A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about astrophotography

São Tomé - Mucumbili

Sombre history and a west-coast hide-away paradise

-50 °C
View São Tomé and Príncipe 2018 - the Lost Islands in the Centre of the World on Grete Howard's travel map.

Memorial dos Heróis da Liberdade

Yesterday, at Trindade, we saw the memorial at the site of the Batepá Massacre where hundreds of natives were killed by Portuguese forces in 1953 during a rebellion, and Agostinho was telling us how they were “thrown in the sea, like animals”. Today we visit the spot, at Fernão Dias on the north coast, where those murdered were transported by the truckload and their bodies unceremoniously dumped in the sea off the now-defunct pier.

large_23085ab0-64ad-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

A memorial has been erected here too, listing the names of all those killed in the fight for freedom.

large_05860fd0-64aa-11e8-8fd2-5db5a4f313c8.jpg

large_469a5ee0-64aa-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

large_f6159e70-64aa-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

large_fee6da00-64aa-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

An abandoned ship lies off the coast as if to pay tribute to the fallen martyrs.

large_22480d60-64ac-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

Old Tree

We stop beside a tree, more than one hundred years old, for Agostinho to explain how they used to make canoes.

large_b2615350-64ae-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

I am more interested in playing with a young kid who is selling fruit at the side of the road.

large_ba61aa50-64ae-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

large_c224d140-64ae-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

Agostinho Neto

Named after a benevolent Angolan doctor (late president of Angola) who fought fervently in the battle against Portuguese colonialism, the roça (plantation) and surrounding village is now mostly in ruins and lies partly abandoned.

large_459016a0-64b1-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg
The abandoned hospital on the hill

large_ac4ff3b0-64b1-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg
The old botanical gardens is now the governor's house

Many of the picturesque old buildings (these would have been for the managers) have survived and are now in use.

large_31320c80-64b2-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

large_e9460090-64b4-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

large_29e8c920-64b5-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

large_8e871b30-64b4-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

large_4c5e4ee0-64b4-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

Hospital

The old hospital, built as part of the roça (plantation), now lies abandoned, with a number of poorer families having moved into some of its many rooms.

large_01c39320-64b6-11e8-b372-5de39560233b.jpg

Unleashing my inner Urbex (Urban Explorer, a popular genre in photography), I wander around some of the abandoned halls and wards.

large_ccdccd60-64de-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

large_e62ff4e0-64de-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

large_ef5e92b0-64de-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

large_01b78890-64df-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg
Love the home made bicycle

Poverty

Categorised as a 'least developed country', São Tomé is mostly dependent on international aid, and is among the poorest in the world, with more than half of the population living below the poverty line, and 29% in extreme poverty.

large_225b8d30-64df-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

large_2c9e3310-64df-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

Pounding the corn is extremely hard work, and the locals find it very amusing that I would like to have a go.

.

The population of São Tomé is relatively young, with children aged 0 to 14 years representing 44.4% of the population, yet only 38% attend secondary school.

large_3b82c2b0-64df-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

large_441806b0-64df-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

large_4c68c7a0-64df-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

large_5cf49ea0-64df-11e8-ba7f-6b4b48ad6ebd.jpg

Blue Lagoon

This sheltered bay is popular with snorkellers as the pristine waters are teeming with fish.

large_c13b5000-657c-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg

An ancient baobab stands on the beach – those of you who have followed my blog for a while will be aware of how fond I am of baobab trees.

large_cd70c530-657c-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg

Picnic

At a small picnic area, we make a quick stop with coffee, juice, fruit and biscuits.

large_497386c0-657f-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg

This is the place where the Portuguese first arrived back in the 15th century.

large_1ead7910-657e-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg

large_31bfacd0-657e-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg

large_3d4532f0-657e-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg
Star fruit. I explain to Agostinho that, although we buy these fruits in the UK, I have never seen one actually growing; and he promises to look out for a star fruit tree for me.

large_e545ed50-657e-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg
Taiwanese guava, they taste a little like unripe pears.

large_d5efe1c0-657f-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg

large_e2924990-657f-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg

large_94af40a0-6581-11e8-a5a1-ebc357eb970c.jpg
Agostinho calls these carozo nuts, but I believe we know them as 'tropical almonds' (Terminalia catappa). They taste very similar to regular almonds.

