Entries about lake ndutu

We set off after lunch to see what nature has to offer us here in Ndutu, and hopefully find a wildebeest herd where we can witness a birth.

African Hoopoe

Juvenile Red Billed Buffalo Weaver

Lion

Under a tree we see a magnificent male lion. Initially just resting, he soon sits up surveying the tourists arriving.

Big yawn. And other funny facial expressions.

He licks his chops and walks straight towards us.

Too close for comfort, or at least for photography!

It's only when we drive away that we realise that Dickson (our driver during our first three safaris in Tanzania) and his clients are right behind us.

Two Banded Courser

Eurasian Avocet

"What are you looking at?"

Blacksmith Plover

Wildebeest Migration

Continuing on our way, we drive alongside thousands of wildebeest, running in an (almost) single file.

The line seems to go on forever, then group into a HUGE herd, surrounding us on every side, and they just keep on coming.

More and more and more arrive, a never ending stream of wildebeest join the mêlée, until there is just a sea of horns.

We see very few babies in amongst this crowd though. A few of the females look like they are ready – they are fat, their nipples have developed and they are struggling to walk – but none are just about to drop. Oh well, we'll keep searching.

Zebra

A few zebras have joined the wildebeest, and we see a few babies too. Our hearts stop as we spot what appears to be a dead baby zebra in the grass.

We hold our breath when the mother appears and starts nudging her little foal. Is he alive?

Yes, he is, and he soon runs off with his mother. Phew.

Dung Beetles

So many wildebeest in one place means two things: 1. we are eaten alive by pesky flies, and 2. it is a dung beetle's paradise.

Within a few minutes, large piles of dung are turned into neat little balls and rolled away.

With my love of dung beetles, I am totally in my element here, and before I know it I have taken over a thousand photos of... basically a pile of shit - plus these fascinating insects, of course.

It is now several hours since we last saw any other cars or human activity. This may be the height of the season in Ndutu, but it is still possible to have large areas all to yourself. Most people go back to the lodge for lunch, preferring to stay out of the sun in the midday heat. I can see why, as we are being cooked to perfection even in the shade of the car. I wouldn't want to miss an animal experience though!

Greater Spotted Thick Knee

Light Tawny Eagle

European White Stork

A number of storks return to roost for the night, gliding effortlessly across the savannah.

Not dozens, not hundreds, but thousands! They just keep on coming.

And I just keep on photographing them.

And the wildebeest just keep on walking.

The storks are followed by a large flock of Cattle Egrets.

Even a small chattering of Wattled Starlings join in. (chattering is the collective noun for starlings)

Cheetah

A mum and her two cubs are very active in the late afternoon sun, running around and playing and for the next 30 minutes or so we delight in their antics. The dozen or so photos you will see here, are whittled down from a massive 1200 images – that amounts to around one picture a second!

I have nothing more to say about this encounter, I think the note I made in my journal at the time sums it up!

Much as we'd love to stay and watch these adorable little animals for longer, we really have to go. We are still quite some distance away from the lodge, and have to be back by 19:00.

Sunset

As we approach Lake Ndutu, I gasp. I don't think I have ever seen such a spectacular sunset here in Tanzania before.

I make poor Malisa stop time after time as a new vista comes into view.

Thankfully sunsets are over rather rapidly this close to the Equator, and we can continue on our way back to the lodge as originally planned.

Until we get to the Marsh.

The light is really poor now, too dark for photography, so I don't feel bad that we don't stop long.

We do, however, stop to help out this vehicle which is well and truly bogged down.

Not sure I'd like to be out of the vehicle this close to two lions.

And they're out!

Having to rush along the basic tracks that make up Ndutu's 'road system', we dislodge an enormous amount of dust. It seems almost incongruous that a few days ago there was heavy rain and every track was a mud bath.

Ndutu Lodge

We finally make it back to the lodge by 19:30, and after a quick shower and change we are the last to dinner. Again.

Apple, feta and walnut stack with home made dressing

Somehow I forget to take a photo of the main course, which was lamb tagine with couscous, green beans and courgettes. I do, however, snap a picture of a large moth enjoying what's left on David's plate.

A very tasty Malva Pudding for dessert

The excellent arrangements for this safari was made by Calabash Adventures, the best safari company by far.

It's late afternoon as we leave Serengeti National park behind and head for pastures new, with five nights in the Ndutu region of Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

There are just as many zebras here as there were the other side of the park border. Of course the animals don't have to check in and out of the parks as we do, and there are no physical borders.

Wattled Starling

A tree by the side of the road is alive with these colourful and impressive-looking birds.

They get their name from the long wattles found on the throat of breeding male birds, who also display unfeathered yellow skin and a black forehead (the rest of the year they are a dull grey)

Female

Jackson's Chameleon

Without warning, Malisa comes to a screeching halt on the apparently empty road. Except it is not so empty. Malisa's eyes never cease to amaze me – he has spotted a chameleon crossing the road!

They are seriously bizarre in the way they walk.

Having safely crossed the road, our little friend disappears up the bank and into the undergrowth. What an exciting sighting!

