A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about dry season

Amazon Day One - chasing swallows and otters mating

Such a privilege


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

The room finally cooled enough for me to put the covers on at 01:00. The alarm is set for 05:00, but I am awake from 03:00 anyway.

Boat Safari
Like Araras, the activities here at Cristalino revolve mostly around trekking, but because of my bad knee, Gui has arranged boat safaris instead.

It is still dark when we go out at 07:00, so not good for photography.

large_af7a4580-15c5-11ed-8231-272219761e25.jpg
Amazon Kingfisher

The sun soon comes up, though, giving me more light to work with.

large_c55499f0-15c5-11ed-8231-272219761e25.jpg
Red Throated Piping Guan

large_c56c40a0-15c5-11ed-9391-837b432495c3.jpg
Green Kingfisher

large_c5d67420-15c5-11ed-8231-272219761e25.jpg
Great Black Hawk

The guests that are staying here at Cristalino Lodge are mostly a combination of families looking for adventure, and avid bird watchers. Not sure where we fit into that.

large_ab6ec5d0-15b9-11ed-a2d4-99e4bab767b3.jpg

Long Nosed Bats
With clever camouflage, these bats attach themselves to the bark of a tree, hiding from the Bat Falcon.

large_c5c02d00-15c5-11ed-9391-837b432495c3.jpg

This caiman is also very well camouflaged amongst the logs and rocks in the river.

large_c58a01d0-15c5-11ed-8231-272219761e25.jpg

large_87ec54c0-163a-11ed-b22b-d19dee7c69c3.jpg
Sunbittern

White Winged Swallow
I spend ages trying to make this little chap fly, but he is not very cooperative, and when he finally does take off, I am not ready with my camera.

large_066cdd00-163c-11ed-ac16-57435785f16c.jpg

I follow him to his next perch.

large_254f8d20-163d-11ed-b1a1-f1a9623197c0.jpg

After hanging around for ages, I yet again miss him taking off. I give up for now.

Until I see a couple of a rock, that is!

large_b124f590-1644-11ed-9f73-d50a220f581c.jpg

large_b1443d60-1644-11ed-b381-d9073b73d170.jpg
Green Ibis

large_cfcb2e60-1644-11ed-b381-d9073b73d170.jpg
White Banded Swallow

large_e18ecfd0-1649-11ed-928d-158408f3e7a6.jpg
Swallow Winged Puffbird

We are now at the beginning of the dry season here in the Southern Amazon, so the level of the river is slowly going down. You can see just how much lower the water is already.

large_e1d108f0-1649-11ed-9bcf-d5c2f576a5ef.jpg

These rocks are completely submerged in the rainy season.

large_e1b28470-1649-11ed-ab8e-3d16751dbe2d.jpg

It certainly makes for challenging navigation and heightens my admiration for our skilled captain.

large_8a9062f0-164b-11ed-ad83-53627b7b338c.jpg
Blue and Yellow Macaws

large_dc4bbcb0-164c-11ed-ab8e-3d16751dbe2d.jpg
Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_23c43790-1650-11ed-8e14-53e4e57c1795.jpg
Spectacled Caiman

large_1f5544b0-1650-11ed-8e14-53e4e57c1795.jpg
Anhinga

large_3e783cb0-1652-11ed-ba8a-abe5030b7080.jpg
Scarlet Macaws

large_efb354b0-1652-11ed-b93c-6f870ce7570c.jpg
Capped Heron

large_ecc3e070-1653-11ed-96fd-35d16a36f881.jpg
Plumbeous Kite

We spend most of our time motoring gently along the shady side of the river. David and I agree how incredibly privileged we are to be here, doing this.

large_a38ed9c0-1656-11ed-a537-3b3db5501f4d.jpg
Amazon Taricaya Turtle

large_7bbd4200-1657-11ed-ab7e-9555550eab3d.jpg
Green Ibis

A dragonfly lands on the boat, and I try – not altogether successfully – to capture it before it flies off.

large_b91c5470-165b-11ed-9096-f3004554992a.jpg

Neotropic River Otters
We see a couple of otters mating.

large_ce793750-1662-11ed-a1b6-c950c17523ab.jpg

It looks like this one is in the throes of passion.

large_cf427ac0-1662-11ed-bdc0-51149494000e.jpg

Rapids
Where the water level has gone down, and rocks have become exposed, a number of rapids have developed.

large_2537f790-166b-11ed-8a9a-550fe66d4540.jpg

large_25216250-166b-11ed-9451-736c356d26c0.jpg

Look at how that water glistens in the sun!

