Entries about migration

We set off after lunch to see what nature has to offer us here in Ndutu, and hopefully find a wildebeest herd where we can witness a birth.

African Hoopoe

Juvenile Red Billed Buffalo Weaver

Lion

Under a tree we see a magnificent male lion. Initially just resting, he soon sits up surveying the tourists arriving.

Big yawn. And other funny facial expressions.

He licks his chops and walks straight towards us.

Too close for comfort, or at least for photography!

It's only when we drive away that we realise that Dickson (our driver during our first three safaris in Tanzania) and his clients are right behind us.

Two Banded Courser

Eurasian Avocet

"What are you looking at?"

Blacksmith Plover

Wildebeest Migration

Continuing on our way, we drive alongside thousands of wildebeest, running in an (almost) single file.

The line seems to go on forever, then group into a HUGE herd, surrounding us on every side, and they just keep on coming.

More and more and more arrive, a never ending stream of wildebeest join the mêlée, until there is just a sea of horns.

We see very few babies in amongst this crowd though. A few of the females look like they are ready – they are fat, their nipples have developed and they are struggling to walk – but none are just about to drop. Oh well, we'll keep searching.

Zebra

A few zebras have joined the wildebeest, and we see a few babies too. Our hearts stop as we spot what appears to be a dead baby zebra in the grass.

We hold our breath when the mother appears and starts nudging her little foal. Is he alive?

Yes, he is, and he soon runs off with his mother. Phew.

Dung Beetles

So many wildebeest in one place means two things: 1. we are eaten alive by pesky flies, and 2. it is a dung beetle's paradise.

Within a few minutes, large piles of dung are turned into neat little balls and rolled away.

With my love of dung beetles, I am totally in my element here, and before I know it I have taken over a thousand photos of... basically a pile of shit - plus these fascinating insects, of course.

It is now several hours since we last saw any other cars or human activity. This may be the height of the season in Ndutu, but it is still possible to have large areas all to yourself. Most people go back to the lodge for lunch, preferring to stay out of the sun in the midday heat. I can see why, as we are being cooked to perfection even in the shade of the car. I wouldn't want to miss an animal experience though!

Greater Spotted Thick Knee

Light Tawny Eagle

European White Stork

A number of storks return to roost for the night, gliding effortlessly across the savannah.

Not dozens, not hundreds, but thousands! They just keep on coming.

And I just keep on photographing them.

And the wildebeest just keep on walking.

The storks are followed by a large flock of Cattle Egrets.

Even a small chattering of Wattled Starlings join in. (chattering is the collective noun for starlings)

Cheetah

A mum and her two cubs are very active in the late afternoon sun, running around and playing and for the next 30 minutes or so we delight in their antics. The dozen or so photos you will see here, are whittled down from a massive 1200 images – that amounts to around one picture a second!

I have nothing more to say about this encounter, I think the note I made in my journal at the time sums it up!

Much as we'd love to stay and watch these adorable little animals for longer, we really have to go. We are still quite some distance away from the lodge, and have to be back by 19:00.

Sunset

As we approach Lake Ndutu, I gasp. I don't think I have ever seen such a spectacular sunset here in Tanzania before.

I make poor Malisa stop time after time as a new vista comes into view.

Thankfully sunsets are over rather rapidly this close to the Equator, and we can continue on our way back to the lodge as originally planned.

Until we get to the Marsh.

The light is really poor now, too dark for photography, so I don't feel bad that we don't stop long.

We do, however, stop to help out this vehicle which is well and truly bogged down.

Not sure I'd like to be out of the vehicle this close to two lions.

And they're out!

Having to rush along the basic tracks that make up Ndutu's 'road system', we dislodge an enormous amount of dust. It seems almost incongruous that a few days ago there was heavy rain and every track was a mud bath.

Ndutu Lodge

We finally make it back to the lodge by 19:30, and after a quick shower and change we are the last to dinner. Again.

Apple, feta and walnut stack with home made dressing

Somehow I forget to take a photo of the main course, which was lamb tagine with couscous, green beans and courgettes. I do, however, snap a picture of a large moth enjoying what's left on David's plate.