European White Stork, a seasonal migrant

The dark line you see just before the horizon is thousands upon thousands of zebra and wildebeest making their annual migration through the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem. Some 3-4 million animals in total are part of this spectacle.

Lions

Also watching this amazing phenomenon is a pride of seven lions, but not for the same reasons as us: they see it as a line-up of prospective lunch choices.

Although this one seems to be watching us.

Wildebeest

We soon find ourselves in the midst of the hoofed melee, surrounded by wildebeest on all sides.

There are a few zebra amongst them too, but nowhere near the numbers we saw just a little bit further north in Serengeti.

At this time of the year, the plains of Ndutu are descended on by what is known as the 'Great Migration', and the animals are here to give birth to their babies before continuing on their never-ending quest for greener pastures. It is in the hope of seeing the young animals or even babies being born that we have chosen to come here now; we are therefore a little disappointed to see that there do not appear to be any little ones around, at least not in this herd.

We finally see this one single youngster in amongst all the adults.

He's full of life as he explores his new world.

At just a couple of days old, he doesn't know what to make of this egret.

“I think I'll go back to mum.”

Mum, meanwhile, has a non-fare-paying passenger in the form of a wattled starling.

The fare-dodger is soon evicted, however.

Cheetah

In he distance we see a few cars gathered and go off to investigate.

Initially we can't see what they are all looking at, but then we spot a little head in the long grass.

There is a mum and two young cubs, somewhere in the region of 5-7 months old, and they have a kill that they are feeding on. Their dinner, however, it completely overrun with flies!

Mum tries to move the carcass, but it proves too heavy for her.

Having had enough to eat, they all join together and roll in the grass in an attempt to rid themselves of those pesky flies.

It's getting late and we need to be at the lodge before dark; and as we don't know what we might see on the way to delay us, Malisa wants to get going.

Great White Egrets and Abdim Storks

We are not the only ones heading for home – a great number of egrets and storks fly low on the way to their roosting sites for the night.

Road Block

More and more ungulates are joining the migration this point, with the road being blocked in several places by wildebeest and zebra.

Uh uh. It looks like there may be a road block of a different kind here; I hope we can manage to get through the puddles.

The cars in front of us have made it, so we should be OK. It probably looks worse than it actually is.

We're through!

Great White Egrets
As we cross the narrow strip of land between Lake Masek and Lake Ndutu, we see hundreds and hundreds of egrets fly low over the water as they are coming home to roost. The light is gorgeous with the setting sun giving the whole scene a warm, yellow glow.

It's a spectacular sight, and we stay as long as we can before having to make the journey to the lodge for the night.

Ndutu Lodge

This is the third time we have stayed here at Ndutu Lodge, and as yet we've never arrived early enough to be able to have the time to sit around the camp fire before dinner.

Today is no different. By the time we have a shower and change, we are the last to arrive in the restaurant. The food here has always been excellent, but as they are under new management, we are a little concerned that this may have changed. We needn't have worried, it every bit as good as it always was.

Another good thing about Ndutu Lodge which hasn't changed, is that they serve Savanna Cider.

Mini tomato tart

Chicken curry with coconut and banana, mango chutney, rice and poppadum; with vegetables on the side

Chocolate mousse

Thank you so much to Calabash Adventures for arranging this trip.

Bat Eared Fox

We leave the lodge while it is still dark this morning, and as dawn breaks we spot a couple of Bat Eared Foxes.

Having previously only seen the top of their ears in the distance, I get very excited at this sighting.

They in turn get excited at the sight of a White Bellied Bustard with a couple of chicks.

This is a chase they have little chance of winning, but they have a go at it anyway.

Still hungry and with the bustards half way across the savannah by now, the fox is left sniffing the air.

Lake Ndutu Sunrise

We turn our attention to the lake, where a dazzling sunrise marks the beginning of another day filled with thrilling wilderness experiences.

Verreaux's Eagle Owl

Black Backed Jackal

Having stalked a guinea fowl which then flies up into a tree, the jackal spends ages just staring at it while it makes loud warning calls to its mates.

Eventually the jackal comes to accept that neither tree climbing nor flying are part of his repertoire; and he wanders into the sunrise, posing for some great rim-lit shots.

Broken Down Vehicle

In the distance we see a car with its bonnet open, so Malisa goes over to check if they need any help. Between the three of them they manage to get the Jeep going, albeit coughing and spluttering in a plume of smoke.

This is not really the place to break down – roadside recovery service is somewhat limited and cheetahs are plentiful.

Pale Tawny Eagle

Coqui Francolin

Grey Breasted Francolin

Cheetah

“What’s that?” With his binoculars glued to his eyes, Chris spots something in the long grass and exclaims excitedly: “it’s a cheetah!”

Bringing the car to a halt, Malisa takes a look: “There’s two… no, it’s a female with cubs!” There are four of them, about two months old.

Desperate for some breakfast, mum is constantly on the move, and wherever she goes, the cubs follow.

As is the unwritten rule, once we have had the kitties to ourselves for a while, Malisa radios the other couple of cars in the area to let them know about the sighting.