Here they are, growing on the tree:

large_faf2a670-659c-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg

large_28f86b40-659d-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg

large_14e3e4b0-6587-11e8-82a7-1984a2bab67a.jpg
Dug-out canoes on the beach

large_6bb7ab30-659d-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg

large_a7f9d8c0-659d-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg

Tunnel

The road hugs the coast on the north-west of the island and at one stage it goes through São Tomé's only tunnel.

large_c7b3cd80-6587-11e8-82a7-1984a2bab67a.jpg

It is a popular place to stop and take photos.

large_e0488700-6587-11e8-82a7-1984a2bab67a.jpg

The coastline here is rugged, with some interesting rock formations and crashing waves.

large_73af06b0-658b-11e8-a544-13c26211e3ad.jpg

large_817d4450-658b-11e8-a544-13c26211e3ad.jpg

large_89f8bec0-658b-11e8-a544-13c26211e3ad.jpg

As we head inland, we pass imposing old plantation houses and more modest wooden chalets.

large_dc974c90-658c-11e8-b259-9971aa718e68.jpg

large_e80f3e20-658c-11e8-b259-9971aa718e68.jpg

large_f07a64e0-658c-11e8-b259-9971aa718e68.jpg

Roça Monte Forté

The old plantation buildings have now been turned into a guest house and restaurant, with a small craft centre and a garden bulging with fruit and vegetables.

large_90165260-6593-11e8-9645-b9d07147af97.jpg

large_9b762810-6593-11e8-9645-b9d07147af97.jpg

large_75a36630-6597-11e8-a303-4d43083140b4.jpg

I love this place, it has so much character. The bedrooms look basic but more than adequate, with a bed, mosquito net and en suite bathroom.

large_7eb9e820-6597-11e8-a303-4d43083140b4.jpg

large_7e40a400-6598-11e8-a303-4d43083140b4.jpg
Basket weaving

large_8b616390-6598-11e8-a303-4d43083140b4.jpg
Cacao fruit

large_9b40f500-6598-11e8-a303-4d43083140b4.jpg
Calabash fruit

large_1d4de610-659f-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg
Cashew fruit - the nut is the curious dark thing hanging down below the fruit

large_38ed6e90-659f-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg
Lemon tree

large_b021a730-6598-11e8-a303-4d43083140b4.jpg

large_9a2cc1b0-659f-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg
Love the modern TV screen on the rickety old veranda.

large_267e3c20-65a0-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg
David takes a pre-lunch snooze while I wander around taking photos.

large_6b0a25c0-65a0-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg
Bananas

large_96c2c640-65a0-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg

large_44757ad0-65a1-11e8-a8a2-13af1f2d31bc.jpg
View from the balcony

This is the sort of place that we love staying in, but unfortunately it is not to be this time, as we are only stopping here for lunch.

large_92bf7100-65a1-11e8-8bf0-15bd98dfd949.jpg

large_34b85390-65a3-11e8-8ec4-97876b3ac879.jpg
Grilled bonito fish with onions

large_4261cb20-65a3-11e8-8ec4-97876b3ac879.jpg
Pumpkin, carrots, cabbage and shoo-shoo (a type of courgette or marrow)

large_643f3a20-65a3-11e8-8ec4-97876b3ac879.jpg
Fried plantain

large_6ee053b0-65a3-11e8-8ec4-97876b3ac879.jpg
Dessert: cashew fruit and papaya

Another first for the Howards: eating the fruit from the cashew nut tree. It is obviously not that common over here either, as Agostinho takes the rest home for his children, who have never tasted it, plus some seeds to grow his own tree in his garden.

large_ad272ae0-65a3-11e8-bc29-fd7363235f9c.jpg

Mucumbili

After a leisurely lunch we make our way to Mucumbili, our fabulous eco-lodge for the night. We check in and are shown to our room, a rustic wooden cabin built on the edge of the wooded cliff, with a balcony on stilts overlooking the valley and ocean beyond.

large_16e768c0-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

large_224087b0-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

large_347d4300-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

large_4268cca0-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

large_4d907b50-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

large_56b86260-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

large_66127020-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

Each cabin has a name rather than a number and I am absolutely thrilled to find that ours is called 'Carambola', meaning star fruit.

large_e9f54160-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

large_f3340bd0-67eb-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

Not only that, we have a star fruit tree right outside!

large_0d8ff0c0-67ec-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

We spend the rest of the afternoon on the balcony with a bottle of chilled white wine, watching the birds and the fishermen.

