Entries about endless plains

More Elephants

This time under the shade of a tree

Black Faced Vervet Monkey

This young lady is carrying the tiniest of babies, but she doesn't seem to want to show him off to us.

For a moment it looks like the baby is losing his grip on mum's belly.

Whirlwind

We've seen a lot of these mini-tornadoes on this trip, with more windy weather than we've ever experienced in the past.

Another Leopard Tree

Just like before, the leopard has jumped down from the tree before we arrive, and could be absolutely anywhere by now.

Kill in Tree

This is beginning to be the 'Story of Our Day' as we see the carcass of a reedbuck in a tree. The predator has deserted her kill to go off hunting again. Knowing that she is likely to return to move the kill to protect it from lions, we wait. And wait. And wait. “Just ten minutes more”. Eventually, after what seems to me like an eternity, we take a vote and decide to move on to “see what else nature has to offer us”.

Helmeted Guineafowl

I know they are birds, but it is still unusual to see the guineafowl in a tree.

Warthogs

Heading for the waterhole

Rolling around in the pond, the warthogs are essentially 'applying sunscreen' using the thick mud for protection.

Seeing warthogs walk makes me think that they look like ladies in stilettos.

Thomson's Gazelles

Also at the waterhole are a few Thomson's gazelles.

Reedbucks

The shy reedbuck stay in the distance, hoping for the gazelles to vacate the waterhole so they can go down to drink in peace.

Elephants

This herd includes a couple of really young babies, just two and three months old.

Mum is very protective over her baby.

Note the dust devil in the background – as I said earlier, we saw more of these on this trip than we have on all the previous safaris put together.

Lioness

This young lady is having an afternoon siesta under a tree, all by herself.

Topi

Surveying the landscape from the top of a small mound. As they do.

White Bellied Bustard

Steenbok

Not sure what this steenbok has done with his ears – he looks rather odd.

Short Grass Plains

Looking out over the area that they call Short Grass Plains, I can understand how Serengeti got its name: Endless Plains (the meaning of the name Serengeti in the local Maa language).

Dust

At this time of year, vehicles travelling on the dirt tracks of the Serengeti throw up huge clouds of dust, especially the large trucks.

Common Kestrel

He has a little lizard in his talons, but seems more interested in looking around than eating, but eventually bites its head off and flies off holding the rest of his lunch in his claws.

Steppe Eagle

Chipped Windscreen

The problem with these dry gravel tracks is not just the dust, there are also little stones being thrown up. This started as a small chip less than an inch long a few days ago, but with the vibrations of the uneven surface and the vacuum effect caused by driving at speed, it is now almost a foot long. Every time we pass another vehicle, Malisa holds on to the windscreen with his spare hand to lessen the chance of it shattering. Fortunately there is very little traffic today.

Naabi Gate

By the time we reach the gate to exit Serengeti, both David and I have the runs; thankfully the toilets here are clean and modern these days.

Ndutu

After completing the formalities and leaving Serengeti, we enter one of my favourite places in Tanzania: Ndutu. Part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Ndutu encompasses a lake of the same name as well as Lake Masek.

Baby Golden Jackal

There is no sign of the rest of his family, I am guessing (hoping) they are hiding somewhere nearby.

Spotted Hyena

Fireball Lily

Unlike our last two visits, which have been in May when the plains are turned into enormous, colourful meadows, at this time of year it is unusual to see any flowers, making this fireball lily all the more special.

Flamingos on Lake Ndutu

The way they move when they are feeding, tripping up and down, lifting one leg, then the other, always makes me think of little children needing the toilet. They are, of course, doing it to try and disturb algae.

Yellow Necked Francolin

Giraffe

As I said earlier, the dry soil means that the car kicks up a large amount of dust as we are driving along the dirt tracks. While we are moving, it is not so noticeable, as the dust is mostly behind us; but as soon as we stop, the fine powder seems to catch up with us, making photography impossible for a minute or so until it settles.

