A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about iguana

Porto Jofre Morning Safari Day Two

Exploring further afield


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

We have a later start this morning: breakfast at 05:30, leave at 06:30. David is still feeling pretty rough, so again decides to stay behind when Roberto and I go off.

Having already seen eight jaguars (including the one at dinner the first night), we head to a different location this morning.

large_396cb350-117e-11ed-b928-17654d84d72d.jpg

The scene may look idyllic, but the water is dirty and certainly not good for swimming as there are a number of dangers lurking under the surface: caiman, piranha, and sweet-water stingray to mention a few.

large_38a82ad0-117e-11ed-b86a-bd631b1dddec.jpg

Capybara
These giant guinea pigs are the world's largest rodents, at twice the size of the beaver.

large_82430920-1184-11ed-830c-c92343ac37e3.jpg

The most interesting thing about capybara is that they are known to eat their poo in the mornings.

large_821c4740-1184-11ed-beef-ed1b4a3ab89f.jpg

I am disappointed that we don't see them do this (I think). We do see one of the youngsters drinking, however.

large_81d52c20-1184-11ed-beef-ed1b4a3ab89f.jpg

large_81be6fd0-1184-11ed-830c-c92343ac37e3.jpg
Pied Lapwing

large_ebe52920-1185-11ed-830c-c92343ac37e3.jpg
Amazon Kingfisher

large_6269a020-1187-11ed-9be2-97cedb4ed962.jpg
Wood Stork

large_3e3441f0-1188-11ed-9ab8-3b9e3c77bee2.jpg
Great Egret

large_57632320-1189-11ed-b6c9-4b1e4823a1b3.jpg
Roseate Spoonbill

large_9fb52000-118a-11ed-92e3-d3827be4404e.jpg
Black Crowned Night Heron

large_0ed33610-118c-11ed-9c24-8757d17f35aa.jpg
Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_972dacc0-118c-11ed-9c24-8757d17f35aa.jpg
Greater Ani trying to hide

Black Howler Monkeys
Today we see the male – which is actually black – as well as the golden-coloured female we saw yesterday.

large_ce037f30-118d-11ed-b1b2-8763511f2620.jpg

large_ce0553f0-118d-11ed-9252-3b49d3280f9c.jpg

large_d3864bb0-1190-11ed-86bf-0d460c6d59f7.jpg

large_a3298210-1191-11ed-85c3-dd1c4fcf93a6.jpg

One of the females has a baby on her back!

large_c9a0cf10-1192-11ed-b4ea-0f81bd942b8f.jpg

large_06099440-118f-11ed-b1b2-8763511f2620.jpg
Golden Tegu Lizard

large_862b76d0-1198-11ed-85b0-d19ea1bae735.jpg
Green Iguana

large_1f8d3610-1199-11ed-8d5d-61d87ee227df.jpg
More Capybara

Caiman
There are caimans everywhere!

large_38670320-117e-11ed-b86a-bd631b1dddec.jpg

large_d37f7aa0-11a0-11ed-bd38-cf6bc692d925.jpg

This guy is a real giant of a grandaddy!

large_db127bc0-119e-11ed-af2a-0110177dc3ae.jpg

I didn't realise until today, that caiman (and crocodiles) have no tongue as such. Well, technically they do, but the tongue is held in place at the roof of the mouth by a membrane. Because caimans spend so much time underwater, the tongue helps keep the throat closed, protecting the animal's airway. Unlike other species, the tongue plays no part in feeding.

large_dae59f60-119e-11ed-acf2-49efe8316a9f.jpg

This poor guy is missing the tip of his tail – he could have had an encounter with a jaguar, or possibly even one of his own. Caimans have been known to turn to cannibalism.

large_8dd27550-11bb-11ed-b5da-7391502e3318.jpg

large_4a47f4f0-11a1-11ed-a3e2-1fa95f27c98d.jpg
More Capybara

large_95261060-11a1-11ed-a3e2-1fa95f27c98d.jpg
Jabiru

Nesting Site
We arrive in an area where almost every tree has a birds' nest. It is a beautiful, peaceful place with lots of tall trees offering shade, and we are the only people here, so I ask if we can just hang around for a while.

