Not just one serval, but two! And a surprise camp.
Ngorongoro Crater Viewpoint
This is one of my most favourite places on this earth. I will never tire of seeing this view of the Ngorongoro Crater from above.
When we came to Tanzania with our friends Lyn and Chris in 2016 for their very first safari, Chris was totally overwhelmed when we arrived at this point, and for the first time on the trip exclaimed: “WOW”. He is not normally a 'wow-man', so that was saying something.
Lyn and Chris we unable to accompany us on this trip, but we did manage to sort out a second best – having brought large photographs of them with us to recreate this 'wow-moment' in this place.
Nyati Picnic Site
We stop for lunch at a designated site overlooking the crater. Hoping guests will leave a few crumbs behind, there are always a lot of birds to be found here.
Black Kite
Red Collared Widowbird - an exciting lifer!
Baglafecht Weaver
Common Bulbul and Baglafecht Weaver
White Necked Raven - another lifer
Black Kite circling above
As we are eating, the temperatures suddenly falls considerably, and soon we feel the arrival of large, heavy rain drops. Getting a little wet along the way, we hurriedly return to the car to continue on our journey. We still have a couple of hours' drive before we even reach Serengeti National Park at Naabi Hill Gate, and then there is a further half an hour drive to our camp.
When the heavens open and we get a torrential rain shower, Malisa starts to worry about a certain river we have to cross on the way. As we are on the only road to Serengeti in this area, it would be a major problem if we were to be unable to get across.
When the rain stops, the road becomes steamy in the oppressive heat.
Zebra
Here in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, we often see wild animals intermingling with domestic sheep, goats or cattle; or even humans, such as here.
Zebra mum with her three day old baby
We are initially concerned when we see this tiny baby lying motionless next to his mother, but much to our relief, he eventually sits up.
It looks like the ink ran out during the printing process of this one.
This sculpture is new since we were here last, some fifteen months ago – advertising Oldupai Gorge, AKA The Cradle of Mankind, where hominid footprints were found and a new museum has opened up.
The skulls are not life sized
As we make our way across the area known as the Short Grass Plains, we see the tail end of the migration – the horizon is dotted with the black outlines of wildebeest making their way to the Ndutu area for the birth of their babies.
We have now arrived at the river crossing that Malisa was worried about previously. He gingerly makes his way through the flooded river, and thankfully we make it to the other side without incident. Phew!
Vultures on a carcass
A number of various vultures have descended on a predator's leftovers, and have now eaten so much they are unable to fly for the moment.
Look at this guy at the front: he is so full he can't even move, let alone fly!
Ostriches
This family consists of seven babies who are around two-three months old. Unusually, we only see one female adult: male ostriches have been known to take a harem of up to fifteen concubines!
To think how wet and muddy everything was earlier – look at the dust generated here by the other car!
Migratory Abdim's Storks flying in from Europe
Hyenas
We see a couple of hyenas strutting their stuff, before 'getting intimate'.
Jealousy is not a pretty emotion – a third hyena takes great interest in what they are doing, but gets chased off by the initial suitor.
A Golden Jackal comes over to investigate. This confuses me: why would a jackal be interested in a couple of mating hyenas? Malisa explains that the growling sound made by the male seeing off his rival, is like the noise they make when squabbling over food.
The jackal shakes his head and makes a dozen or more tsetse flies homeless.
He realises that food is the last thing on the hyenas mind, and slopes off, disappointedly.
Meanwhile, our hyena ménage à trois are back at it.
And the interloper is still not welcome.
Neither of them are prepared to give in, and they go round in circles for a while.
Quite literally.
Eventually he manages to get rid of his rival for good.
We too move on as we still have quite a long way to go.
Gabar Goshawk
There are several of these on the ground and in the trees.
More Hyenas
A few miles later two males are in a dispute over a female. Again.
Naabi Gate
The entrance gate to Serengeti National Park at Naabi Hill is one giant building site at the moment, and the lovely little pool which always used to attract such a great variety of birds, has all gone; as have the birds. David is also disappointed that the grocery store doesn't stock any of his favourite Savanna Cider; so we both sit and sulk in the car until Malisa comes back from registering us into the park.
Death by Poison
It is hard to see from this photo, but there is a carcass of a wildebeest, with a dead hyena next to it. Malisa believes that the wildebeest died from eating poison grass, which was so toxic that the hyena died almost as soon as he tucked into the meat! Now the two bodies lie there decomposing as a stark warning to other animals not to get anywhere near it for fear of death! Instinct tells animals to leave well alone - isn't nature grand?