A very tasty Malva Pudding for dessert

The excellent arrangements for this safari was made by Calabash Adventures, the best safari company by far.

We stop somewhere suitable to have our picnic breakfast. It is always nice to be able to get out of the car and stretch our legs – we spend over twelve hours each day cooped up inside the car.

Of course, we can't just stop and get out anywhere, this is, after all, an area full of dangerous wild animals. Malisa chooses his spot carefully, and although he takes every precaution to keep us safe, I think part of the excitement is that you never know...

Thankfully we can stand up and walk about within the car, with it being just the two of us in the back.

From the front seat we have everything we need within reach: camera, camcorder, binoculars, notebook and chargers.

Big Bertha lives on the back seat when not in use.

But when I need her, she has her own bean bag to rest on at the roof bars. Perfect!

Black Shouldered Kite

Yellow Necked Spurfowl

White Browed Coucal

Crowned Lapwing

The Great Migration

Although Ndutu and surrounding areas are considered to be the start of the migration (as this is where the babies are born), the migration is in fact a never ending trek driven by the rains and available fresh grass. The location of the enormous herds are rarely ever the same each year in terms of precise timing and direction, as local conditions influence grass growth, but we have been very lucky on this trip to see so many of them.

Although previous trips have involved areas where the migration herds have been present in large numbers, they have always been fairly spread out, grazing peacefully. Here we are seeing them walking in a single file or 2-3 abreast on slightly wider paths, always on the move. The fabled migration consists in excess of three million wildebeest, several hundred thousand zebra and a few hangers on such as gazelles and eland. Over the course of the year, they move from where we are now to the north of Tanzania and into Kenya, then back to this area again for more babies to be born - a journey of some 500+ kilometres.

This is just how you see them in wildlife programmes on TV, and I feel so incredibly honoured to be here witnessing this.

Cattle Egrets

As always, when a great number of wildebeest are present, so are the egrets, who feed on the small insects that make the fur of the animals their home.

Helping fellow game watchers

Another day, another car stuck in the mud. This time it is Leopard Tours, Tanzania's biggest safari operators. While the vast majority of their drivers are excellent, a few are not quite so well liked, which has given them a bit of a reputation in the industry.

Other drivers still help out, of course, even if it is just for the sake of the clients.

Here they go!

Cheetah

Tucked into some undergrowth, we see a cheetah mum and her seven moths old youngster.

Many cars gather around the sighting, and soon the two cats are on the move.

They are heading for the shade and safety of the tall grasses again.

We all follow, of course, keeping a respectful distance from the wild animals. Except one vehicle, whose driver seemed to think that the animals are here for his clients' entertainment and is not happy that the cats want some peace and shade. He heads straight for them inside the undergrowth, driving them out into the open.

We are all absolutely shocked and horrified – we have never seen such totally unacceptable behaviour in Tanzania before.

I am sure the cheetah are not impressed either, and they head for another similar place to hide.

Lo and behold, the rogue driver does it again! I am speechless at his sheer ignorance and attitude! His clients must be equally obtuse and insensitive to allow him to do it, or perhaps they are just plain selfish! Looking into the car, it even looks like one of his passengers is asleep. It am totally aghast by this abhorrent behaviour and vow to report him! Not that I want him to lose his job, but he certainly needs educating!

In the distance we see a lion, and the cheetah mum has spotted him too and they disappear completely into the grasses. Thankfully the offending driver decides to move off now, as do we.

Lion

This guy is certainly on a mission as he strides across the savannah.

Much to Malisa's surprise, he just keeps on walking, walking, and walking. We follow – at a respectful distance, of course. You can see he is feeling the heat of the midday sun.

It is very unusual to see a lion walking like this in the middle of the day. I wonder if he has a female somewhere or perhaps he is heading for the wildebeest we saw earlier.

If you look closely, you can see he is collared. A few of the cats are, just for rangers and researchers to keep a track on their movement.

We finally figure it out – he is heading for the one and only tree for miles around, where he tries to find a shady spot for his afternoon siesta.