large_3d992f10-11b7-11ed-95fd-97ecad776e6a.jpg

large_3d2f97d0-11b7-11ed-95fd-97ecad776e6a.jpg

large_54289e80-11be-11ed-869e-1d33e76275c6.jpg
Jabiru on her nest

I try to photograph some of the numerous birds flying above the canopies, without a great deal of success.

large_75fe4220-11ba-11ed-b5da-7391502e3318.jpg
Large Billed Tern

large_57a657c0-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
Lesser Yellow Hooded Vulture

large_579a70e0-11b7-11ed-b5ec-e52cd38ed7f3.jpg
Southern Caracara

large_56e8d420-11b7-11ed-95fd-97ecad776e6a.jpg
Neotropic Cormorant

I have a bit more luck with the perched birds.

large_90c76f30-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
Anhinga

large_909080b0-11b7-11ed-b9be-cbe526c0908f.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_90a2d030-11b7-11ed-b5ec-e52cd38ed7f3.jpg
Lesser Kiskadee

large_90db6c60-11b7-11ed-b9be-cbe526c0908f.jpg
Southern Caracara

large_c734d850-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
Cormorant and Anhinga

large_c74f3e20-11b7-11ed-b9be-cbe526c0908f.jpg
The Anhinga is not happy

large_c6a2d180-11b7-11ed-b9be-cbe526c0908f.jpg
She has more than her hands full with feeding her young. I am amazed at how far down her throat the youngster sticks his head!

large_c6b3e880-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
His brother tries to muscle in on the action.

large_c6ef91f0-11b7-11ed-9073-3f577462cf23.jpg
Enough is enough!

We move on to see what else nature has to offer us today.

large_2a622350-11b9-11ed-96c7-177d6b7f844a.jpg
More Capybara

large_263d0ab0-11b9-11ed-96c7-177d6b7f844a.jpg
Southern Screamer

large_ddbe9f40-11ba-11ed-b5da-7391502e3318.jpg
Jabiru

large_d551dff0-11bc-11ed-8335-43de3788f1b3.jpg
Black Collared Hawk

large_6578cc60-11bd-11ed-8335-43de3788f1b3.jpg
Bare Faced Ibis

large_3ed14040-11bf-11ed-9808-5b33a233383c.jpg
Black Crowned Night Heron

large_62872de0-11c1-11ed-be7f-f984be4ecc4a.jpg
Green Iguana

large_02e05fa0-11c2-11ed-be7f-f984be4ecc4a.jpg

large_2a987f20-11c5-11ed-8f91-b3720ff0ee62.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_a218b0b0-11c5-11ed-ad40-bff75f45c3a2.jpg
Another Jabiru - this large bird is the symbol of Pantanal

We return to the lodge for another buffet lunch.

large_dfcdd9c0-11c6-11ed-aa0f-5f17cf45d6e5.jpg

Goodbye from Porto Jofre for now. Thank you Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip.

large_f10bb820-11c5-11ed-ad40-bff75f45c3a2.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 13:01 Archived in Brazil Tagged animals boat wildlife safari iguana hawk brazil brasil south_america caiman heron egret stork vulture anhinga ibis spoonbill caracara kingfisher ani cormorant pantanal capybara howler_monkeys bird_watching boat_safari jabiru porto_jofre green_iguana undiscovered_destinations tern lapwing wildlife_photography kiskadee monekeys black_howler_monkeys birds_nests screamer Comments (2)

Porto Jofre Afternoon Safari Day One

More jaguars


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

After a buffet lunch and a quick nap, we leave again at 14:00. David feels well enough to join us now, which is great. I am so sad he missed the excitement this morning, and hope we get to see another jaguar this afternoon.

Before we even reach the dock, we see a couple of large birds.

large_bdd372f0-10c0-11ed-97f8-4f066f40e4d7.jpg
Southern Caracara

large_bd1f8c40-10c0-11ed-ae2d-6514844ebe2f.jpg
Jabiru

We head straight back to where we saw the cats this morning, and thankfully they are still there. This time there are four big cats, however, with both the sub-adult cubs in the tree, along with dad.

large_bd5e1be0-10c0-11ed-ae2d-6514844ebe2f.jpg
The cubs

large_be05f4a0-10c0-11ed-8727-975bc8309eee.jpg
With dad on the left

Meanwhile, mum is on the ground below, calling for her babies.