large_7a9c0c30-67ec-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg
São Tomé Prinia, and endemic to this island

large_9386d4f0-67ec-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
São Tome Speirops, another endemic

large_aef9a820-67ec-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
Southern Cordon Bleu

large_bc6af8b0-67ec-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
São Tomé Sunbird - yet another endemic

large_ace0e4d0-67ed-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
Bronze Mannikin - not a very good photo, but it is the only one I manage to capture as he is hiding behind long grasses

Above us circle a couple of Yellow Billed Kites, and butterflies and lizards abound.

large_ec3b27d0-67ed-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

large_f52c6e80-67ed-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

large_fee91b80-67ed-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

This is my idea of heaven: a gorgeous rustic lodge miles from the nearest habitation, lots of birds and other small critters to keep me amused, a glass of something enjoyable and the man I love with no other human sound (or sight) for hours.

large_4d663a30-67ef-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

large_df0f59d0-67ef-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

What we do hear, however, is a strange clicking sound. We spend a long time trying to work out what it is. After a while it becomes obvious that it is coming from a bird, but which one? Eventually we discover the answer: the small São Tomé Prinia is somehow flapping its wing in a manner to make a fairly loud clicking sound. How bizarre.

large_980f5860-67ee-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
The noisy little prinia

large_acba0670-67ee-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
Northern Cordon Bleu

large_bee29d80-67ee-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
Sao Tomé Speirops

large_d8939c70-67ee-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
Prinia

large_e6552fe0-67ee-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
Cordon Bleu

From our balcony we can see the fish jumping in the sea, causing small ripples on the surface of the water.

large_fab651d0-67ee-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

The fishermen all make their way towards that area, but by the time many of them have reached the spot, the fish have moved on.

large_35dd4b60-67ef-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

large_3e1665a0-67ef-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

Dinner

Dinner is taken in the open-sided restaurant, with each cabin having its own dedicated table.

large_88441cd0-67ef-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

large_92ede8f0-67ef-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg

large_9b0dfcf0-67ef-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
Vegetable soup

large_a63c8970-67ef-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
Pasta with crab, cream and Parmesan cheese

large_b5951090-67ef-11e8-829e-4f9665ebd931.jpg
This is not quite what David was expecting when he ordered 'apple pie'.

After dinner we yet again sit on the balcony for a long while, taking in the sounds and sights of the jungle after dark. There is next to no llight pollution and the stars are out, but unfortunately so are the clouds for a lot of the time.

large_2d5865a0-67f0-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

And so ends another delightful day in paradise. Thank you Undiscovered Destinations.

large_5a32c9d0-67f0-11e8-ab10-d337a43033ab.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 12:27 Archived in Sao Tome and Principe Tagged children birds fish fishing memorial kite paradise tunnel lizard birding fishermen bananas poverty heaven stars hospital baobab cacao rustic abandoned plantations bonito massacre astro martyrs blue_lagoon bird_watching roca eco_lodge undiscovered_destinations calabash astrophotography batepa_massacre prinia endemic_birds vinho_verde fernão_dias memorial_dos_heróis_da_liberdad agostinho_neto urbex abandoned_hospital star_fruit tropical_almonds rugged_coastline roça_monte_forte basket_weaving lemon_tree cashew_nut cashew_fruit mucumbili carambola life_list white_wine cordon_bleu speirops after_dark apple_pie Comments (4)

Free Day in Anjouan

Chilling in the hotel

During breakfast we have a chat with the two British guys and an American girl from the US Peace Corps, who have all been stranded on the island for the last couple of days as a result of the flights being grounded and the ferry not operating due to bad weather.

One of the men has an international flight connection tomorrow morning, and is getting a little concerned that he will miss it. If he has to make other arrangements and stay longer on the islands, he would be struggling, as he has very little cash left and, a very low credit limit on his credit card, and no easy way of getting hold of more cash. While I sympathise with his predicament, it does seem to be a rather irresponsible situation to leave yourself in, especially in a place like Comoros where spanners can – and will – be thrown in the works. He is very well travelled, trying to get to all the countries in Africa before he dies, so I find it all rather odd. I heard Patrice advice him yesterday that they should leave here at 06:00 this morning and go to the airport to sit there all day hoping for a ‘window of opportunity’. “Oh, I won’t be around that early, can you make it 07:30?” he asked Patrice. I find that even more odd – if I was worried about missing my international connection, sleeping in would be the last thing on my mind; I would want to be first in that queue at the airport.

Anyway, we see them all go off this morning, feeling hopeful for a seat on the small 9-seater plane that is flying a shuttle service between Anjouan and Moroni today.