While I was complaining about the dust a minute ago, I love it when we get back-light from the setting sun and the animals themselves kick up the dust. It adds a magical atmosphere to the photographs.

Elephants

Wait for me!

The elephants are heading to the Big Marsh area to have a drink before bed time.

Fork Tailed Drongo

More Elephants

We notice one of them has a broken tusk, probably destroyed it while trying to bring down a tree.

The light is really failing now as Malisa makes his way to our camp for the night.

Tawny Eagle

Black Backed Jackal

Striped Hyena

I always travel to Tanzania with a wish list of some animals I would really like to see. While I am of course excited by whatever “nature has to offer us”, there are still some animals that we have yet to encounter in the wild. Striped Hyena is one of those. It has been on my wish lists every single one of the six times we have come to Tanzania on safari.

Just before we arrive at our night stop, Malisa abruptly stops the car as an animal crosses the track in front of us at the speed of light. “What was that” I ask as I instinctively grab my camera. Malisa is almost too excited to speak. “Striped Hyena”. Wow. Not only is the light so low by now (ISO 20,000 for my photography friends), the hyena is such a fast mover, that he is way into the bush by the time I press the shutter.

Ladies and gentlemen, I am very excited to announce that this is a STRIPED HYENA. Honestly.

Lake Masek Tented Camp

This is the third time we have stayed at this charming camp, and it never fails to delight us.

After completing the usual formalities, we check out the new deck that has been built since we celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary here in May last year.

The view from here has always been spectacular, overlooking the lake of the same name.

This evening a welcoming camp fire is burning in the elevated fire pit, with director's chairs surrounding it, facing the stunning outlook.

We also see there is new and a very inviting-looking swimming pool on a lower deck. It is a shame we never have time to enjoy the facilities of these lodges – it's a balance between making the most of the animals on safari or the accommodation and the wildlife wins every time.

Spacious tents on wooden platforms come complete with a four poster bed, large bathroom featuring a stand-alone bath, double basins, a separate toilet and an open air shower.

The latter is a new experience for Lyn and Chris and causes much amazement and amusement. At dinner Chris regales us with an entertaining account of the conversation that occurred while they were getting ready:

Lyn: “The shower has no roof”
Chris, not taking a great deal of notice: “Oh yeah”
Lyn: “No, really, there is no roof.”
Chris, a little more interested now: “What do you mean 'no roof'?”
Lyn: “I can see the stars”
Chris, a little confused: “Really? Don't be silly”

Unfortunately it is not raining this evening, as having a warm shower in the cool rain is an unforgettable experience. Mind you, so is star gazing while showering.

It is not until I take my watch off this evening that I realise just how much sun you can catch even though you are inside a vehicle and using a factor 20 sun tan lotion.

We just about have time to enjoy a pre-dinner drink on the mosquito-screened balcony in front of our tent.

One of the many things I like about this camp is that Malisa is permitted to eat with us, and we have a terrific evening with lots of raucous laughter, excellent food and free beer and wine. Thankfully the lodge is not full this evening, with only three other tables taken for dinner.

All this was, of course, arranged by the ever-helpful Calabash Adventures, our favourite safari partner.

Making our way across the savannah, I am surprised to see how dry the grass is already considering we are still in the wet season, albeit towards the end.

Parched from the hot sun, the surface of the earth has cracked, forming a thin crust easily disturbed by passing animals.

With the gentle movement of the car, the warm sun and the number of tablets I am taking for my chest infection; I go into a deep sleep. Only when the car slows to a standstill nearly an hour later, do I wake up.

Our reason for stopping soon becomes obvious.

On a nearby rock, another lioness is sunning herself.

While we are busy photographing the cats, my Facebook friend Jim and his family / friends turn up. Serengeti is a large place, so the chances of seeing him here today is very small. We have already seen them once in Ndutu. It really is a small world.

Bored with sunbathing, the lioness jumps down and takes a stroll in morning heat.

The Red Headed Rock Agama doesn't seem the least bit bothered about a lioness walking past his rock.