large_66769260-10c2-11ed-907f-db9731b25452.jpg

They reply, shifting restlessly on the tree, moving around, trying to get past dad.

large_66c6fc50-10c2-11ed-8fdc-478c2ce9b667.jpg

large_6675a800-10c2-11ed-8fdc-478c2ce9b667.jpg

large_3e26f100-10c3-11ed-b44b-b9b983fc2f9a.jpg

large_3e0bc7e0-10c3-11ed-a359-f3b82d0f67c7.jpg

large_3e5aab30-10c3-11ed-a359-f3b82d0f67c7.jpg

Dad is having none of it! He thinks the cubs are old enough to become independent now and is trying to separate them from their mother as he will not be able to mate with her again until they do. Typical male, putting sex before the family!

large_66e29aa0-10c2-11ed-b44b-b9b983fc2f9a.jpg

Prompted by seeing mum swim across the river, and realising that they are fighting a losing battle as far as dad moving to let them pass, the cubs make their way in the opposite direction, to the edge of the tree.

large_af5c3500-10c9-11ed-b7e3-bd237ef90e4d.jpg
Mum on the opposite bank

large_3e8f76d0-10c3-11ed-b44b-b9b983fc2f9a.jpg

large_3ea6f670-10c3-11ed-a359-f3b82d0f67c7.jpg

With one last look at us, as if to say “wish me luck”, the cubs jump off the tree and into the water, one after the other, landing with a huge splash!

large_3eb3a0a0-10c3-11ed-8fdc-478c2ce9b667.jpg

Geronimo!

large_3fc90840-10c3-11ed-a359-f3b82d0f67c7.jpg

large_d860b960-10c6-11ed-a6d1-b7b10e47d1a1.jpg

large_d81cab80-10c6-11ed-aace-4d16394e102e.jpg

large_d81b4bf0-10c6-11ed-a6d1-b7b10e47d1a1.jpg

The fist cub starts to swim immediately, occasionally checking that his brother is following behind, before making his way to the opposite bank of the river.

large_ecadf8a0-10db-11ed-8fdd-7fdc550cefbe.jpg

large_ec2f04a0-10db-11ed-8fdd-7fdc550cefbe.jpg

large_ec37de40-10db-11ed-94a7-877ed5d38ead.jpg

large_ece36080-10db-11ed-bb1f-6bed9310550a.jpg

The other one follows.

large_ec84ecd0-10db-11ed-94a7-877ed5d38ead.jpg

A hungry caiman looks on with interest.

large_290534d0-10dc-11ed-bb1f-6bed9310550a.jpg

While the cubs go off together looking for mum, we return to see what dad is up to.

large_296ef320-10dc-11ed-bb1f-6bed9310550a.jpg
Mum

large_2981dee0-10dc-11ed-8fdd-7fdc550cefbe.jpg
The cubs

He continues to look grumpy.

large_59b86660-10dc-11ed-8fdd-7fdc550cefbe.jpg

Still in his favourite tree (we are looking at him from the other side now), the jaguar fidgets a bit, moving up and down the branch.

large_59db57b0-10dc-11ed-94a7-877ed5d38ead.jpg

He is obviously still feeling frustrated!

large_59d76010-10dc-11ed-bb1f-6bed9310550a.jpg

large_595f9800-10dc-11ed-8fdd-7fdc550cefbe.jpg

We leave him be and go off to see what else nature has to offer us today.

large_d1d73e20-117a-11ed-8c83-e753e5c26326.jpg
Roseate Spoonbill

large_d1f2b560-117a-11ed-b265-31d1e89abcfa.jpg
Caiman

large_d29fe550-117a-11ed-af3b-799bce577528.jpg
Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_d2c9db80-117a-11ed-b265-31d1e89abcfa.jpg
Green Iguana

large_25391160-117b-11ed-8c83-e753e5c26326.jpg
Female howler monkey – the males are black while the females are brown.

Black Shouldered Hawk
I am not sure quite what this hawk is doing, it looks like she is fighting with a stick! She puts on quite a display, jumping up and down, spreading her wings, jumping on the stick, and eventually picking it up.

large_24a0c900-117b-11ed-af3b-799bce577528.jpg

large_2577a100-117b-11ed-a47b-03d6adf262be.jpg

large_24861510-117b-11ed-b265-31d1e89abcfa.jpg
I do wonder if she thinks it is a snake? Perhaps she is short-sighted?