When Patrice arrives, he collects our passports, and after he has taken the others to the airport, he will go and try to and get ferry tickets for us for tomorrow. He tells us he has spoken to the boat captain already this morning, who has assured him that there will be a sailing tomorrow. Inshallah.

Walk?

The area around the hotel is lacking in places of interest or even scenic beauty, with piles of rubble and heaps of trash lining the roads.

large_Mustamudu_Street_Scenes_2.jpg

large_Mustamudu_Street_Scenes_1.jpg

large_Mustamudu_Street_Scenes_3.jpg

large_Mustamudu_Street_Scenes_4.jpg

large_Mustamudu_Street_Scenes_5.jpg

It is too hot to have a longer walk further afield, so we decide to spend the day chilling in the hotel.

Al Amal Hotel

Not being very good at ‘chilling’, I wander around the hotel grounds to look for something to photograph. Anything. Maybe some good macro work? Or an interesting insect?

Nope. The hotel grounds are what you might call sparse. There is no outdoor furniture, no benches, nowhere to sit and enjoy the scenery. It’s pretty bare and rather bleak. I assume this was once a thriving terrace with a cafeteria, tables, chairs, and umbrellas; with stimulating conversation, subdued laughter, iced drinks and colourful cocktails… In the heyday of the hotel maybe? Did it ever have a heyday? I find it hard to imagine.

large_Al_Amal_Ho..race_Area_1.jpg

I walk around the other side of the building to find the few flowers that do dot the grounds.

large_Hibiscus_1.jpg

large_4AEECFEFC89CE24512D2040A6D4AEF6D.jpg

large_Hibiscus_2.jpg

large_4AFCBEF3D842F6C406EF9048290A4269.jpg

large_Frangipane_1.jpg

large_Hibiscus_3.jpg

And the scrawny looking local cat, eyeing me suspiciously.

large_Al_Amal_Hotel_-_Cat.jpg

I do find a sparrow and a carpenter bee as well.

large_4AD58B8EDB1DE2D63298B93D4F1B5B3A.jpg

large_Carpenter_Bee_1.jpg

Even lizards are in short supply.

large_4B18F176BCD15A767E46FABA495784FD.jpg

To say the hotel is run down is an understatement. It has certainly seen better days and could do with a spot of refurbishment and lots of TLC, but these days Comoros is such a poverty stricken country with tourism being almost non-existent, so I doubt if they are able to spare money for doing the hotel up.

large_Al_Amal_Hotel_2.jpg

large_Al_Amal_Hotel_-_Our_Room.jpg

large_Al_Amal_Hotel_-_Entrance.jpg
The entrance to the hotel from the car park

large_Al_Amal_Ho..tion_Area_1.jpg
The reception area to the left and the restaurant straight on.

large_Al_Amal_Ho..estaurant_2.jpg
The restaurant

large_Al_Amal_Ho.._Restaurant.jpg
The outside dining area

large_Al_Amal_Ho..to_the_room.jpg
The corridor leading to the rooms

large_Al_Amal_Ho.._the_Landin.jpg
The fusebox on the landing

Swimming Pool

There is a fairly large swimming pool, and a small paddling pool, but no water. I am guessing it is not financially feasible to maintain a full pool with just a handful of tourists (just four at the moment).

large_Al_Amal_Hotel_3.jpg

large_Al_Amal_Ho..ing_Pools_1.jpg

large_Al_Amal_Ho..ming_Pool_5.jpg

David decides to do a dry run anyway.

large_Al_Amal_Ho..ming_Pool_6.jpg

Beach

With no water in the pool, maybe we should try the beach. There is a gate in one corner of the grounds, but it is locked. Which means going up the steep hill to the main road, through the sports stadium and down a series of steep steps to get to the beach. In your swimwear. No thank you.

large_Al_Amal_Ho..The_Beach_1.jpg

Fishing

We watch the fishermen for a while, working in teams of four, with one man in the boat, throwing out the nets, with the other three in the water, splashing around to frighten the fish into the net.

large_Fishing_Boat_1.jpg

large_Fishing_Boat_2.jpg

large_Fishing_Boat_3.jpg

Chilling on the balcony

Having exhausted the ‘leisure facilities’ in the hotel, we go to chill in the room. The bedroom is the only place with A/C (or at least some of them have), but there is no wifi, or chairs; the restaurant has wifi, but no A/C or comfortable chairs; the reception has comfy seating but no wifi or A/C. We grab a couple of chairs from the restaurant and sit on the balcony for a while in the shade.