We have been following him for forty minutes now as he strolled across the grassy flats, and it is obvious that he is suffering badly from the heat and exhaustion – his panting sounds like a steam train!

That moment when you look into his eyes and swear you can see the soul of the beast!

Wildebeest

We head for a large group of wildebeests in the distance, hoping to find the maternity ward, only to discover it is a bachelor herd.

We see plenty of Cattle Egrets, however.

Hyena

Thomson's Gazelle

Cape Hare

Lunch
We find a suitable tree to have our picnic under as usual.

A little too late we discover the tree is full of ants, which are 'dripping' onto David. And there were we just thinking he was being fussy when he claims the “coffee tastes like ants' piss”.

On that note I shall close this blog off. Once again, thank you Calabash Adventures for all the arrangements.

The day does not start well. I have a dreadful night, wheezing and squeaking, and constantly waking up in a panic thinking I can't breathe. This is too much like our trip here in 2017, when I was suffering from pneumonia, and I feel very concerned this morning.

Trying to get out of bed, I drop my mobile phone on the floor, and it lands on the charging lead, which promptly bends. Thankfully I always carry a spare, but when I get that out of my bag, I discover that I have picked up a wrong cable and it doesn't fit! Doh!

Finally making it to the bathroom, I find the toilet full of excrement and blocked. In his sleepy state, David flushed the toilet during his night time visit, but didn't hang around to ensure the flush worked – which obviously it hadn't.

Bleary eyed, I look in the mirror. Last night as I got back to the room, my lips felt sore, and this morning I wake up to a large blister on my bottom lip. I suffer from photo-sensitive dermatitis, and am quite freaked out by this – last time I sun-burnt my lips, I ended up with a secondary infection and three lots of antibiotics. I do not want a repeat of that, so I cover the blister with a couple of Compeed cold sore plasters. They are great for helping to heal cold sores as well as keeping dust out of the wounds and make the sores almost invisible.

As we open the front door, we see that the safari has come to us this morning, in the form of a herd of impala right outside the room.

We have the last room in a row of 12, so we look out onto the bush. I do love this place.

As we walk to the restaurant, we also see some birds along the path. I particularly requested to stay here at Ndutu Lodge for this safari, partly because the grounds usually attract a number of feathered friends to its lovely bird bath near the restaurant. Unfortunately, as a result of the recent heavy rains, the bird bath is completely overgrown and even if there were birds in it you wouldn't be able to see them!

Superb Starling

Fischer's Lovebird

I'm sure there's a bird bath in there somewhere!

With Malisa getting back so late last night from his adventures stuck in the mud, we suggested he slept in this morning. We are therefore having breakfast in the lodge before heading out today – an absolute rarity for us.

We finally leave around 08:00 to “see what nature has to offer us today” as Malisa likes to say.

Red Necked Spurfowl

Elephant

We notice that this guy only has one short tusk. Not sure what happened but he could have damaged them while trying to bring down a tree.

We thought we were in trouble yesterday getting stuck, but this water tanker really is well and truly bogged down. It will take quite some effort to get that out again!

Hippo

It is unusual – and always exciting – to see hippo out of the water. This guy is going for a little stroll in the shallows.

It looks like he is going for a roll!

Ruff

Red Bishop

The Great Migration

The annual movement of wildebeest and other grazing herbivores across the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem is one of the greatest spectacles in the natural world.

Today we watch the wildebeest – and a few zebra - running and jumping, then turning back the way they came from, fickle creatures that they are.

A few zebra join them

Maternity Ward

We head for the lakeside where a lot of expectant mothers are gathered, plus a few with newborn babies. Again we are hoping to witness a birth.

Looking at the way this young lady is lying down and the shape of her rear, we feel sure she is going to drop a baby any minute, and we spend the next fifteen minutes or so watching her stand up, sit down, walk a few steps, then sit down again. Is she going to give birth?

No such luck. We do see a number discarded placentas around though, but we seem to be either too early or too late to witness the birth itself. We do see a couple of wildebeest sparring, however.