Yellow Billed Cardinals
As we make our way back to the lodge, we see a small flock of cardinals frolicking on the beach.

large_24a2c4d0-117b-11ed-8c83-e753e5c26326.jpg

large_25677460-117b-11ed-b86a-bd631b1dddec.jpg

We return to the hotel for a shower, buffet dinner, and then bed.

Goodnight from Porto Jofre. Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip.

large_bc8c8a10-117b-11ed-a47b-03d6adf262be.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 23:12 Archived in Brazil Tagged wildlife monkey iguana hawk brazil brasil heron cardinal spoonbill caracara jaguar birdwatching pantanal wild_animals jabiru porto_jofre green_iguana undiscovered_destinations wildlife_photography wild_birds black_howler_monkey howler_monkey Comments (2)

Porto Jofre Morning Safari Day One

A good start!


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

I had a dreadful night: my shoulder, back, wrist, knee, pelvis, and ankle were all hurting at some stage, and my stomach felt very unsettled (I still have the runs); while David spent the night coughing and blowing his nose. I finally give in and get up just after 04:00.

David decides to stay in bed for the morning, so I go out with Roberto in a boat to see if we can find any jaguars. The Pantanal is said to have the world's highest density of these beautiful cats, and Porto Jofre is known as Jaguar Central, so I am hoping we'll get lucky.

large_601a1d30-0e9a-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg

We agreed quite early on at the planning stage that we didn't want to be in a group (too many bad experiences as a photographer on group tours), so we paid extra and upgraded to a private tour. Seeing some of the bigger boats with up to 12 people in them, I am grateful for the small four-seater boat with me, Roberto and Captain Dinio.

large_5f1b98f0-0e9a-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg

We leave the hotel before dawn, and the sunrise is beautiful with the early morning mist hanging over the water! It is surprisingly cold this morning with the wind from the moving boat. I am glad I listened to Roberto and put a wind-proof jacket on!

large_144ace80-0e9b-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg

large_140d7760-0e9b-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg

large_141a48a0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg

large_14688fb0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg

We are heading in a leisurely fashion towards an area where jaguars were spotted yesterday, stopping to photograph the birds and animals we see along the way.

large_ab86eea0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Bat Falcon

large_abb5ede0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Pied Lapwings making baby lapwings

large_aba747e0-0e9b-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Black Skimmer

large_d6bc7c70-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Large Billed Tern

large_efd24cd0-0e9b-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Green Iguana

All the boat captains are in touch via radio, and we get word that some guests from the hotel have seen a family of five otters, so we decide to go there to check it out.

It seems to take forever to get there, as the captain is very courteous and slows right down every time we pass fishermen in their boats. I worry that the otters will be gone by the time we get there.

Giant River Otters
The otters are still around, eating fish. They are quite large (I guess there's a hint in the name), and they have viciously sharp teeth. You can easily hear the crunching of the fish bones as they eat.

large_c4accf20-0e9c-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg

large_c3f58d10-0e9c-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg

large_c3f45490-0e9c-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg

Other Wildlife

large_faddf290-0e9c-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_faaa3860-0e9c-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
White Winged Swallow

large_faac0d20-0e9c-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Wood Stork

large_fb3190d0-0e9c-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Great Egret

large_fb506370-0e9c-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Neotropic Cormorants

large_49728650-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Amazon Kingfisher

large_49fbb380-0e9d-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Black Crowned Night Heron

large_49c53a30-0e9d-11ed-a665-e5bbb3304002.jpg
Wattled Jacana

large_49d73b90-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Anhinga drying its wings

large_997cf130-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Caiman

large_991fdd10-0e9d-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Southern Screamer

large_99fca880-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Brown Capuchin

large_996634e0-0e9d-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Crane Hawk

large_c4aba130-0e9d-11ed-8f7f-8d6597dbd7bc.jpg
Lesser Yellow Hooded Vulture

large_c4a0a4b0-0e9d-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg
Toco Toucan

A passing boat indicates to us that they have heard of a sighting, so "hold on to your hats, it is full speed ahead!" Sod the fishermen, this is business!