Immature Steppe Eagle
Black Backed Jackal
Tawny Eagle
There is so much water about after the rains, with flooding everywhere, and the Short Grass Plains will have to be renamed, as the grass is no longer short.
Serval
Suddenly Malisa spots something altogether more interesting. This timid cat doesn't hang around long enough for us to photograph him properly and with the aforementioned 'short grass' being so long, it makes it all too easy for him to hide.
All we can see is a couple of black stripes in amongst the vegetation.
He turns around briefly, but is still very obscured by the greenery.
Wandamu River
“You cannot be serious Malisa?”
The crossing looks completely and utterly impossible. I cannot believe that Malisa would even think of attempting this! I hold my breath as he gingerly moves the car along the 'road', hidden somewhere under an unknown depth of water cleverly disguised as a river.
We are surely going to get washed away?
This image is not taken from the safety of a bridge, it is looking straight down out of the car window.
Phew! I breathe a huge sigh of relief as we get to the other side without incident. I am not a nervous passenger by any stretch of the imagination, but I have to admit even I had serious concerns about our safety here. Thankfully Malisa really knows what he is doing and I should have realised that he would never attempt it if he's had any doubts. Sorry Malisa.
Geese
Meanwhile, on the dam by the ford, there is a family of Egyptian Geese with several babies. My racing heart has still not settled down from the river crossing as I try to enjoy looking at the chicks.
There are also hippos in the water
Giraffes in the distance
Serval
Would you believe it! Servals are such rare cats to spot, and here we see two different ones within an hour of each other!
This one is also almost completely hidden by the tall grass though.
Helmeted Guineafowl
More babies!
Sunset
It is getting late now and the daylight is fading fast. Here, so near the equator, the twilight is short and darkness descends quickly.
Matawi Serengeti Camp
We knew earlier today that we wouldn't be staying at the 'advertised' accommodation, but Malisa would not tell us where Tillya had (yet again) upgraded us to.
The approach road to the camp is no more than a couple of tyre tracks in the grass, and the reception area is extremely low key. With only six luxury tents, this camp is very exclusive and private, with exceptionally friendly service.
The communal tent where the reception, lounge, bar and restaurant are found
We are asked if we'd prefer a double or a twin room, and on confirming the latter, we are taken to our tent by an askari (Maasai guard).
The tent is large, with one double and one single mosquito-screened bed; two armchairs and a small coffee table, a little fridge (great for keeping the Coke and cider cold), a writing desk and chair, free standing claw-feet bath, and a separate shower and toilet.
What a strange idea to put spiky branches in a vase on the coffee table!
Dinner
As the only guests staying we are greeted warmly when we arrive in the restaurant. I try out my little bit of Swahili, much to the delight of the staff.
“Habari za jioni?” (good evening, how are you)
“Nzuri, asante, ne wewe?” (well, thank you, and you?)
“Nzuri sana, asante” (very well, thank you)
“Samahani, ongeza pilpili tafadhali” (excuse me, I'd like some more hot sauce please)
“Chakula nikitamu, asante” (the food was delicious, thank you)
“Usiku mwema” (goodnight)
“Lala salama” (sleep well)
“Tutaonana kesho” (see you tomorrow)
It may be just a greeting and a few pleasantries, but everyone joins in and one guy whispers to Malisa: “Does she speak Swahili? We have to be careful what we say...”
The food is delicious, with a very peppery butternut squash soup to start, followed by what they describe as “ram meat”, which turns out to be a goat curry.
The chocolate dessert is very creamy with a hint of coffee.
As the askari walks us back to the tent after dinner, we can hear the hyenas very close by. Thank goodness he has a big stick to protect us! We can still hear them from the inside of the tent, and the sound of hyenas mating carries on most of the night. I struggle to sleep, not just because of the hyena porn going on outside; but I have not so much 'restless legs', as 'restless body'. I am twitching and itching and unable to find a comfortable position.
At 23:30 I hear vehicles arrive and people chatting. Malisa was telling us earlier that a group of Korean tourists (three cars) were unable to reach their accommodation further north this evening because of the bad state of the roads and the amount of flooding (large parts of the Serengeti are completely inaccessible at the moment for that reason); and they were heading to our camp. They have obviously arrived.
In addition to the sex-mad hyenas and lost tourists, I am kept awake by the rain; as well as dust on my lungs, resulting in wheezing and squeaking when I breathe. When I finally manage to drop off, I suffer a terrible nightmare in which I fall off a high walkway! Thanks Lariam!
This safari was arranged by Calabash Adventures, the best safari operator by far!
