This morning at breakfast, we pick up an extra cookie, which we break up on our table hoping to attract some of the colourful birds. You could say “that's the way the cookie crumbles”. We don't have to wait long before the first visitor arrives.
Saffron Finch
Plush Crested Jay
We deliberately sit at the table nearest the one that staff use as a bird feeding station, despite the seats being outside the covered roof, thus damp from the spray of the falls overnight.
Melissa comes along, puts some crumbs in her hand, and a jay almost immediately lands and stuffs its face while perched on her fingers. Apparently, only one bird will eat from the hands, and they have affectionately named it Philhelmina.
David tries to do the same, holding his arm out at a right angle for so long it begins to hurt, but he only gets one very quick grab-and-go visit.
While we wait for Carini to pick us up for today's excursion, we do some more bird watching out the front of the hotel.
Black-fronted piping guan, colloquially known as Jungle Turkey. I can see why.
Southern Lapwing
Scaly headed parrot
We make a quick stop at another viewing platform on the Brazilian side of the falls before continuing.
Unlike yesterday, which had a reasonably thick cloud cover all, day, today the sun is shining; creating beautiful rainbows over the falls.
Since the start of the Covid Pandemic, the park is closed for cleaning every Monday, so the only people we see today are those who are staying in the Belmond Hotel.
Argentina
From the viewing platform, we continue out of the park and the short distance to the Argentine border. 80% of the falls are in Argentina, and while Brazil has the best views for that very reason, there are some interesting boardwalks on the Argentine side, including one that goes right up to the edge of the most impressive of all the falls, The Devil's Throat.
But first, we have to get into the country.
Getting out of Brazil is reasonably quick, but the official at the Argentine immigration claims that we should have filled in and printed out an online application before we arrived. Carini is confused about this, as she came through here last week with British tourists and was not asked for this paper then. “They can be so bureaucratic,” she says. We are sent to a 'special immigration office', but to get there we have to make a U-turn and join the original queue again. Carini is having none of that and opens up a new line by moving some bollards.
Carini is gone for ages, and we can see the official typing away on his keyboard, completing the online forms for us, and we are each issued with a number, which we then take back to the original immigration booth for them to access our online form.
The official studies us intently (David and I have been in the car all this time, letting Carini sort out all the paperwork – that is one of the many reasons we like to have a guide!), before declaring that David's date of birth has been typed in wrong. Sigh.
Being sent back to the 'special immigration office', Carini is at her wit's end, and states that she is prepared to use tears to get what she wants. David and I both burst into song: “Don't cry for me Argentina...”
After one hour and lots of frustration, we are finally in!
The last time we came to the Argentine side of the falls, some 32 years ago, we parked up at the then Sheraton Hotel (now the Grand Meliá) and walked down from there. These days it is very commercialised, very modern, very well organised.
The entrance is huge and the distances great, so Carini arranges a buggy to take me to the train station. Despite there being plenty of room in the buggy, Carini, as a local guide, is not allowed to travel with us, but has to walk.
Train tickets are timed, and at the station, there is a large waiting area with a souvenir shop and cafeteria.
The announcer is a perfect character for the job, and obviously very funny, as he creates a lot of laughter. It's a shame I can't understand what he is saying. He comes over to me and explains that despite having tickets for the following train, he will not only get me on the next one, but ushers me onto the platform to ensure I get to board first!
At least Carini is allowed to travel with us on the train!
The train makes one stop at the start of the falls, before continuing to the end station and the trail leading to The Devil's Throat.
On the map below, you can see the route from the car park, through the Visitors Centre and Entrance, then the train track down to the station at the end.
Last time we only walked the yellow trail along the top of the different cataracts nearest the hotel, so this is an all-new experience for us.
David and I make a slow start on the boardwalk, while Carini goes off to get a wheelchair for me.
The trail is around a mile in each direction, so theoretically I should be able to do it under my own steam. I don't want to completely ruin my already painful knee at this early stage of the trip, however, so the wheelchair is very welcome when it arrives.
Along the way, we cross little islands while turtles and birds rest on rocks jutting out of the river.
Arriving at the end of the boardwalk, there are many people and a kind of one-way roundabout system to relieve congestion. It works very well.
From a distance, the cascade looks impressive, but that is nothing to how overwhelming the view is once you are literally on the precipice of the falls.
Devil's Throat
The horse-shoe-shaped cataract gets its name from an old legend in which an indigenous chief's daughter, named Naipi, was considered so beautiful that she was able to stop the waters of the Iguaçu River. Learning that her father had offered her to the god M'Boy, she escapes across the river in a canoe with her young warrior lover called Tarobá. M'boy was furious, and in retaliation, opened up a huge chasm in the river, turned Naipi into a rock, and Tarobá into a palm tree at the edge of a nearby abyss. It is said that M'boy stands at this spot to guard over the two young lovers to this day.
Devils Throat is made up of 14 separate powerful waterfalls and at 82 metres, has the highest drop of any of the cataracts in the entire waterfall system; and is also the most photographed.
The sheer power of the water tumbling over the edge of the river is mind-blowing, and the spray gets everywhere, as you can see from the video below.
I am forever cleaning my lens!
The image below, taken from a helicopter, shows just how close to the edge of the waterfall that viewing platform is!
The whole experience is totally breathtaking, and I am so mesmerised by the fast-moving water that I don't want to leave!
The time has come to return to Brazil, however, and we head back to the train station, where there are as many coati as there are passengers.
I rename the station Coati Central.
One of them manages to get into the pushchair storage area of the train, making a passenger in our compartment completely freak out.
The same lovely buggy driver takes us back to the entrance area where we grab a quick burger before returning to the border.
Getting out of Argentina is way easier than getting in! The officials on the Brazilian side want to see our Covid Vaccination certificates – we do have hard copies but didn't think to take them with us today. Doh! We can show digital versions on our phones though, which is good enough for the officers. While David goes with Carini to the office, I stay in the car. They come back for me to find my document on my phone, but by the time they get back to the office with my phone, the screen has blanked and the image 'disappeared'. Thankfully David is able to find it again after some searching.
Insect bites
Both David and I seem to have suffered quite a few insect bites since we've been here at Iguaçu.
With David, it is his legs that have been attacked, for me, it is my arms.
The Belmond Tower
I politely decline when David suggests he wants to climb the tower at the hotel, which offers great views over the grounds and the falls beyond. I give him my camera with a fish-eye lens attached and send him on his way.
David gets creative while photographing the staircase, and I apply a creative edit
Sunset
As we are getting ready for dinner, we notice that there is a beautiful sunset this evening.
Dinner
Forgetting that Brazilians eat their evening meal much later than we do in the UK, we arrive at the restaurant at 19:00, only to be told that the à la carte dinner is not served until 19:30. We are offered some nachos while we wait.
Tonight's waitress Ana, is delightful, and we have many laughs. She later comes back to apologise for a joke she told about 'musical condoms', which she feared may have been inappropriate. She obviously does not know our sense of humour.
We order a small pepperoni pizza each, which, when it comes, really is small.
At least it means that we have room for dessert.
David's lemon pie
My meringue with berries - I love the design of the plate!
Ana persuades us to try a glass of dessert wine – she suggests two different ones, so we try one each and swap.
With coffee and liqueurs to follow (Baileys and Cointreau), we are not surprised when the bill for the evening comes to around £200.
Goodnight from Iguaçu and thank you to Undiscovered Destinations for arranging this trip for us.