large_5f264a80-0e9e-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg

Jaguar
The first hint that there is something of interest, is a boat jam!

large_a37fb270-0e9e-11ed-a3d0-b321a52e1b3d.jpg

At first, I can't spot the cat, as she is doing her best to be camouflaged (very successfully) while she stalks an unsuspecting caiman through the long grass at the riverbank.

large_8d3c9b00-0ea7-11ed-9664-570d6e7b7b2a.jpg

large_8df2cba0-0ea7-11ed-b5f1-8164d4492a9a.jpg

large_8e04a5f0-0ea7-11ed-8e31-d1e7fa43cf21.jpg

Her camouflage skills are better than her hunting skills this morning, however, as she pounces with a menacing growl, the caiman gets away with a large splash at the last minute!

large_8eb38390-0ea7-11ed-adad-49086ffb7efd.jpg

large_d3f21b60-0ea7-11ed-8e31-d1e7fa43cf21.jpg
The look of dejection on her face as the caiman gets away!

The jaguar walks along the bank. We follow.

large_e0fbdb10-0ea8-11ed-9664-570d6e7b7b2a.jpg

She stops. We stop.

large_e0e60920-0ea8-11ed-b5f1-8164d4492a9a.jpg

She turns around. We turn around. We lose sight of her for a while and thinking she might have wandered over to the other side of the peninsula, we check it out. Nope. We return to the original side just as she appears out of the undergrowth.

large_c5b307a0-0eb4-11ed-bfd4-5b7bf471217b.jpg

large_c6745bd0-0eb4-11ed-b2be-014d876dc086.jpg

large_c5a747d0-0eb4-11ed-9ab6-9f69e8df3aab.jpg

large_de3c7680-0eb4-11ed-b2be-014d876dc086.jpg

Soon she gets fed up with sitting on a log and disappears into the undergrowth again.

large_88bba8f0-0eb6-11ed-bfd4-5b7bf471217b.jpg

Our next spotting is one of her two sub-adult cubs in a tree further down the bank.

large_533eebf0-0eb7-11ed-9ab6-9f69e8df3aab.jpg

large_1820d940-0ffa-11ed-89ac-e368c2c2fcc0.jpg

large_1824f7f0-0ffa-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

The other one is hidden in the thicket behind the tree.

large_181a70a0-0ffa-11ed-a853-5b9e23fd9354.jpg

Meanwhile, mum is keeping an eye on them from the riverbank.

large_9ba18d50-0ffa-11ed-89ac-e368c2c2fcc0.jpg

We're all getting roasted by the fierce sun while waiting for further action.

large_9bc82820-0ffa-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

Mum is fidgety and heads along the edge of the river towards where her babies are.

large_deab91e0-0ffa-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

large_ded58810-0ffa-11ed-89ac-e368c2c2fcc0.jpg

large_df04ae60-0ffa-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

She looks straight at us and heads for the water.

large_43dda300-0ffb-11ed-89ac-e368c2c2fcc0.jpg

There is a strict code of conduct for boat safaris in the Pantanal, and keeping at least 25 metres away from any big cats is one of them. When it looks like she is going to swim across the river, all the boat captains move to a respectable distance.

large_441777b0-0ffb-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

As it turns out, she swims away from us along the bank and disappears into the jungle further along.

large_43c69890-0ffb-11ed-b6fa-05b9a8f7162a.jpg

It's time to head back for lunch. Last night Roberto suggested we start at 06:00 this morning, and be back at the hotel between 10:00 and 10:30. It is now 12:30, and lunch is served in half an hour. David must be wondering what on earth has happened to us!

When I get back to the hotel, I find David sitting outside the room. While he is up and about, he does not look well, with his right eye swollen and watering. He tells me he is feeling slightly better and we both go off for some lunch.

large_d0e18b40-1000-11ed-9c06-6964d3bbfd2e.jpg

Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip for us.

large_dc07e330-11e9-11ed-a059-914cf7e2c1e5.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 19:19 Archived in Brazil Tagged wildlife monkey iguana hawk brazil birding brasil toucan heron egret stork vulture anhinga jaguar kingfisher falcon capuchin cormorant pantanal bird_watching otter porto_jofre jacana swallow tern lapwing wildlife_photography undiscovered_destination skimmer river_otter giant_river_otter swollen_eye Comments (2)

Cuiabá - Porto Jofre

Entering the Pantanal


View Pantanal and Amazon 2022 on Grete Howard's travel map.