Painfully thin, mum really needs to eat soon, as her suckling babies have taken all her energy.

We spend the next hour or so following this family as they move across the plains, always on the look-out, always on the prowl.

Not a true cat in that it does not have retractable claws like those in the panthera genus (lions, leopards, jaguars and tigers); the cheetah belongs to the genus acinonyx, as it cannot roar.

Who knew that baby cheetah chirp like a bird?

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As the cheetah make their way towards the woodland, we reluctantly move on to see what else the Ndutu area has to offer today.

Black Shouldered Kite

Lappet Faced Vulture

Yellow Throated Sandgrouse

Bat Eared Fox

After the excitement of seeing a Bat Eared Fox up close early this morning, I am doubly surprised to see another one!

Helmeted Guineafowl

Lions

Down at The Big Marsh, two brothers – around seven years old - are trying to sleep off last night’s big meal.

Two Banded Plover

Coke's Hartebeest

This is what happens when you fight - you lose a horn! Let that be a lesson!

Dark Chanting Goshawk

Fischer's Lovebirds

Grey Headed Kingfisher

Breakfast

We set up a picnic on the plains in the shade of a tree.

Ndutu Lodge has done us proud with their picnic box – there is egg, bacon, pancake, fruit, yogurt, cake, banana and juice.

Caterpillar

A large, hairy caterpillar is attracted to our picnic basket, and David is attracted to its fluffiness.

Only after David lets it crawl all over his hands for quite some time, does Malisa warn: “You’ll get a rash”.

More Lions

While the large male lion in Ngorongoro Crater was a real Rasta Lion, these ‘teenage boys’ (around 1½-2 years old) have more of a punk style.

It’s a hard life being a teenager.

Hooded Vulture

If the vulture is hanging around hoping the lions will provide him with breakfast in the shape of a kill, I think he might have a long wait – these boys do not look like they are going anywhere soon.

He might as well make himself comfortable…

Oh, wait… there might be some action here…?

Or maybe not.

Spotted Hyena

They like lying down in the mud to cool off, which is why you so often see hyenas with dirty bottoms.

Empty Plains

For a while we drive across never ending plains, seemingly devoid of any wildlife.

Malisa spots leopard footprints in the sand and later rescues a dung beetle who has fallen upside down and cannot get back up. Our handsome guide is all heart, for sure – not just a good driver / guide but caring too!

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Hidden valley

A shallow depression in the endless landscape unseen from the distance – hence its name – hides several small waterholes and an overwhelming number of animals.

What can I say? Apart from another “wow”, it is hard to find words to describe the spectacle of 200,000 or so zebra (plus around another 100,000 wildebeest) drinking, cavorting, taking a cooling dip, running, play fighting, and whatever else these ungulates do.

Never before have I seen so many zebra in one place, the area around the waterhole is a veritable sea of stripes.

Lots of very young babies, some just a few days old.

With a thunder of hooves and a cloud of dust, a few more thousand wildebeest arrive.

They just keep on coming...

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Imagine the dust and the noise when a stampede ensues – what an extraordinary location and unforgettable experience this is!

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A small limping wildebeest baby causes us great concern – he is unlikely to last long if f he can’t keep up with the herd and his vulnerability will make him an easy target for predators.

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All around us, in every direction, whichever way you look, as far as the eye can see, there are zebra and wildebeest. No other animals. The spectacle is surreal and immense.

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Time to move on.

With smooth ‘roads’, no animals in sight and a hot day, both David and I find ourselves nodding off.

Lesser Masked Weaver Birds

After a short ‘snoozette’, I wake when we stop for a tree full of weaver bird nests – all created on the western (leeward) side of the tree at the end of the branches to protect the eggs from their main predators: snakes.

And here is the architect herself.

Lilac Breasted Roller

A chirpy little D'Arnaud's Barbet

And his mate

Lions

This is the pride belonging to the two daddies we saw earlier on this morning – three females with six cubs between them.

There is not much activity going on in the midday heat – they occasionally lift their heads, look at us as if you say “why are you sitting there staring at us instead of taking a nap in the shade” and go back to sleep.

Malisa explains that he first saw the growth on the side of this young male back in January, and that it doesn’t seem to bother the animal at all. It still doesn’t make comfortable viewing though.

The daddies are still resting under the trees on the other side of the marsh, their whole bodies swaying when they pant. It makes me think of a salsa dancer.

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One of the females gets up and starts to walk across to where we – and her partner – are. Perhaps she is jealous? She spends a long time just staring at us before giving up and lying down.

And how! A giraffe was the first large animal I saw on my very first African safari back in 1986 and I was mesmerised. I still feel that same way now, 30 years, eleven safaris, twenty-five game parks and countless giraffes later.

With thanks to Ndutu Safari Lodge for hose words.

Giraffe

Did you know that each time a giraffe lifts up its neck, it lifts more than 550 pounds?

Tawny Eagle

We return to the lodge for lunch, a siesta or some bird watching before resuming today’s game drive. For fear of overload, I shall leave you here and create a new blog entry for this afternoon’s excursion.

As always, thanks to Calabash Adventures and their expert guide Malisa.