large_Al_Amal_Hotel_-_Balcony_1.jpg

We brought some bubbles with us to play with the local kids, but haven’t seen any children around, so David has to play with himself.

large_Bubble_3.jpg

Sporting my 400mm lens, I do manage to capture a couple of birds from the balcony.

large_Common_Myna_Birds_1.jpg
Common Myna Birds

large_Pied_Crow_4.jpg
Pied Crow

Tripadvisor

You know you are in a fairly obscure place, when even Tripadvisor is confused about where Anjouan is, showing a photo from Ait Benhaddou in Morocco on their site for the island.

large_Trip_Advisor_1.jpg

This hotel, despite being the 'best on the island', is not even listen on Trip Advisor. Yet. I have tried to add it and written a review so hopefully it should show soon. .

Even David’s mobile phone seems to have doubts about this place.

large_Al_Amal_is_Dangerous.jpg

Lunch

The restaurant is calling, as much for the wifi as for the food: with little to choose from, we have another chicken sandwich. Considering there is only the two of us in the restaurant, I am somewhat surprised that the sandwiches take 45 minutes to arrive. Not that we are in a hurry, quite the opposite.

large_Lunch_-_Chicken_sandwich.jpg

Patrice arrives with our passports and tickets for the ferry tomorrow. This looks promising. He tells us the others are still waiting at the airport, with a glimmer of hope for a seat on the plane this afternoon.

large_Ferry_Ticket_11.jpg

The rest of afternoon is spent just chilling, a little siesta, a short walk, some internet time, a drink (non-alcoholic) in the bar… The usual stuff.

Dinner

This evening they have vanilla, but no lobster, so I have to make do with chicken in vanilla sauce. It is absolutely delicious. David has another pizza.

large_Chicken_in_Vanilla_Sauce.jpg

Later Patrice joins us for a drink and confirms that the one British guy who has an international flight tomorrow morning did get away today, but not until 18:00 this evening. Once the pilot had finished his scheduled flights for the day, he took some of those passengers who were most desperate to go to Moroni in his nine-seater plane, charging them €160 per person. That still has to be worth it to save all the hassle associated with missing your international flight.

As it is still too early to go to bed, I attempt some astrophotography in the grounds of the hotel. There is too much light pollution to be successful, but I have a go anyway. At least we can see the Milky Way quite clearly.

large_Stars_over_Anjouan_1.jpg

As soon as we get back to the room, we both complain of feeling nauseous. Some ten minutes later, David starts vomiting violently, followed almost immediately by me. Oh dear.

I go to bed, hoping that having got rid of the content that was bothering my stomach, it will settle it down now. No such luck. I still feel terribly nauseous. Half an hour later I also have diarrhoea. Followed almost immediately by David. It is one of those cases where you don’t know whether to sit on the toilet or kneel in front of it. Thankfully, our urgent bathroom visits do not clash at any time, but they do go on throughout the night. 27 times to be exact, and yes, I am counting.

By around 2 am there is no more water in the tank to flush the toilet, so we start using the reserve from the buckets. By 4am this has run out too. So has our drinking water. If we weren’t already feeling nauseous, we certainly want to be sick as soon as we enter the pungent bathroom. We both feel like wet rags that have been wrung out and turned inside out. We try to get some sleep, but really only doze. Vomiting doesn’t bring any respite or relief from the dreadful nausea, it is constant and overwhelming.

large_AC67189AA268ED21F3A99370A46043B9.jpg
The buckets in the bathroom. You will be grateful to know that there is no photographic evidence of tonight's experiences.

Food poisoning is all we need for tomorrow’s ferry crossing back to Moroni. Right now I just want to be able to say “Beam us up Scotty” and be transported to home. I eventually drift off into a restless slumber.

This adventure was arranged by Undiscovered Destinations, specialists in trips to unusual places.

large_9563CD32B998F14C9D6ACCE163E2164C.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 03:17 Archived in Comoros Tagged water fishing beach hotel flight cat crow ta lizard chilling swimming_pool run_down frangipani decay passports runs bubbles astro sickness stomach tummy trip_advisor comoros nausea milky_way food_poisoning moroni anjouan al_amal_hotel mutsamudu chicken_sandwich hibiscus vanilla_sauce astrophotography diarrhoea Comments (2)

(Entries 1 - 2 of 2) Page [1]