David is really suffering this morning with his sore throat, poor thing. After a decent breakfast and a leisurely start, we meet Roberto, our guide, and Ouzito. the driver, outside the hotel at 10 o'clock. They will be taking us by road to Pantanal today. I am excited. I am very excited. Pantanal has been on my wish list for the longest time, and having had this trip cancelled twice, I can't quite believe that I am here now, so very close.

The first part of the journey is on a sealed road with a relatively smooth surface. Alongside the road, we see fields where they grow soya beans or graze Brahma cows imported from India. The odd gold mine dots the landscape, and we see birds such as vultures and rhea, plus the odd capybara.

By the time we reach Poconé, the only town of any size in this region, I have diarrhea. Thankfully we are stopping here for lunch, in a BBQ restaurant known as a Churruascaria, and they have decent toilets.

After filling our plates with salads from a buffet, a waiter comes around with various BBQ meats that he carves off as much or as little as we want. Every few minutes he brings something different: various cuts of beef, chicken, pork, sausages etc.

large_86ff2040-0d13-11ed-ac69-8fc8a01c9ef0.jpg large_87ca8690-0d13-11ed-ad25-175cb0708885.jpg

Transpantaneira
From Poconé it is a dirt road all the way, known as the Transpantaneira, a 150km journey through a range of landscapes - with drier grasslands in the north, while further south, closer to Porto Jofre, the landscape is wetter with more forest and swamp.

large_904b4640-0d15-11ed-935a-27448d8a1ad3.jpg

The road is unpaved, rough, and pot-holed, connected by 122 bridges in varying states of disrepair. A few have been replaced with newer concrete constructions, while some still remain old, rickety, and nerve-wracking. I am sure glad it is not me who is driving.

large_906c89e0-0d15-11ed-8dcb-e3131ce1de76.jpg

large_908b3570-0d15-11ed-a09b-2b0dab041b92.jpg

We drive slowly as we look out for birds and animals, stopping often when we see something worth photographing - safari Pantanal style.

large_1dfc9ed0-0d16-11ed-8dcb-e3131ce1de76.jpg
Savanna Hawk

large_1de3e6b0-0d16-11ed-a09b-2b0dab041b92.jpg
Ringed Kingfisher

large_1efc3480-0d16-11ed-8dcb-e3131ce1de76.jpg
Candle Tree

large_1e49ad60-0d16-11ed-8dcb-e3131ce1de76.jpg
Red Legged Serima

Termite Mounds
During the dry season, the termites live under ground, but as soon as the rains start, they commence building their nests on top of the existing mound, thus increasing the height year by year. Some of the mounds we see are taller than a human.

large_acbfb580-0d16-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg

large_c438c5d0-0d16-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Red Brocket Deer

large_c3f701e0-0d16-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Yellow Billed Cardinal

large_c42760b0-0d16-11ed-b5c9-893b0a2b412c.jpg
American Wood Stork

large_e99d5fc0-0d16-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Roseate Spoonbill

large_e9d7d0b0-0d16-11ed-bef5-cf247dc22a7c.jpg
Lesser Yellow Hooded Vulture

large_e9cd4960-0d16-11ed-b5c9-893b0a2b412c.jpg
Plumbeous Ibis

large_e9e73a00-0d16-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Cocoi Heron

large_180e4270-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Rufous Hornero

large_182ec2c0-0d17-11ed-b5c9-893b0a2b412c.jpg
White Woodpecker

large_188ebd10-0d17-11ed-b5c9-893b0a2b412c.jpg
Caiman

large_18b2bfd0-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Black Collared Hawk

large_46af0ec0-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Great Kiskadee

large_46fedc70-0d17-11ed-b5c9-893b0a2b412c.jpg
Sunbittern

large_46f84cc0-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Green Iguana

large_4741b1d0-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Yellow Anaconda

large_911ab950-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Marsh Deer

large_915e7910-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Finally half way - Bridge 61!

large_916026c0-0d17-11ed-b5c9-893b0a2b412c.jpg
Juvenile Rufescent Tiger Heron

large_dda80b60-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Jabiru, the symbol of Pantanal

large_ddc30d70-0d17-11ed-b5c9-893b0a2b412c.jpg
Black Crowned Night Heron

large_ddd16550-0d17-11ed-935a-27448d8a1ad3.jpg
Peach Fronted Parakeet

large_dde75e50-0d17-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg
Capped Heron

Roberto said the journey to Porto Jofre would take between three and four hours, depending on how many times we stop. We finally arrive at the end of the road and pull up at our hotel after 7½ hours.

