this early stage of the trip, however, so the wheelchair is very welcome when it arrives.

large_385fb5e0-0a88-11ed-b6bf-7f4c7d86412b.jpg

large_01418870-0a8a-11ed-b07f-913734336fc2.jpg

Along the way, we cross little islands while turtles and birds rest on rocks jutting out of the river.

large_6571af60-0a89-11ed-b07f-913734336fc2.jpg

large_656f8c80-0a89-11ed-b913-93611428a4fc.jpg

Arriving at the end of the boardwalk, there are many people and a kind of one-way roundabout system to relieve congestion. It works very well.

large_38549250-0a88-11ed-b913-93611428a4fc.jpg

large_0efee710-0a93-11ed-9023-314964b52c2a.jpg

From a distance, the cascade looks impressive, but that is nothing to how overwhelming the view is once you are literally on the precipice of the falls.

large_2e1a4980-0a8b-11ed-9a5c-235c572e0e8b.jpg

Devil's Throat
The horse-shoe-shaped cataract gets its name from an old legend in which an indigenous chief's daughter, named Naipi, was considered so beautiful that she was able to stop the waters of the Iguaçu River. Learning that her father had offered her to the god M'Boy, she escapes across the river in a canoe with her young warrior lover called Tarobá. M'boy was furious, and in retaliation, opened up a huge chasm in the river, turned Naipi into a rock, and Tarobá into a palm tree at the edge of a nearby abyss. It is said that M'boy stands at this spot to guard over the two young lovers to this day.

large_36b1a0a0-0a9c-11ed-831d-230578ac028e.jpg

Devils Throat is made up of 14 separate powerful waterfalls and at 82 metres, has the highest drop of any of the cataracts in the entire waterfall system; and is also the most photographed.

large_36b52310-0a9c-11ed-b249-978d6f8363d6.jpg

The sheer power of the water tumbling over the edge of the river is mind-blowing, and the spray gets everywhere, as you can see from the video below.


I am forever cleaning my lens!

large_36f64ac0-0a9c-11ed-b249-978d6f8363d6.jpg

The image below, taken from a helicopter, shows just how close to the edge of the waterfall that viewing platform is!

large_4d0215d0-0aa4-11ed-8956-23546a57777e.jpg

The whole experience is totally breathtaking, and I am so mesmerised by the fast-moving water that I don't want to leave!

large_61952e20-0aad-11ed-8658-09589d49d4be.jpg

large_36ff4b70-0a9c-11ed-831d-230578ac028e.jpg

The time has come to return to Brazil, however, and we head back to the train station, where there are as many coati as there are passengers.

large_c876cc60-0a9f-11ed-a5d2-edecdc601691.jpg

large_c8616fa0-0a9f-11ed-b176-49a50c3561dc.jpg

I rename the station Coati Central.

large_c7ac0250-0a9f-11ed-b22f-bd6be4e6ba54.jpg

One of them manages to get into the pushchair storage area of the train, making a passenger in our compartment completely freak out.

The same lovely buggy driver takes us back to the entrance area where we grab a quick burger before returning to the border.

Getting out of Argentina is way easier than getting in! The officials on the Brazilian side want to see our Covid Vaccination certificates – we do have hard copies but didn't think to take them with us today. Doh! We can show digital versions on our phones though, which is good enough for the officers. While David goes with Carini to the office, I stay in the car. They come back for me to find my document on my phone, but by the time they get back to the office with my phone, the screen has blanked and the image 'disappeared'. Thankfully David is able to find it again after some searching.

Insect bites
Both David and I seem to have suffered quite a few insect bites since we've been here at Iguaçu.

large_285ba320-0aa1-11ed-b176-49a50c3561dc.jpg

With David, it is his legs that have been attacked, for me, it is my arms.

large_1fa96140-0aa1-11ed-b176-49a50c3561dc.jpg

The Belmond Tower
I politely decline when David suggests he wants to climb the tower at the hotel, which offers great views over the grounds and the falls beyond. I give him my camera with a fish-eye lens attached and send him on his way.

large_9b20fb00-0abd-11ed-9328-4124f6643cc9.jpg

large_dd1129f0-0aa3-11ed-a0a7-711c48b3a195.jpg
David gets creative while photographing the staircase, and I apply a creative edit

large_dd00af30-0aa3-11ed-99e2-475bd7e81dd7.jpg

large_dd1373e0-0aa3-11ed-8956-23546a57777e.jpg

Sunset
As we are getting ready for dinner, we notice that there is a beautiful sunset this evening.

large_c2ba1510-0aa5-11ed-9058-19ffde111520.jpg

Dinner
Forgetting that Brazilians eat their evening meal much later than we do in the UK, we arrive at the restaurant at 19:00, only to be told that the à la carte dinner is not served until 19:30. We are offered some nachos while we wait.

large_305c3cb0-0aab-11ed-b3e0-c7eebb01a3ec.jpg

Tonight's waitress Ana, is delightful, and we have many laughs. She later comes back to apologise for a joke she told about 'musical condoms', which she feared may have been inappropriate. She obviously does not know our sense of humour.

large_301d5ef0-0aab-11ed-9343-7fdf57761f91.jpg

We order a small pepperoni pizza each, which, when it comes, really is small.

large_30562230-0aab-11ed-b7bd-4bd74e3269fe.jpg

At least it means that we have room for dessert.

large_301ee590-0aab-11ed-991f-f16a8bc7db1f.jpg
David's lemon pie

large_30575ab0-0aab-11ed-9343-7fdf57761f91.jpg
My meringue with berries - I love the design of the plate!

Ana persuades us to try a glass of dessert wine – she suggests two different ones, so we try one each and swap.

large_30581e00-0aab-11ed-8b54-715c44999eb4.jpg

With coffee and liqueurs to follow (Baileys and Cointreau), we are not surprised when the bill for the evening comes to around £200.

large_ab02b480-0aab-11ed-b3e0-c7eebb01a3ec.jpg

Goodnight from Iguaçu and thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip for us.

large_b47c6510-0aab-11ed-b3e0-c7eebb01a3ec.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 15:59 Archived in Brazil Tagged birds sunset tower waterfall dinner rainbow argentina brazil birding pizza iguazu jay south_america cascade helicopter turtle dessert bureaucracy anhinga boardwalk coati immigration iguacu devils_throat wheelchair guan finch spray baileys devil's_throat cataracts fish_eye undiscovered_destinations nachos belmond lapwing insect_bites belmond_hotel_das_cataratas feeding_the-birds lemon_pie meringue cointreau ecological_train torn_ligament lens_cleaning fish_eye_lens dessert_wine Comments (2)

(Entries 1 - 6 of 6) Page [1]