A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about cracked

Lobo - Ndutu Part 3 - elephants, warthogs, giraffes

...and a couple of 'almost' leopard sightings.


View Tanzania for Lyn and Chris' 40th Anniversary 2018 on Grete Howard's travel map.

More Elephants

This time under the shade of a tree

large_1b226060-33ac-11e9-9ad8-5bba836903c6.jpg

Black Faced Vervet Monkey

This young lady is carrying the tiniest of babies, but she doesn't seem to want to show him off to us.

large_9671c8c0-33b4-11e9-8d59-f5b63f3167fb.jpg

For a moment it looks like the baby is losing his grip on mum's belly.

large_ba621230-33b4-11e9-8d59-f5b63f3167fb.jpg

Whirlwind

We've seen a lot of these mini-tornadoes on this trip, with more windy weather than we've ever experienced in the past.

large_d2595dc0-33b5-11e9-bb70-a9e3923b2eeb.jpg

Another Leopard Tree

Just like before, the leopard has jumped down from the tree before we arrive, and could be absolutely anywhere by now.

large_d9536850-33b5-11e9-bb70-a9e3923b2eeb.jpg

Kill in Tree

This is beginning to be the 'Story of Our Day' as we see the carcass of a reedbuck in a tree. The predator has deserted her kill to go off hunting again. Knowing that she is likely to return to move the kill to protect it from lions, we wait. And wait. And wait. “Just ten minutes more”. Eventually, after what seems to me like an eternity, we take a vote and decide to move on to “see what else nature has to offer us”.

large_44ac0760-33b6-11e9-bb70-a9e3923b2eeb.jpg

large_6b4030e0-437e-11e9-b18c-9921e859dab3.jpg

Helmeted Guineafowl

I know they are birds, but it is still unusual to see the guineafowl in a tree.

large_196b3980-33b7-11e9-92c0-ff70d722893b.jpg

large_25b4abe0-33b7-11e9-92c0-ff70d722893b.jpg

Warthogs

Heading for the waterhole

large_090b1b80-33b9-11e9-8d59-f5b63f3167fb.jpg

Rolling around in the pond, the warthogs are essentially 'applying sunscreen' using the thick mud for protection.

large_0421ef20-3433-11e9-97fd-af340f88ddff.jpg

large_189cb390-3433-11e9-97fd-af340f88ddff.jpg

large_2a4ebb10-3433-11e9-97fd-af340f88ddff.jpg

large_413eec50-3433-11e9-97fd-af340f88ddff.jpg

Seeing warthogs walk makes me think that they look like ladies in stilettos.

large_57baff00-3433-11e9-97fd-af340f88ddff.jpg

Thomson's Gazelles

Also at the waterhole are a few Thomson's gazelles.

large_9fe23270-3691-11e9-9d42-7f693cd5d70a.jpg

large_8b115ec0-3691-11e9-9d42-7f693cd5d70a.jpg

large_b69c3880-3691-11e9-9d42-7f693cd5d70a.jpg

large_c399b8a0-3691-11e9-9d42-7f693cd5d70a.jpg

large_d7fa8c70-3691-11e9-9d42-7f693cd5d70a.jpg

Reedbucks

The shy reedbuck stay in the distance, hoping for the gazelles to vacate the waterhole so they can go down to drink in peace.

large_0c2a61a0-3692-11e9-9d42-7f693cd5d70a.jpg

large_17c321a0-3692-11e9-9d42-7f693cd5d70a.jpg

Elephants

large_b311d140-36e9-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

large_cf7211b0-36e9-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

large_38b6ebf0-36ea-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

large_ebc77cb0-36e9-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

This herd includes a couple of really young babies, just two and three months old.

large_16627830-36ea-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

large_16627830-36ea-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

large_79875430-36ea-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

large_9d1f4470-36ea-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

Mum is very protective over her baby.

large_5229f780-36ea-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

large_66436210-36ea-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

Note the dust devil in the background – as I said earlier, we saw more of these on this trip than we have on all the previous safaris put together.

large_b0348570-36ea-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

Lioness

This young lady is having an afternoon siesta under a tree, all by herself.

large_a27d6760-36ec-11e9-bef4-85e924301feb.jpg

Topi

Surveying the landscape from the top of a small mound. As they do.

large_6f73bb50-36ef-11e9-8534-3b6260b29981.jpg

White Bellied Bustard

large_a1ee49f0-36f0-11e9-8f47-53f620f4ef4e.jpg

Steenbok

Not sure what this steenbok has done with his ears – he looks rather odd.

large_bf0317e0-36f1-11e9-9118-95e694b83595.jpg

Short Grass Plains

Looking out over the area that they call Short Grass Plains, I can understand how Serengeti got its name: Endless Plains (the meaning of the name Serengeti in the local Maa language).