Crowned Lapwing

A pair of Lilac Breasted Rollers

The wildebeest all start moving en masse towards the water, and soon they are crossing the shallow lake, one by one in a single file.

First it is just adults, then the odd youngster appears too.

There is a gap in proceedings, which the zebras take advantage of. They are much more nervous than the wildebeest.

The second wave of wildebeest cross in a slightly different place, where the water is considerably deeper. There is a lot of jumping and splashing going on.

We worry for the youngsters, as they can barely hold their heads above water.

We move along the shore a little to get a different view of the animals as they cross.

As soon as we see this little baby set off across the lake, we hold our breath – the water is way too deep for him.

Thankfully mum realises the dangers and turns around.

Flamingos

More and more birds arrive at the lake.

It's a miracle that they don't collide when they land!

It looks like we missed a birth over at the Maternity Ward – this baby is just a few minutes old, and mum still has the afterbirth attached.

And a slightly older one – maybe one or two days.

He still doesn't look too steady on his feet.

Another new-born, still wet with and the afterbirth still attached to the mother.

We move on to have out picnic breakfast and to see what else nature has to offer us. Stay tuned.

Thank you Calabash Adventures for arranging this amazing safari for us.

We go down to the lounge area early this morning to grab a coffee and check out the internet before we set off for the day; only to find the man with the key to the reception isn't there yet, so no internet.

Moonlight over Ndutu Lodge

Lions

Our 'breakfast' this morning (Malisa's expression for the first sighting of the day), is a male lion purposefully striding through the undergrowth quite near to the lodge.

He is taking a great interest in a couple of men working down by the lake.

Each lodge in the area have their own borehole at the edge of the lake, and fill their water tankers from there to take back to the lodges.

We are joined by another couple of vehicles.

Even more safari vehicles arrive

The lion disappears out of sight into the bushes.

But there's another one!

From behind us a third lion appears, walking right by the side of the car.

He disappears too, but we hang around for a bit watching the flamingos on Lake Ndutu.

Suddenly someone notices that one of the lions has climbed a tree, so we set off, literally driving through the dense thicket to get nearer.

After a while of being settled on the branch, he starts to fidget. Is he going to jump down?

No, he is just rearranging himself.

Meanwhile, I am distracted by a Beautiful Sunbird.

This time our lion is definitely on the move.

He does not look overly confident here.

“Should I go this way?”

“Hmm, maybe not...”

Here we go!

He soon disappears into the bushes, probably looking for a female on heat. We continue on our way, “to see what nature has to offer us” as Malisa would say.

Jacobin Cuckoo

Southern Red Bishop

Lesser Flamingos

Marsh Sandpiper

Kitlitz' Plover

Lots of them flying

Crowned Lapwing

Mud

In a low-lying marshy area, we see a car stuck in the mud. A lot of helpers are milling around, assisting in towing the vehicle out.

Fearful of suffering the same fate, Malisa drives across at great speed. It works, we are fine.

Southern Red Bishop

Usually very timid, this small bird surprises us by staying put on his perch as we pull up alongside him. It's not until another car drives past that he flies off.

Greater Spotted Thick Knee

Wattled Starlings

Marabou Stork

This baby wildebeest didn't make it

Secretary Bird

Steppe Eagle

Eurasian Roller

White Backed Vulture

Spotted Hyena

The Great Migration

We've seen the migration on our previous visits, including being right in the middle of huge herds of animals in Togoro; plus we have been lucky enough to witness the wildebeest and zebra cross the mighty Mara River in the far north of the country; but never before have we seen it like it is here: one single line. This is how I have always imagined the migration to look like. The reason they walk behind each other in this way, is a scent emitted from the hooves of the animals at the front, which leads other to follow in exactly the same pathway.

This tiny little baby struggles to keep up with mum; he's two hours old at the most.

There are a few more youngsters today than there were yesterday. The whole idea of coming this time of year was to see the babies, and hopefully even a birth.

We stop to have our breakfast in the car this morning, as there is a cold wind out. More to follow in the next blog entry.

Thank you Calabash Adventures forarranging this safari.