The moving water attracts birds and is fun to navigate – for us. Again I admire the captain and his experience and knowledge as he steers us safely up the river.


large_251e7c20-166b-11ed-b3e1-47f94aa97c6a.jpg
Capped Heron

large_24fc7530-166b-11ed-ad59-d718b864ad67.jpg

large_24f1ede0-166b-11ed-8a9a-550fe66d4540.jpg

large_9f9b8810-166d-11ed-be29-0b58dfca0736.jpg
Southern Rough Winged Swallow

Back to Cristalino Lodge
We return to the lodge mid-morning, where Gui has arranged for me to have a ride back to the room in the electric luggage buggy in order to save my knee. I sit on the flatbed at the back, while David joins the driver in the front.

large_8aba8060-1670-11ed-87d5-cfa7d7b35682.jpg

large_959a50a0-1670-11ed-be75-6d8dc34ff400.jpg

We chill in the room and later on the patio before lunch

large_95bbe260-1670-11ed-bcda-d1a829593241.jpg
An unusual rocking chair


Lunch
This oppressive 38 °C heat is making me feel lethargic, and I struggle to muster up the energy to walk to the restaurant for lunch.

Cristalino Cream of Tartar: with tomatoes, red onions and green herbal oil, plantains, Dijon mustard, capers, and ginger. Served with banana chips.

large_94f02df0-1670-11ed-87d5-cfa7d7b35682.jpg
Very refreshing, quite sweet, tastes predominately of banana

Regional spaghetti dish with cured beef, tomatoes, and orange sauce

large_95ea6c70-1670-11ed-9f40-db057c2a29ee.jpg
Very nice

Banana Crumble
large_953ec320-1670-11ed-87d5-cfa7d7b35682.jpg
Yum! Must try this at home!

We opt out of taking an excursion this afternoon due to the heat, my knee, and David's sore throat; instead, we snooze for the afternoon before I drag myself to dinner. It doesn't feel any cooler after the sun has gone down. This heat is really getting to me.

Dinner
We start with a drink, while we wait for the food to arrive.

large_ebddc330-1674-11ed-9c81-6bcae3dddd34.jpg
Passion Fruit Caipirinha

large_ebcea800-1674-11ed-9b53-ddf032d1ea1c.jpg
David's beer even has its own small ice bucket

large_ebf9d6b0-1674-11ed-a4bd-81fb8b4e062d.jpg
Courgette hash with a poached egg - dry and tasteless

large_ec25a1a0-1674-11ed-9c81-6bcae3dddd34.jpg
Cristalino salad: seasonal leaves, pickled red onion with mustard seeds, cherry tomato confit, cucumbers, pickled palm heart, olives, red cabbage, served with savoury granola. The dish is overly salty (which is saying something as I love a bit of food with my salt), the crunchy topping is nice though

large_ec478180-1674-11ed-a4bd-81fb8b4e062d.jpg
Savoury Granola

large_ec3b2570-1674-11ed-a356-331a035790c6.jpg
Tucupi risotto and smoked catfish: rice, tucupi (cassava broth), jambu (paracress), Grana Padano cheese, and catfish smoked in cashew and blackberry leaves.

large_ebf85010-1674-11ed-a356-331a035790c6.jpg
Brazil nut mousse - I am not at all keen on this dish

And so to bed. Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip for us.

large_b1dc4160-1675-11ed-a4bd-81fb8b4e062d.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 18:39 Archived in Brazil Tagged birds wildlife kite hammock dinner safari hawk brazil lunch birding luxury amazon bats turtle caiman heron anhinga ibis rapids guan kingfisher macaw dragonfly bird_watching otter boat_safari dry_season undiscovered_destinations swallow wildlife_photography river_safari puffbird cristalino sunbittern water_level Comments (5)

(Entries 1 - 1 of 1) Page [1]