large_0b01a200-36f3-11e9-8534-3b6260b29981.jpg

Dust

At this time of year, vehicles travelling on the dirt tracks of the Serengeti throw up huge clouds of dust, especially the large trucks.

large_a5057830-36f4-11e9-8534-3b6260b29981.jpg

large_f3f460f0-36f4-11e9-8534-3b6260b29981.jpg

Common Kestrel

He has a little lizard in his talons, but seems more interested in looking around than eating, but eventually bites its head off and flies off holding the rest of his lunch in his claws.

large_138d52a0-36ff-11e9-a94a-bf7845d6eace.jpg

large_1dcc00e0-36ff-11e9-a94a-bf7845d6eace.jpg

large_26ad6910-36ff-11e9-a94a-bf7845d6eace.jpg

large_3f91f040-36ff-11e9-a94a-bf7845d6eace.jpg

Steppe Eagle

large_1c4d21b0-3702-11e9-a94a-bf7845d6eace.jpg

Chipped Windscreen

The problem with these dry gravel tracks is not just the dust, there are also little stones being thrown up. This started as a small chip less than an inch long a few days ago, but with the vibrations of the uneven surface and the vacuum effect caused by driving at speed, it is now almost a foot long. Every time we pass another vehicle, Malisa holds on to the windscreen with his spare hand to lessen the chance of it shattering. Fortunately there is very little traffic today.

large_e8ddc0e0-3702-11e9-a94a-bf7845d6eace.jpg

Naabi Gate

By the time we reach the gate to exit Serengeti, both David and I have the runs; thankfully the toilets here are clean and modern these days.

Ndutu

After completing the formalities and leaving Serengeti, we enter one of my favourite places in Tanzania: Ndutu. Part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Ndutu encompasses a lake of the same name as well as Lake Masek.

Baby Golden Jackal

There is no sign of the rest of his family, I am guessing (hoping) they are hiding somewhere nearby.

large_cde5db50-3708-11e9-970e-fd62b0a2eb95.jpg

large_e6af6070-3708-11e9-970e-fd62b0a2eb95.jpg

large_f17455b0-3708-11e9-970e-fd62b0a2eb95.jpg

Spotted Hyena

large_137636a0-374b-11e9-bb28-b5127642b0da.jpg

large_1f501e50-374b-11e9-bb28-b5127642b0da.jpg

large_2c72b2a0-374b-11e9-bb28-b5127642b0da.jpg

Fireball Lily

Unlike our last two visits, which have been in May when the plains are turned into enormous, colourful meadows, at this time of year it is unusual to see any flowers, making this fireball lily all the more special.

large_b0415fa0-374b-11e9-bb28-b5127642b0da.jpg

Flamingos on Lake Ndutu

The way they move when they are feeding, tripping up and down, lifting one leg, then the other, always makes me think of little children needing the toilet. They are, of course, doing it to try and disturb algae.

large_7e202ce0-3750-11e9-9480-e7175e015ae0.jpg

large_8d9a45c0-3750-11e9-9480-e7175e015ae0.jpg

Yellow Necked Francolin

large_8c3f5430-3751-11e9-99e6-bb3465cbe2db.jpg

Giraffe

large_8a56d690-377c-11e9-9c40-9bb0cab67d93.jpg

As I said earlier, the dry soil means that the car kicks up a large amount of dust as we are driving along the dirt tracks. While we are moving, it is not so noticeable, as the dust is mostly behind us; but as soon as we stop, the fine powder seems to catch up with us, making photography impossible for a minute or so until it settles.

large_75adaf20-377c-11e9-9c40-9bb0cab67d93.jpg

large_b8ad36f0-377d-11e9-9c40-9bb0cab67d93.jpg

large_cdcacb10-377d-11e9-9c40-9bb0cab67d93.jpg

While I was complaining about the dust a minute ago, I love it when we get back-light from the setting sun and the animals themselves kick up the dust. It adds a magical atmosphere to the photographs.

large_deb515c0-377d-11e9-9c40-9bb0cab67d93.jpg

Elephants

large_4cf50750-3870-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

large_82c87a60-3870-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

Wait for me!

large_f94124a0-383c-11e9-aac6-9300e3336db5.jpg

The elephants are heading to the Big Marsh area to have a drink before bed time.

large_76e1f0b0-383d-11e9-aac6-9300e3336db5.jpg

Fork Tailed Drongo

large_a9bb5570-3870-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

More Elephants

large_b241a550-3870-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

We notice one of them has a broken tusk, probably destroyed it while trying to bring down a tree.

large_c6f13560-3870-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

The light is really failing now as Malisa makes his way to our camp for the night.