It's late afternoon as we leave Serengeti National park behind and head for pastures new, with five nights in the Ndutu region of Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

There are just as many zebras here as there were the other side of the park border. Of course the animals don't have to check in and out of the parks as we do, and there are no physical borders.

Wattled Starling

A tree by the side of the road is alive with these colourful and impressive-looking birds.

They get their name from the long wattles found on the throat of breeding male birds, who also display unfeathered yellow skin and a black forehead (the rest of the year they are a dull grey)

Female

Jackson's Chameleon

Without warning, Malisa comes to a screeching halt on the apparently empty road. Except it is not so empty. Malisa's eyes never cease to amaze me – he has spotted a chameleon crossing the road!

They are seriously bizarre in the way they walk.

Having safely crossed the road, our little friend disappears up the bank and into the undergrowth. What an exciting sighting!

European White Stork, a seasonal migrant

The dark line you see just before the horizon is thousands upon thousands of zebra and wildebeest making their annual migration through the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem. Some 3-4 million animals in total are part of this spectacle.

Lions

Also watching this amazing phenomenon is a pride of seven lions, but not for the same reasons as us: they see it as a line-up of prospective lunch choices.

Although this one seems to be watching us.

Wildebeest

We soon find ourselves in the midst of the hoofed melee, surrounded by wildebeest on all sides.

There are a few zebra amongst them too, but nowhere near the numbers we saw just a little bit further north in Serengeti.

At this time of the year, the plains of Ndutu are descended on by what is known as the 'Great Migration', and the animals are here to give birth to their babies before continuing on their never-ending quest for greener pastures. It is in the hope of seeing the young animals or even babies being born that we have chosen to come here now; we are therefore a little disappointed to see that there do not appear to be any little ones around, at least not in this herd.

We finally see this one single youngster in amongst all the adults.

He's full of life as he explores his new world.

At just a couple of days old, he doesn't know what to make of this egret.

“I think I'll go back to mum.”

Mum, meanwhile, has a non-fare-paying passenger in the form of a wattled starling.

The fare-dodger is soon evicted, however.

Cheetah

In he distance we see a few cars gathered and go off to investigate.

Initially we can't see what they are all looking at, but then we spot a little head in the long grass.

There is a mum and two young cubs, somewhere in the region of 5-7 months old, and they have a kill that they are feeding on. Their dinner, however, it completely overrun with flies!

Mum tries to move the carcass, but it proves too heavy for her.

Having had enough to eat, they all join together and roll in the grass in an attempt to rid themselves of those pesky flies.

It's getting late and we need to be at the lodge before dark; and as we don't know what we might see on the way to delay us, Malisa wants to get going.

Great White Egrets and Abdim Storks

We are not the only ones heading for home – a great number of egrets and storks fly low on the way to their roosting sites for the night.

Road Block

More and more ungulates are joining the migration this point, with the road being blocked in several places by wildebeest and zebra.

Uh uh. It looks like there may be a road block of a different kind here; I hope we can manage to get through the puddles.

The cars in front of us have made it, so we should be OK. It probably looks worse than it actually is.

We're through!

Great White Egrets
As we cross the narrow strip of land between Lake Masek and Lake Ndutu, we see hundreds and hundreds of egrets fly low over the water as they are coming home to roost. The light is gorgeous with the setting sun giving the whole scene a warm, yellow glow.

It's a spectacular sight, and we stay as long as we can before having to make the journey to the lodge for the night.

Ndutu Lodge

This is the third time we have stayed here at Ndutu Lodge, and as yet we've never arrived early enough to be able to have the time to sit around the camp fire before dinner.

Today is no different. By the time we have a shower and change, we are the last to arrive in the restaurant. The food here has always been excellent, but as they are under new management, we are a little concerned that this may have changed. We needn't have worried, it every bit as good as it always was.

Another good thing about Ndutu Lodge which hasn't changed, is that they serve Savanna Cider.

Mini tomato tart

Chicken curry with coconut and banana, mango chutney, rice and poppadum; with vegetables on the side

Chocolate mousse

Thank you so much to Calabash Adventures for arranging this trip.