Nor does the Black Backed Jackal.

Resting peacefully in the shade of a tree, two 'Rasta Lions' momentarily sit up, barely opening their eyes to check us out, then lie down to sleep again. Oh, it is such a hard life to be a lion here.

This picture shows the difference between the Superb and the Hildebrand Starlings.

The Superb in the foreground has a white band on his chest and a white eye; whereas the Hildebrand (singing his little heart out) has no marking between the orange and blue, and the eye is black.

This guy has obviously lost a horn while fighting for a female. I hope she was worth it!

A very similar antelope to the topi, but as you can see, the colouring is not the same (the topi has very dark markings on the head and legs), and the horns are different shapes.

The name 'Serengeti' comes from a local Maa word 'sirenget' (the language spoken by the Maasai tribe) meaning 'endless plains'. Driving for what seems like an eternity (in reality probably no more than around half an hour) across the flat, parched landscape, seemingly devoid of all life, I can certainly see that the name is very fitting.

Arriving at a series of waterholes known as Research Ponds, we stay for a while to watch the goings on at the water's edge. Although initially appearing somewhat uninspiring, with just a couple of buffalo and some Grant's gazelle grazing in the background, this place proves to be rather fruitful in terms of animal sightings and interactions.

A dazzle of zebra (other collective nouns for zebra include zeal and cohort) make their way to the ponds.

More and more animals arrive as we sit by the ponds in the oppressive midday heat.

It's like Happy Hour at our local bar!

Additional animals are constantly appearing, their hooves throwing up clouds of dust that hang heavily in the hot air.

The zebra, like the buffalo before them, immerse themselves in the still water, drinking, bathing and cooling down.

On the horizon a herd of eland nervously make their way towards the waterhole. Normally extremely shy (as a result of being endlessly hunted for their delicious meat), we wonder if – or more likely when – they will start running in the opposite direction.

So far so good as they cautiously move nearer and nearer the water.

I am so excited to see them drinking – this is definitely a first for us!

The other elands are looking at us apprehensively, as they consider whether it is safe enough to quench that thirst.

The zebra, on the other hand, do not seem to have a worry in the world.

Another eland has braved it to the water's edge.

But will he drink?

Yes, he will. They are getting very brave now.

The zebra look on with amazement (or is that my overactive imagination again?) as a band on mongooses make their way down to the water for a drink.

They are loving the water, rolling around in the mud at the shoreline.

From a quiet waterhole with just a couple of sleepy buffalo, the place has now come alive with activity and several different animal species. This is awesome!

There is even a couple of amorous Egyptian Geese on the water.

Having all these newcomers disturbing his hitherto peaceful morning siesta, Mr Buffalo gets up and moves on to pastures new.

He looks thoroughly pissed off.

The mongoose have had enough too.

Even the zebra are on the move.

I have never noticed before that zebras vary so much in colouration. Look at how dark the one on the left is compared to the zebra behind him.

Just as we decide to leave, a European White Stork arrives. They are not native to the African continent (the clue is in the name), rather a migrant. A bit like us then.

Another stork arrives, much to the bemusement of the eland.

And another.

The moment Malisa starts the car engine, the shy elands scatter. As expected. I am surprised they stayed this long.

As we travel towards Ogol Kopjes, we see a few animals on our way.

A spotted hyena who barely raises his head from the puddle he was sleeping in when we pass.

Common Praticole - a nice little lifer (a new bird species for us)!

Another lifer, the European Roller. This one has been on my wish list for a while now, so I am particularly excited to see him. Or her. I really can't ell from this distance.

A couple of topi on a mound looking out for predators.

A cute little zebra foal, grazing with his mummy.

And some eland - running away from us of course.

Eland are pretty huge animals (around the size of an average horse), and create quite a considerable amount of dust as they gallop across the dry savannah.

We leave Ogol Kopjes behind and search for some shade for our lunch picnic.

Be sure to check out my next blog entry for the rest of this afternoon's safari experiences with Calabash Adventures, the best safari operator by far.