Tawny Eagle

large_7b465ea0-3871-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

Black Backed Jackal

large_92a9eb20-3871-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

large_9d2c3210-3871-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

Striped Hyena

I always travel to Tanzania with a wish list of some animals I would really like to see. While I am of course excited by whatever “nature has to offer us”, there are still some animals that we have yet to encounter in the wild. Striped Hyena is one of those. It has been on my wish lists every single one of the six times we have come to Tanzania on safari.

Just before we arrive at our night stop, Malisa abruptly stops the car as an animal crosses the track in front of us at the speed of light. “What was that” I ask as I instinctively grab my camera. Malisa is almost too excited to speak. “Striped Hyena”. Wow. Not only is the light so low by now (ISO 20,000 for my photography friends), the hyena is such a fast mover, that he is way into the bush by the time I press the shutter.

Ladies and gentlemen, I am very excited to announce that this is a STRIPED HYENA. Honestly.

large_bf10cd00-3871-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

Lake Masek Tented Camp

This is the third time we have stayed at this charming camp, and it never fails to delight us.

large_f60eb650-3871-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

After completing the usual formalities, we check out the new deck that has been built since we celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary here in May last year.

large_04ab4070-3872-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

The view from here has always been spectacular, overlooking the lake of the same name.

large_2ea9fbf0-3872-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

This evening a welcoming camp fire is burning in the elevated fire pit, with director's chairs surrounding it, facing the stunning outlook.

large_4bea6330-3872-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

large_5e6734c0-3872-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

large_68b01c30-3872-11e9-a2da-6790ddffcb88.jpg

We also see there is new and a very inviting-looking swimming pool on a lower deck. It is a shame we never have time to enjoy the facilities of these lodges – it's a balance between making the most of the animals on safari or the accommodation and the wildlife wins every time.

large_c437cfd0-3872-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

Spacious tents on wooden platforms come complete with a four poster bed, large bathroom featuring a stand-alone bath, double basins, a separate toilet and an open air shower.

large_87591420-3872-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

large_95a7f370-3872-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

a051bf90-3872-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

large_ae052230-3872-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

The latter is a new experience for Lyn and Chris and causes much amazement and amusement. At dinner Chris regales us with an entertaining account of the conversation that occurred while they were getting ready:

Lyn: “The shower has no roof”
Chris, not taking a great deal of notice: “Oh yeah”
Lyn: “No, really, there is no roof.”
Chris, a little more interested now: “What do you mean 'no roof'?”
Lyn: “I can see the stars”
Chris, a little confused: “Really? Don't be silly”

large_d1b81480-3872-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

Unfortunately it is not raining this evening, as having a warm shower in the cool rain is an unforgettable experience. Mind you, so is star gazing while showering.

It is not until I take my watch off this evening that I realise just how much sun you can catch even though you are inside a vehicle and using a factor 20 sun tan lotion.

large_e89496b0-3872-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

We just about have time to enjoy a pre-dinner drink on the mosquito-screened balcony in front of our tent.

large_fafde040-3872-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

large_08b9f570-3873-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

large_148955d0-3873-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

One of the many things I like about this camp is that Malisa is permitted to eat with us, and we have a terrific evening with lots of raucous laughter, excellent food and free beer and wine. Thankfully the lodge is not full this evening, with only three other tables taken for dinner.

large_1ed4d550-3873-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

All this was, of course, arranged by the ever-helpful Calabash Adventures, our favourite safari partner.

large_b56c02e0-3873-11e9-afba-9d2d75a22390.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 14:31 Archived in Tanzania Tagged animals monkeys sunset elephants africa safari tanzania pond eagle birding lion windy giraffe wind swimming_pool lioness lily flamingos serengeti dust hyena sunburn gazelle topi warthog waterhole cracked jackal drongo bird_watching bustard tented_camp ndutu camp_fire kestrel whirlwind windshield calabash_adventures vervet_monkeys black_faced_vervet_monkeys lake_masek short_grass_plains black_backed_jackal spotted_hyena tawny_eagle lake_masek_tented_camp endless_plains spurfowl guineafowl francolin game_viewing golden_jackal mini_tornado white_bellied_bustard reedbuck dust_devil naabi_gate wildlife_photography leopard_kill thomsons_gazelle common_kestrel steppe_eagle chipped_windscreen windscreen baby_golden_jackal striped_hyena fireball_lily yellow_necked_spurfowl yellow_necked_francolin broken_tusk fork_tailed_drongo pre_dinner_drinks outdoor_shower Comments (6)

(Entries 1 - 1 of 1) Page [1]