Pousada Porto Jofre
Ouzito drives right up to our room. Roberto has arranged for our room to be in such a position that we have easy access to everything: the restaurant, the pool, the docks, the reception, and the car park with the least amount of walking. Good man. There is no check-in procedure, although our room does have our name on it.

large_db4c8a00-0d29-11ed-8c4c-b96cd9cead5d.jpg

large_db760b00-0d29-11ed-88ff-d53f5f67f947.jpg

large_dbf992e0-0d29-11ed-88ff-d53f5f67f947.jpg

The room is fairly basic, but more than adequate, and the AC is good, which is a definite bonus.

large_39465440-0d18-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg

The hotel started life as a fishing camp on a farm, and when the owner realised that not just fishermen wanted to visit this area, it grew into the mixed-use resort it is today, with the focus split between fishing and jaguar safaris by boat.

large_a4a70470-0d2a-11ed-8cdf-4971e5c84bdd.jpg

large_2919d620-0d2a-11ed-8c4c-b96cd9cead5d.jpg

large_394bf990-0d18-11ed-935a-27448d8a1ad3.jpg
Capybara in the grounds

While exploring the hotel and its grounds, I identify a spot that I would like to use later for astrophotography – an elevated boardwalk with a lily pond that I can hopefully get the Milky Way to reflect in.

large_2816e510-0d2a-11ed-88ff-d53f5f67f947.jpg

Dinner

large_28ed9600-0d2a-11ed-88ff-d53f5f67f947.jpg
The restaurant

At dinner we are one of the few smaller tables: there are several large groups, including an American party at a long table next to us. Suddenly there is quite a commotion, with scraping of chairs, screeching of guests, and everybody abruptly and quickly getting up and running around.

The reason soon becomes clear: a river otter has managed to get inside the restaurant, and now all the staff and guides are trying to catch it (while the guests are trying to get away from it). After finally managing to grab it and throwing it out, Roberto goes outside to make sure the otter isn't able to get back in again.

Waving his arms, Roberto comes running back in to the restaurant, shouting in excitement: “jaguar!” “jaguar”. We think he is winding us up, but apparently not. It appears the otter was chased into the building by the big cat, and when Roberto went out, it was just outside the restaurant.

By the time we get out there, he has moved further down onto the boardwalk, and all we can see in the darkness of night is the outline of the body and the torchlight reflecting in his eyes. What excitement!

large_ef4b4b30-0d2a-11ed-8cdf-4971e5c84bdd.jpg

We reluctantly return to dinner. Tonight is a buffet, and while I am generally not keen on buffets, there is a very nice beef in a tasty sauce, and the strawberry cake is delicious.

Milky Way
Even though the jaguar sauntered off into the jungle earlier, we decide that maybe the boardwalk isn't the best place for astrophotography this evening. Roberto suggests going out onto the Transpantaneira where it will be darker than the hotel grounds, and I reckon I can use the road as a decent foreground. The gates are locked shut, however, so we settle for the lawns.

The problem is the trees have spotlights pointing at them. Roberto tries his best to point them away from my camera, and cover one with his hat, one with my bag, and David stands in front of the third light.

It works (with a little help from Photoshop later).

large_38facc50-0d18-11ed-af35-cb87c474c831.jpg

Goodnight from Porto Jofre. Thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for organising this trip.

large_daac0440-0d29-11ed-88ff-d53f5f67f947.jpg

Posted by Grete Howard 21:34 Archived in Brazil Tagged dinner safari iguana hawk brazil brasil bbq deer buffet caiman heron stork ibis parakeet cardinal jaguar kingfisher pantanal anaconda cuiabá termite_mounds milky_way pocone porto_jofre termites undiscovered_destinations astrophotography kiskadee tranpantaneira churrascaria wooden_bridges serima Comments (4)

(Entries 1 - 4 of 4) Page [1]